Corroseal / Krud Kutter Rust Converter??
#1
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Corroseal / Krud Kutter Rust Converter??
Whatsup guys, any of you have experience with this stuff?
they claim that it converts the rust to iron phosphate. is that what por-15 does? i havent read anything on por-15's website saying that it converts the rust. just how it seals the rust keeping it away from oxygen and moisture. which should work if you properly prep and coat the surface, then paint over with a couple coats of primer, then paint or bed liner.
corroseal and krud kutter costs a lot less than por-15 as well which really appeals to me, and it will also seal if you prime after and such. so trying it wouldnt hurt?
heres both products on home depot. http://www.homedepot.com/s/rust+converter?NCNI-5
they claim that it converts the rust to iron phosphate. is that what por-15 does? i havent read anything on por-15's website saying that it converts the rust. just how it seals the rust keeping it away from oxygen and moisture. which should work if you properly prep and coat the surface, then paint over with a couple coats of primer, then paint or bed liner.
corroseal and krud kutter costs a lot less than por-15 as well which really appeals to me, and it will also seal if you prime after and such. so trying it wouldnt hurt?
heres both products on home depot. http://www.homedepot.com/s/rust+converter?NCNI-5
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Nope, POR-15 and other encapsulators do not work like that. Those products typically contain hydrochloric or phosphoric acid. Certain toilet bowl cleaners work, too lol
Of course the issue is that light applications only work lightly. I've used a few products that seem to do a great job, but once I've gone over the area again with a wire wheel the rust is still hiding underneath. Gotta pretty thoroughly soak 'em.
Of course the issue is that light applications only work lightly. I've used a few products that seem to do a great job, but once I've gone over the area again with a wire wheel the rust is still hiding underneath. Gotta pretty thoroughly soak 'em.
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but was that with products like por-15? or the stuff im looking into? because if you use rust converter that says it converts like corroseal, and you wirebrushed only to find the original rust. than that stuff doesnt actually work, and just covers the rust like por-15
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No lol, you don't follow. Stuff like POR-15 bonds to the rust and SEALS it. Rust converters react with iron oxide and the chemical reaction turns it into another material. With acids you have to use a lot to get good penetration.
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This is probably something you don't want to cheap out on and do it right the first time.. I've used POR-15 in a resto project and was happy with the results, had done multiple shop tests and was satisfied. It's not to friendly with skin though stood the test of time..
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without knowing if you soaked and penetrated enough sucks. i feel that the best way to treat the rust is to just wirebrush as much as i can first unless i reach bare metal THEN put a few or so good layers of rust converter on, then seal
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This is probably something you don't want to cheap out on and do it right the first time.. I've used POR-15 in a resto project and was happy with the results, had done multiple shop tests and was satisfied. It's not to friendly with skin though stood the test of time..
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Check out Chassis Saver by Magnet Paints. It's similar to POR-15 but cheaper. I've used it with pretty sweet success on some rusty floor sections of my girlfriend's car.
The particular kind I used was the silver aluminum kind. The aluminum inside it is supposed to help fill rust pits. I've used this by wire-wheeling rust best I could, and cleaning it with mild soap and water and when dry, brush on the CS. You'll never have to worry about rust in that particular area again.
Not the best pic but we did put a new floor patch in here and used the CS on the rusty spots on the cross-brace for the seat, and also on bare steel around the edges and other spots. Works great!
The particular kind I used was the silver aluminum kind. The aluminum inside it is supposed to help fill rust pits. I've used this by wire-wheeling rust best I could, and cleaning it with mild soap and water and when dry, brush on the CS. You'll never have to worry about rust in that particular area again.
Not the best pic but we did put a new floor patch in here and used the CS on the rusty spots on the cross-brace for the seat, and also on bare steel around the edges and other spots. Works great!
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now im looking at eastwoods rust encapsulator.. any thoughts?
http://www.eastwood.com/rust-encapsulator-28601.html
http://www.eastwood.com/rust-encapsulator-28601.html
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I used the Metal Prep by POR15 folks prior to the rust coating... It is rather thin and seems to seap down into the rusty areas real well... The zinc coating works great with the por15 over top of it... The stuff I painted this way (on boat trailer) have been outside every day for the past 12 years and still is rust free... I never even put a top coat of paint over it...
http://www.por15.com/PREP-READY-_p_15.html
Edit: I called it by the wrong name, it's Prep and Ready, not Metal Prep...
http://www.por15.com/PREP-READY-_p_15.html
Edit: I called it by the wrong name, it's Prep and Ready, not Metal Prep...
Last edited by EdZ; 11-25-2013 at 12:48 AM.
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I used the Metal Prep by POR15 folks prior to the rust coating... It is rather thin and seems to seap down into the rusty areas real well... The zinc coating works great with the por15 over top of it... The stuff I painted this way (on boat trailer) have been outside every day for the past 12 years and still is rust free... I never even put a top coat of paint over it...
http://www.por15.com/PREP-READY-_p_15.html
Edit: I called it by the wrong name, it's Prep and Ready, not Metal Prep...
http://www.por15.com/PREP-READY-_p_15.html
Edit: I called it by the wrong name, it's Prep and Ready, not Metal Prep...
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op if you're looking just to get through winter again don't bother cheaping out on this detail, its important to do it right if you plan to keep your jeep...
if you're worried about salt etc, I'd seriously consider just save your money for undercarriage wash after salt is on the road... save your money to do it right and tackle it sometime between spring and fall..
because if you're not painting in a controlled temp and able to leave your vehicle in the controlled temp while its curing (probably 2 weeks total cure time)...
its just money out the window...
if you're worried about salt etc, I'd seriously consider just save your money for undercarriage wash after salt is on the road... save your money to do it right and tackle it sometime between spring and fall..
because if you're not painting in a controlled temp and able to leave your vehicle in the controlled temp while its curing (probably 2 weeks total cure time)...
its just money out the window...