Dan91

Agreed, using the hole is easy, and if you have well-worn drums it's the only way to fully adjust your rear brakes. It's somewhat easy with a flathead screwdriver, and super easy with the actual tool (brake spoon.)

jedijeb

I agree, not so hard. I learned when I was a teen and got my first truck, 71 F100, drums front and rear lol. The crazy thing had 3" pads front and back.

DFlintstone

If the auto adjustors work, just gettn' close might work.

I think if you put on the e-brake, then rock back and forth. (the Jeep, not you), it put's it to the adjustor. Shifting from drive ro reverse with the brake on just for that ...doesn't thrill me, but it might work some. (I'm not joking) I think you can duplicate a bunch of what it was designed for, doing that.

I know a gal with the right tools though.

McCaffrey

I forgot this is the internet. Say something is difficult and 5 people will immediately say it's easy, if not trivial. Possibly so easy it can be done with mind power alone.

DFlintstone

I just pulled maybe 180 studs out of a pair of tires. The first one or two were REALLY TOUGH. The next 20 or 30 I did 5 at a time , with breaks. Then I got to doing more than five or ten.

On the last 50 or so I had it down to maybe 10 sec each.

This pair set me back $30. Anyway the point is, once you have done it a few times, it gets easier.

DFlintstone

And YES, McCaffery. Once you have dialed the wheel tight, and it's time to let loose some, it's pretty tough. You might need to depress the adjuster arm with a second tool. (long thin screwdriver) to get it to let go to loosen. Very tough, agreed. Glad it doesn't need to be done very often.

freegdr

No wonder op never came back dolls and snow tires id run also.

DFlintstone

waz lurning m bck with a cute dol and nice tyres.....

HA. Well, don't forget there will be thousands beside the OP. Like the studs, the first time you go to adjust that wheel in the drum, it seems nearly imopssable, but once you get it, it's not so hard.

She is holding the brake tool

bob of the rockies

Does it have abs?

No

And did you bench bleed the MC before installing it.

Yes

Also, when bleeding the brakes, are you getting fluid?

Yes, clear and bled until no bubbles

If you turn the Jeep off, pump the brakes a few times, then press the pedal down, does three pedal sink add you hold pressure on it like there is a leak?

No

I even had the system power bled. Surprisingly, no brake pedal. My mechanic said I had low vacuum to the booster due to low compression. According to my book it should read 230 to 250 and mine was reading 213 and 217. Thanks for your reply.

bob of the rockies

Rear brakes adjusted yet ?

Yes

Front calipers bleeders on bottom ?

No, mine are pointed towards the rear of the vehicle. Are you hinting they've been improperly installed? That would be interesting.

bob of the rockies

I see you have an 89 (same as mine). What size tires?

30's

If you're running 33ish" or larger you can expect the brakes to suck with stock components. Unless you start doing mods you have no option other than OEM pads and crappy brake

I never really had good brakes on that thing. That's why I was shocked when after I replaced all the brake components I still had no brakes.

DFlintstone

OK...First. not to beat a dead horse, but compression across the board at 125 would be OK. Low, but it would run/work. Sorry how that worked out for you. With, or without the vac booster it shouldn't go to the floor. (and your Vac is easily checked with a cheap gauge.

Man what a hitch! I feel for you. You are in the right place. we can get this.

What Freedgr was saying on the front calipers, they can be installed with the Edit; and bleeders downward, so they come off the lower/bottom of the caliper. On the car, the bleeder should be at the top, where air would go out to the bleeder. like, > C*...< there at the top. Just that happens, since the right and left are interchangeable, and it comes out upside down.

Are Edit; the bleeders at the top of the caliper?

Radi

There is a remote possibility that you've fixed the original problem but created another if the booster/master cylinder were not replaced as a matched set.
There's an adjusting rod in there that needs to be set to the proper length, if you remove the two bolts holding the MC to the booster, you'll see it. Too long and the brakes will drag. Too short and you'll have excessive pedal travel or no brakes at all.

Excessive pedal travel isn't a vacuum booster problem. A hard pedal might be. Something is out of adjustment.

DFlintstone

Above the cylinder, so the air can get out?

bob of the rockies

Radi

There is a remote possibility that you've fixed the original problem but created another if the booster/master cylinder were not replaced as a matched set.

I bought them as a matched set.

There's an adjusting rod in there that needs to be set to the proper length, if you remove the two bolts holding the MC to the booster, you'll see it. Too long and the brakes will drag. Too short and you'll have excessive pedal travel or no brakes at all.

Now see that's very interesting. I was told those rods are factory set. I need to do a vacuum test on the engine where it supplies the booster. Damn problems I just want to get int the hills.

Excessive pedal travel isn't a vacuum booster problem. A hard pedal might be. Something is out of adjustment.

I'm going to be going through everything again once I get other things straightened out on the new tranny and engine. I been looking for the proper vacuum numbers for the booster. Thanks for your advice.