Well ever since i opened the radiator cap yesterday (was cold engine) when checking my fluids I now have a leak of coolant coming from seems like the lower radiator hose. Starts as just a slow build up when engine is turned on, then slow steady drops while engine is up to temp and running. When I shut it off then it drips pretty good and stops after about 10 mins after shutdown. From what I was able to witness during start up it happens where the hose comes in contact with another hose that's next to it. Sorry for crap picture kind of hard to get a shot of it and hold a big maglite at the same time.

Survey say....? Just replace the lower hose? Do I have to drain coolant from the system to do it, or just undo the clamps, let some spill into a bucket and reinstall and top off?

 

Sorry need to rotate picture should look like this when head is user the jeep

What's that other hose anyways? It's a metal line then connects to a rubber hose. Maybe that's leaking?

 

Climb under there check weep hole on water pump.

 

No idea where to look for the weep hole. I know what the water pump looks like but I'm clueless to where exactly to look for the hole or anything

 

What is the hose line that is running next to the lower radiator hose? Is that the transmission cooling line? Maybe that's what's worn and is leaking?

 

Behind the pulley on the bottom of the water pump.

 

To answer your question, if you take your lower radiator hose off, all your coolant will drain. So get enough coolant for the whole system when you go to do the job

 

Look for coolant trail coming from this general area running down hose.

 

Looks like a power steering hose. I'd wipe all that oil and crud off so you can see what's actually leaking. If your lower radiator hose is rubbing on that metal crimp on the PS line though, look there first for leaks.

 

Tranny line.

 

Not to disagree with any of the advice above. I'd grab a can of degreaser. Hit it right there in the Wall-Mart parking lot. Drive to the car wash. Leave it running. Stay away from the manifolds, and the distributor. (if you have one).

You could have sprayed the bottom of the hood and allot of other areas. The sides of the engine and and trans for instance.

Funky cloths and some glasses, might seem handy if you didn't already think of that.

The point being, no harm in cleaning anything, and it's much less grungy to mess with anything that just got pressure washed.

Don't blast high pressure at any seals or gaskets. You might push crud IN!

 

Yeah from what I can tell the coolant starts to drip from where the lower hose is rubbing against the other hoses fitting. Everything is coated in gunk and oil big time. Gonna need some serious degreasing. No obvious leaks from the water pump at all.

 

About any job is a whole lot more, shall I say "pleasant", if the majority of the heavy , greasy gunk is gone.

Two little screws removes the E-Fan. The air cleaner takes a little longer. While you are there check that your left engine mount is centered.

You could even check your manifold bolts while the air box is off.

I'd clean it well and be sure I knew which waz leaking where. Sometimes you don't even leave the car wash. Once oil blows around you can't tell where it came from. Coolant is easier. As mentioned, watch that weep hole on the bottom of the water pump. It will leak there when that seal goes. Sometimes that leaves a streak or deposits.

If you do, do that cleaning, pay close attention to the oil filter adapter. The O rings there harden, then it leaks and blows back and drips off the bell-housing. A good mechanic might tell you it's your rear main seal leaking. (the crummy O rings are "our secret")


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Vacuum leaks suck. I go around with short little shots of starting fluid, if you hit one the sound of the engine will change. Small little shots! You don't want that stuff to accumulate. It's a fire hazard, but It evaporates right away. Also with a tube, or a section of hose you can listen for it. Don't forget the lower O rings on the injectors need to seal as well. (uppers would leak fuel).
The manifold bolts have a habit of loosening, especially that rear one. On anything like that you never want to tighten only one. It can warp/bend, even crack things. If I found that any that where easy to reach where loose, I'd pull the air cleaner and tighten them all, starting in the middle and working out towards the ends. I go over about three times. It's a bear of a spot to get a torque wrench on them all. Just don't ape on it. If its firm and not turning, no point in going on to break it, a REAL *****. The rearmost bolt underneath takes a little doing, but it can be done with the right extension. For that very back one by the firewall I use way long extensions (18"), with a swivel at the socket. Anyway, that's a good thing to check on any old Jeep. ALSO, there is a large line coming off the intake, rear of the TB that goes back to the firewall, across, then forward down to the vacuum ball behind your right front bumper. You can pinch that off or unplug it and cap the nipple to test if you have a leak there.

 

Every time I crawl under the jeep or go into the engine bay I'm surprised this thing even drives still. I e go so many wires that have been cut. No idea what they are for. Or lines broken, or stuff covered in oil because the PO never used a valve cover gasket. It's turning into one big headache. This $800 jeep has cost me probably $2500 by now.

 

Once you get everthing straightend out its well worth it...