Cooling woes-180 Tstat vs MPG- anyone noticed the difference?
#1
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Cooling woes-180 Tstat vs MPG- anyone noticed the difference?
Hi to all,
While pulling my trailer down the hwy yesterday (might have had it a little too overloaded), the temp gauge was alomst to red. I slowed down, turned on the A/C, but moved the temp to hot (so the fan would run and water would run through the heater core). I finally got it cooled down after about 2 miles, but it was still above 210*.
I picked up a 180* thermostat this morning at O'reillys, and will put it in on my lunch break. My question is: do you think I'll lose any MPG out of running a cooler thermostat? The computer will change the schomectric ratio (14.7:1) by making the injector pulse duration longer- resulting in poor MPG. (Because it is trying to get the engine to warm up, thinking its cold). Some hot rodders run 160* t-stats just for this purpose. I on the other hand am a cheap bastard, and hate giving my hard earned money to dirty oil shieks- it's the whole reason why I'm pulling with the Cherokee vs. my one ton.
I wonder if there's a way to get a bigger radiator in there? Maybe cut out the lower section of the core support, in an effort to allow a bigger tank?
What about adding an oil cooler hooked up to the oil filter adapter? I've thought about this, but not sure if the oil pump is up for the added volume it would have to move.
While pulling my trailer down the hwy yesterday (might have had it a little too overloaded), the temp gauge was alomst to red. I slowed down, turned on the A/C, but moved the temp to hot (so the fan would run and water would run through the heater core). I finally got it cooled down after about 2 miles, but it was still above 210*.
I picked up a 180* thermostat this morning at O'reillys, and will put it in on my lunch break. My question is: do you think I'll lose any MPG out of running a cooler thermostat? The computer will change the schomectric ratio (14.7:1) by making the injector pulse duration longer- resulting in poor MPG. (Because it is trying to get the engine to warm up, thinking its cold). Some hot rodders run 160* t-stats just for this purpose. I on the other hand am a cheap bastard, and hate giving my hard earned money to dirty oil shieks- it's the whole reason why I'm pulling with the Cherokee vs. my one ton.
I wonder if there's a way to get a bigger radiator in there? Maybe cut out the lower section of the core support, in an effort to allow a bigger tank?
What about adding an oil cooler hooked up to the oil filter adapter? I've thought about this, but not sure if the oil pump is up for the added volume it would have to move.
#2
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Year: 1992, 2- 1998 (All 3, 4 Doors)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L in all
I got a 180 in my '98 just to be safe that it won't overheat, and it actually helped my MPG on that one a bit (I haven't tried one on the '92 yet), but the main point is I don't get even close to 210*, everything stays right around the 185-195* mark. Then again that XJ of mine is infamous for eating O2 sensors and has a temperamental MAP sensor. You will notice more power out of the engine due to cooler engines make more power.
And you can get a bigger radiator in there, I know there are a few companies that make performance replacement ones for the XJ that just bolt in, and I was poking around for mine, and Griffin makes a performance aluminum radiator for them.
If you want the oil cooler, the stock pump should handle it, due to the fact you're just gonna have more oil in the cooler and the lines, other than that, the flow shouldn't be an issue. Just make sure you keep track of what the new oil change refill quantity is.
And you can get a bigger radiator in there, I know there are a few companies that make performance replacement ones for the XJ that just bolt in, and I was poking around for mine, and Griffin makes a performance aluminum radiator for them.
If you want the oil cooler, the stock pump should handle it, due to the fact you're just gonna have more oil in the cooler and the lines, other than that, the flow shouldn't be an issue. Just make sure you keep track of what the new oil change refill quantity is.
#3
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Year: 1991
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Engine: 4.0 I6
If you are going to be towing what you need is a nice 3 row radiator..CFS makes some nice all metal 3 rows and can be had for a good price at dpgoffroad.com
Just swapping in the 180 t-stat in my opinion is a band aid patch not a fix. Address the cooling issues first.
Just swapping in the 180 t-stat in my opinion is a band aid patch not a fix. Address the cooling issues first.
Last edited by okcjeeper; 01-23-2009 at 09:32 AM.
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter RENIX I-6, DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5 FM Exhaust, 3 Core Radiator
I'm running a 180 degree T-stat and even with a front locker I'm getting 18mpg on the highway. There is a great 3 core radiator from CFS Radiator that drops and bolts right in place of your POS stocker. I have one and I LOVE IT!!!
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Year: 1991
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here's a link to the CFS 3 row for a decent price.. Also great company to deal with..
http://www.dpgoff-road.com/site/radiators.htm
http://www.dpgoff-road.com/site/radiators.htm
#6
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Thanks so much for the help ya'll.
I never really even thought that someone would make a radiator with a larger core section. Great idea. Hopefully I didn't damage the head gasket. I just put that engine in!
Thanks again for the help.
I never really even thought that someone would make a radiator with a larger core section. Great idea. Hopefully I didn't damage the head gasket. I just put that engine in!
Thanks again for the help.
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#10
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My Jeep runs cool just running down the road- it's when pulling the trailer that it begins to run hot. Trailer itsself weighs 2K, and I probably had about 800-1,000 lbs worth of vegetable oil/ misc biodiesel supplies on it last night.
Also, I'm running an AX-15, so the auto tranny cooler is kinda null and void. That poor little AX...it doesn't like that trailer- you should hear the sounds it makes in 1st-3rd! At 200,000- it's been overhauled once, but may need another shop visit soon.
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Year: 1996
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Engine: 4.0L
x3 on the CFS 3 core radiator. I love mine. I was still having overheating, though, just after replacing it and the water pump, so I tried a 180 stat and found that it was just a band aid. It would still eventually overheat at long idles. Replaced the fan clutch and put back 195 stat and it never goes over 210 no matter what. I think the fan clutch is often overlooked because it gives no obvious sign that it's not doing its job.
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