lawsoncl

Once you fix all that, then you can taking that leaking valve cover and oil filter adapter. :}

xjtje90f30

well let’s hope NGK will work

xjtje90f30

can you elaborate? Is my valve cover leaking? Also oil filter adapter?

lawsoncl

Educated guess as the side of the engine and oil filter adapter looked oily in your pictures.

xjtje90f30

Good eye, after reading your post and checking some stuff, oil filter adapter leaking. Going to tackle this weekend, was slowing losing oil, maybe less than 1 quart an oil change. Ordered new gasket. Thank you for that.

Old Man Minimalist

Going to try to hop on this one vs starting a new thread. I just installed the cable set on my '99 XJ. It all seemed to go pretty well but instead of cranking with no start, mine won't crank. Plenty of power driving my blower fan, interior lights, etc. but no crank.

I have 12v+ across the battery terminals, had the battery load tested yesterday and it passed just fine.

I ran the wires as suggested, cleaned the contact points for everything and I can't find anything that came apart when I was working on it. I added some pics, but I doubt they will be much help.

Any ideas?






BTW, what is that circular disc with the wire connection in the bottom of the battery tray? Just curious.

Roler

That's the battery temp sensor. Helps the PCM determine alternator output.

That no crank is probably something simple since you did some work and prior to that work had no issues?

Is yours an auto transmission?

Old Man Minimalist

The only issue I have had was a parasitic draw that drains my battery if I don't run it for a month or so. The other day I tried to start it to back it out of the garage to begin a coolant change and it wouldn't start. Cranked for a sec, then the "clicks". So I took the battery to a shop and they put it on a charger overnight and when I came in they did a load test and it passed.

Yes, it is an auto. I checked for voltage at the starter, on the fuses in the PCM, and both sides of the fuse. 12.8 all around.

xjtje90f30

As far as I could tell my issue was the cable from the cable upgrade for the block to firewall connection wasn’t good. Since every time I installed the upgraded cable for block to firewall I had this issue. But when I re-installed old cable which is this photo, my issue went away.

Yours sounds like maybe starter issue? You make sure you properly secured cable going to starter?

Old Man Minimalist

I'm showing 12.8v at the stud that the positive cable is attached to.

Is it possible that when I was removing the bolt to swap the cable that I did something. It seemed like it took a lot of turns to get the nut off. Could I have spun the stud inside solenoid and sheared some connections?

It's been a minute since I have been inside a starter solenoid so I may talking wacky...

Roler

You probably mean fuses in the PDC, not the PCM

Talking about the PDC, let's do a test there:

Trans in Park
Remove the ASD relay
Verify where relay pins 30 and 87 would go into (the so-called terminals)
Put the ignition key to RUN (not start)
Jump terminal 30 and 87

Does it crank now?

Old Man Minimalist

I tested this and still no crank. I'm not even getting a "click".

If I put a jumper between the batt pos and ignition "tab"on the starter solenoid, the starter engages.

Am I supposed to show voltage on the ignition switch wire down by the starter with the key in the run position? I would assume so, but you know what they say about assumptions. I obviously messed with that wire while installing the new cables.

awg

before checking circuit diagrams to see what order parts are in , move your auto stick through Park to Neutral while cranking key

If the NSS is dodgy, this will probably work

Mine is doing this now

My other XJ does it

My previous XJ did, until I took out and cleaned up the NSS.

( its 100% certain this part will eventually do this, but a clean up of the copper contacts almost always fixes it, no need for an expensive, inferior aftermarket part)

Saudade

While I prefer this be a new thread so we don't get responses mixed up between you and the OP, but here goes.

So yes, since you know the starter cranks if you bypass by jumping directly to the starter, it the switched wire issue. Key in START, it should read 12v. It comes from the starter relay in the PDC. The relay switch side comes from PDC Fuse 10 (20a). The relay coil side runs through the NSS and to the ignition key. The NSS grounds the circuit in P or N. Fuse 19 in the PDC provides the juice to energize the relay. Ultimately pwr comes from the ign switch.

Old Man Minimalist

So I have got into the back side of the PDC and found a terminal had dropped out of the starter relay section. The relay has the following terminals:

85,86,87,87A and 30

With the terminal that is hanging out in the box, I need to put it back in but I have two empty slots. Currently I have terminals in 30,85 and 36 leaving 87 and 87A without a terminal.

I'll leave 87A blank and hook the terminal to 87. I believe that is correct. And since the terminal won't "click" into place, I'm putting a dab of JB weld to hold it it so it'll be 24 hours before I can put it back together and test it.

From now on, I'll start new threads. Still trying to figure out the protocols here. Thanks.