CherokeeXJoe

Hi everyone, I've had my 1993 xj for about 6 months now and a few weeks ago it died while driving, it had power but went to 0 rpms. It had low oil pressure but it never hit 0 before. I had to get it towed and now I have it sitting at the apartment. It cranks but will not start because It has no spark, I have already replaced the Crankshaft position sensor with one I got on eBay, I replaced the distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs, and ignition coil and still no luck. I'm at a loss and I fear I might have to sell it if I cant figure it out soon. Thanks guys

RocketMouse

Are you sure you have a good coil and crankshaft position sensor? Most common things I've seen with the issue you're experiencing is the crank sensor and coil being the root cause.
Did you test your distributor to make sure if you can get any spark that far?

Also... when you replaced your distributor cap... did you replace the coil wire itself? It's certainly possible that it went bad and you've got good components on either side of it. (new cap and new coil). Just a thought before you throw in the towel.

Others may have some different thoughts, but I'd try replacing that first since you've already done the other steps you mentioned.

PatHenry

Did you replace the wires too?

RocketMouse

lol... that's what I was thinking too in my post. A relatively inexpensive step to take before the OP throws in the towel.

CherokeeXJoe

thanks for replying! But yes, I did replace the coil wire. I read often times it's the camshaft position sensor, but I don't believe I have one. I guess I'll try going to the junk yard and getting a crankshaft position sensor off one of the cherokees there.

RocketMouse

well poo... I was hoping that would be the fix you were needing.
When I read that you got your sensor from online, not that parts online are always a bad idea, but just have to be more careful who they are coming from. It's possible you got a bad one or it was a cheap knock-off that came from China where it was soldered together in a room with the lights off to save on electricity. lol.

Hope you have better luck salvaging one. Let us know the outcome.

BTW... have you tested if you get spark on the inside of the cap? If not, it's obviously up-stream from that point too.

CherokeeXJoe

no I haven't tested inside the cap but earlier I was testing all the fuses under the hood and found a blown one labeled engine control 2, I replaced it and it tested fine but 2 more labeled ignition and auto transmission won't test. I tested the metal part inside where the fuse goes in and the light on my tester doesn' come on. Can the slot where the fuse goes in go bad? Thanks rocket mouse

RocketMouse

I heard someone else on here test theirs near dusk...and could visually see whether or not they were getting spark that far. Just a thought.

As for the fuse housing... is it possible? yes. With the battery completely disconnected, you could use something like Q-tips and isopropyl alcohol (as it evaporates quickly without leaving a residue). And try cleaning out the contact slots in the fuse block on those. It's certainly possible you have a little corrosion going on. It happens from time to time on electrical contacts...so not unheard of.
After you do that, test the slot again and see what you get. If you're good, then great, if not, it may mean you have a short/break in one of those wires somewhere in the wire going to it. But unless you've fried something, that's not as likely. I think cleaning it good should do the trick.
*** don't forget to reconnect the battery when done, before you retest. lol.

getterdun

I'd try disconnecting then reconnecting the VSS (on rear of transfer case). Had similar problem on 2001 XJ and this worked.

RocketMouse

I know vacuum lines can cause several problems if there are leaks... I know a decent amount about wrenching, but and while vacuum leaks can certainly cause a no start situation, I don't know if there is a specific one that would cause a no start because of not allowing spark. Other than possibly at the intake if the IAC is not functioning with a too lean issue. But again, I don't know if that would cause no spark.

Others can chime in. That's just my 2 cents.... if I'm wrong, then we'll all learn something new.

RocketMouse

@ the OP... let us know if you are now able to get spark from your new coil that you installed.
Even if the timing was off causing the no start, you should still be able to get spark.

CherokeeXJoe

I still have no spark with the new coil. I don' know whether or not the ignition fuse slot being unresponsive can cause the no spark, but that's my best guess. I have to get a ride with my sister to get some rubbing alcohol but when I clean up the port I'll let you know what comes of it.

RocketMouse

It certainly could. you need current flowing through it to pass it on to the coil. I would use the isopropyl and q-tips. Just dip them in the bottle to soak up the solution. Then apply it to the fuse contacts.
There are several things that could cause a crank but no start... but reason I'm thinking that direction is that if it was further up in the ignition, it wouldn't be making contact to make it crank with the starter.

If you have an ohm meter... you could first front test the crank sensor plug for 5V on the send and return wires. Then you with it disconnected, have someone turn the key on in the ignition. Then plug the connector back in. When you do, listen to see if you can hear the injectors fire and you should also hear the fuel pump kick on. ( a bypass test)
If you do, then your sensor should be good, but to confirm, you could back probe the connector wires and verify you still get the correct voltage on the send & return wires.