If he wants to replace the radiator, then definitely go open. I think it was a 1992 radiator that I used in my 89. For now, I'd suggest Teeing off the upper heater hose to the bottom of the surge tank and plugging the upper hole in the bottle. If you Tee both lines in, then I believe the stock arrangement had the bottom radiator hose to the top of the bottle? I just remember the stock flow was into the top of the surge tank and out the bottom.

 

It's only $60 for a brand new radiator. Personally I wouldn't mess with cutting hoses and teeing stuff adding more leak points. I'd just run solid hoses to the heater and then throw in an open system radiator with whatever cheap overflow tank you can find and fit.

 

The third bolt that I think you are referencing is farther forward and above the frame hole. The bracket in the photo is blocking the view such that you cannot see the third bolt in this photo. I had to check my ’91 to verify. If the fender liner is in place you can’t see that bolt but I have my liner out for replacement.

By the way if anyone has a good OEM front driver side fender liner I am looking for one. I may have to try an aftermarket liner.

 

Very curious about the cause of the frame cracks. Seems that they may have started at the steering box bolt as several cracks radiate from the frame bolt hole. Looks like the bolt head has been partly rounded off and the frame pulled in. I will guess that someone way over torqued that bolt. Look around and see what else you find.

This Jeep seems like a good candidate for restoration but it is going to require a lot of work and effort finding the right parts. To get the value out of the project it will have to be a proper restoration and not end up as a poorly redone/modified Jeep. I hope you do take the restoration route as this is a rare find today. It would easily be worth $10k or more if properly restored.

 

My Dad's 94 was a 2-door. Imagine your XJ exactly as it is, but with really long and heavy doors. I also find the 2 doors less practical and forget 2 doors with young kids - that's the stuff of nightmares! As far as driving, when I first test drove what is now my 95, I felt like it was exactly the same as my dad's 94. The biggest thing that felt weird was the airbag style steering wheel vs. the old school one.

 

This absolutely is a great support group, glad we have 30 acres so I have room to fill in the jeeps haha. Indeed steadily scanning the landscape especially for 2 door xj's now.

3 is what I've read, I also see the third bolt through that large hole on inside rail. Should 3rd bolt be further forward in front of bracket as third coast mentioned or above in triangle shape?

 

Restoration is absolutely the plan, but with resale questionable.

The floor pans in xjs rust out like the mj's correct, same body so they must.

Should I proceed by tearing out carpet and look for rust as I've been told on the Comanche before winter and snow?

Building large carport currently for that reason.

Also regarding the original subject, the CRACK, I am learning to weld but am not confident in fixing myself.

Anyone near the Tehachapi CA (Bakersfield) area with skills willing to help out before I C-rok plate it??
I have beer, a garage with 240v, and know good local trails

Forgot to load this picture

 

Definitely gonna wanna take a look at the floors.

 

The upper front "third" bolt is out of view in your photo. I have the fender liner and front sway bar out of my '91 as part of restoration activity so it was easy to get a couple of photos. Above is what my '91 looks like and yours should be nearly the same. I may have additional bolt holes on the bottom of the frame for the front skid plate.

Besides possible over torqueing of the bolts it almost looks like the bottom of your frame is deformed behind the sway bar bracket mount but it may just be the perspective. Maybe someone tried to jack it or support it at the point? Probably not a good idea as is at the end of the frame. I am not a welder but know a bit about metallurgy. The frame would be made from higher tensile strength steel and excessive heat will reduce the yield strength and ultimate tensile strength. It is a challenge as the cracked areas already have their properties changed due to exceeding yield strength (it cracked). If welding is undertaken gas shielded arc welding with lower current/heat would likely be the best bet for retaining strength. Someone who is experienced in unibody collision repair would be helpful.