Coolant Temp Sender Location?
#16
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Year: 1996 & 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
I am more confused than ever I have a 96 and a 99 and each has the pcm sensor at the front and the gauge one at the rear the sensor you show hanging down where did the factory put that originally
#17
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OutbackOz (10-08-2022)
#18
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Year: 96
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I have '96, and (from memory) they have 2 sensors. one at rear, one in the thermo housing
I have found from past experience on another vehicle that a tee for coolant temp is unsatisfactory, as it will not read the coolant temp accurately
If I was you, I would drill and tap the themo housing for a second sender if that is possible, as the thermo housing is a cheap part to replace if you screw up
I have found from past experience on another vehicle that a tee for coolant temp is unsatisfactory, as it will not read the coolant temp accurately
If I was you, I would drill and tap the themo housing for a second sender if that is possible, as the thermo housing is a cheap part to replace if you screw up
#19
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AWG, you are probably right. I was thinking about what cruiser54 said, "Use a tee that guarantees that the tip of the sender is well submerged into the path of the coolant."
I am having a hard time thinking about how to make that happen with a "T" coupling on the thermostat housing. I have a banged up spare thermostat housing that I can get out for a test dummy to see if I can get another hole drilled in without interfering with the others!
Thanks for that post!
I am having a hard time thinking about how to make that happen with a "T" coupling on the thermostat housing. I have a banged up spare thermostat housing that I can get out for a test dummy to see if I can get another hole drilled in without interfering with the others!
Thanks for that post!
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Year: 96
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
The best way would be to use the correct spot, and I know you said you had already broken an Allen key, but I have found a trick with stuck dissimilar metals is give them repeated heat/cool cycles. so I would use a butane torch to hit the plug, and let it cool down, do that quite a few times then try again. You can use penetrant to cool
If you can get an impact gun on it, that will also increase the chance of success
If you can get an impact gun on it, that will also increase the chance of success
#23
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The best way would be to use the correct spot, and I know you said you had already broken an Allen key, but I have found a trick with stuck dissimilar metals is give them repeated heat/cool cycles. so I would use a butane torch to hit the plug, and let it cool down, do that quite a few times then try again. You can use penetrant to cool
If you can get an impact gun on it, that will also increase the chance of success
If you can get an impact gun on it, that will also increase the chance of success
#24
Senior Member
First picture in post #7, showing the thermostat housing and the crank pulley. Between the top-most mounting bolt on the left of the image and the sensor on the right, directly below the heater hose outlet is a large enough flat spot to drill and tap for the gauge sensor.
Last edited by Jim Malcolm; 10-08-2022 at 10:16 AM.
#25
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First picture in post #7, showing the thermostat housing and the crank pulley. Between the top-most mounting bolt on the left of the image and the sensor on the right, directly below the heater hose outlet is a large enough flat spot to drill and tap for the gauge sensor.
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