control arm bushing replacement advice
#1
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 16
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From: Albuquerque, NM
Year: 19i92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
control arm bushing replacement advice
'92 Cherokee Laredo 4.0 HO 5spd 4wd totally stock. 99% street driven.
At 170K replaced linkage & track bar 2nd time. Toe in= 1/16" only THEN I develop DW???? My reguler Mech (not a Jeep specalist)suggested I had tightened up some of the front end and now there was something else reacting to that.
So, I've ordered new CA bushing kit from Quadratec. I'm wondering if there is anything I need to be aware of in changing them--like will the axle try to rotate or something. I plan to change them 1 at a time with Jeep on jack stands.
Would like some experienced advice to avoid hassles.
At 170K replaced linkage & track bar 2nd time. Toe in= 1/16" only THEN I develop DW???? My reguler Mech (not a Jeep specalist)suggested I had tightened up some of the front end and now there was something else reacting to that.
So, I've ordered new CA bushing kit from Quadratec. I'm wondering if there is anything I need to be aware of in changing them--like will the axle try to rotate or something. I plan to change them 1 at a time with Jeep on jack stands.
Would like some experienced advice to avoid hassles.
#2
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,142
Likes: 2
From: Grand Prairie, Texas
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO I6
So long as you do them one at a time, the axle shouldn't rotate too much. It's not difficult to get it back in line with a ratchet strap (go to sway bar to rotate forwards, and trans crossmember to rotate toward the back). You will most likely need a ball joint press, so be prepared to have one or hit up Autozone or Oreilly's to rent one from them. You can get them out without one but it requires drilling holes through the rubber until you can knock it out then bending the metal sleeve until it comes out of the mount. Put the new bushings in the freezer overnight untill right before you are ready to pop them in - this should make it pretty easy to pop them in and seat them with just a mini sledge.
#4
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,142
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From: Grand Prairie, Texas
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO I6
#5
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Newbie
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 16
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From: Albuquerque, NM
Year: 19i92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
My bad. I thought you were referring to pressing the bushings out of the arms. I don't have rust issues; do you think I'll still need that tool to get them out of the jeep?
#6
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 12,367
Likes: 23
From: Oroville, CA
Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
Complete arms are more cost effective and a simple bolt on. It's such a hassle to press the bushings in and out without damaging the flimsy stock arms.
#7
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 5,818
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From: In the middle of Minnesota!
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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#8
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Newbie
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 16
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From: Albuquerque, NM
Year: 19i92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
I wish I'd heard this before I ordered the bushings. I guess if it turns out to be a problem I'll have to get complete CA; I was waffling on that anyway. My rear springs have been back ordered so this project will end up getting done in stages anyway unless I have the originals re-arched locally. Any more advice?
#10
Another option is to replace just the rubber bushing material. I went through this same decision making process about 4 months ago. I opted to replace all the bushing with an energy suspension kit. The removal of the old worn out OEM bushings was as simple as heating them up a little with a map gas torch and pushing out the old rubber. I've heard horror stories about how bad these bushings can be but, I didn't have that sort of experience and I did everything front and rear shocks, springs, bushings.
It probably didn't hurt that my jeep lived it's whole life in the desert so, rust wasn't really a factor.
just my .02
It probably didn't hurt that my jeep lived it's whole life in the desert so, rust wasn't really a factor.
just my .02
#11
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 16
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From: Albuquerque, NM
Year: 19i92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
I am appreciating all the POVs on this. Current plan since the CA bushings are already en-route is to try and press new ones into the old CA. If the CAs distort I will order complete new arms. I'm also replacing all the springs/bushings. I've already replaced all the linkage and track bar and bushed the bracket. The hubs were replaced about 20K ago and the shocks about 7-8K ago. All street driving since; total mileage approaching 170K. I can find no play in the ball joints. Tires are street tread Cooper 235s @ 50-60%. Bushings should arrive today. Any new insights?
#13
What of the top bushing by the diff pumpkin, it stays on that mount and not in the arm.
Best technique to replace that sucker ?
on a side note: I had a 97 ZJ and we tried replacing the CAs while it was up on a lift what a *****. Also adding to the problem was the new arms were 1/4+ shorter than the stock ones I left em out and returned those
Best technique to replace that sucker ?
on a side note: I had a 97 ZJ and we tried replacing the CAs while it was up on a lift what a *****. Also adding to the problem was the new arms were 1/4+ shorter than the stock ones I left em out and returned those
#14
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Newbie
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 16
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From: Albuquerque, NM
Year: 19i92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
still DW
At this point I have replaced all linkage; track bar & bushed hole; front & rear springs; front shocks and all control arms then had it aligned--still have DW. Today it's back in the alignment shop for them to assess what got missed.