Crank no start, just did big 7 cable upgrade
#17
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Year: 1990
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#18
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#20
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#21
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
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Going to try to hop on this one vs starting a new thread. I just installed the cable set on my '99 XJ. It all seemed to go pretty well but instead of cranking with no start, mine won't crank. Plenty of power driving my blower fan, interior lights, etc. but no crank.
I have 12v+ across the battery terminals, had the battery load tested yesterday and it passed just fine.
I ran the wires as suggested, cleaned the contact points for everything and I can't find anything that came apart when I was working on it. I added some pics, but I doubt they will be much help.
Any ideas?
BTW, what is that circular disc with the wire connection in the bottom of the battery tray? Just curious.
I have 12v+ across the battery terminals, had the battery load tested yesterday and it passed just fine.
I ran the wires as suggested, cleaned the contact points for everything and I can't find anything that came apart when I was working on it. I added some pics, but I doubt they will be much help.
Any ideas?
BTW, what is that circular disc with the wire connection in the bottom of the battery tray? Just curious.
#22
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That no crank is probably something simple since you did some work and prior to that work had no issues?
Is yours an auto transmission?
#23
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Year: 1999
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Yes, it is an auto. I checked for voltage at the starter, on the fuses in the PCM, and both sides of the fuse. 12.8 all around.
#24
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Going to try to hop on this one vs starting a new thread. I just installed the cable set on my '99 XJ. It all seemed to go pretty well but instead of cranking with no start, mine won't crank. Plenty of power driving my blower fan, interior lights, etc. but no crank.
I have 12v+ across the battery terminals, had the battery load tested yesterday and it passed just fine.
I ran the wires as suggested, cleaned the contact points for everything and I can't find anything that came apart when I was working on it. I added some pics, but I doubt they will be much help.
Any ideas?
BTW, what is that circular disc with the wire connection in the bottom of the battery tray? Just curious.
I have 12v+ across the battery terminals, had the battery load tested yesterday and it passed just fine.
I ran the wires as suggested, cleaned the contact points for everything and I can't find anything that came apart when I was working on it. I added some pics, but I doubt they will be much help.
Any ideas?
BTW, what is that circular disc with the wire connection in the bottom of the battery tray? Just curious.
Yours sounds like maybe starter issue? You make sure you properly secured cable going to starter?
Last edited by xjtje90f30; 08-13-2022 at 08:00 PM.
#25
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
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As far as I could tell my issue was the cable from the cable upgrade for the block to firewall connection wasn’t good. Since every time I installed the upgraded cable for block to firewall I had this issue. But when I re-installed old cable which is this photo, my issue went away.
Yours sounds like maybe starter issue? You make sure you properly secured cable going to starter?
Yours sounds like maybe starter issue? You make sure you properly secured cable going to starter?
Is it possible that when I was removing the bolt to swap the cable that I did something. It seemed like it took a lot of turns to get the nut off. Could I have spun the stud inside solenoid and sheared some connections?
It's been a minute since I have been inside a starter solenoid so I may talking wacky...
#26
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You probably mean fuses in the PDC, not the PCM
Talking about the PDC, let's do a test there:
Trans in Park
Remove the ASD relay
Verify where relay pins 30 and 87 would go into (the so-called terminals)
Put the ignition key to RUN (not start)
Jump terminal 30 and 87
Does it crank now?
Talking about the PDC, let's do a test there:
Trans in Park
Remove the ASD relay
Verify where relay pins 30 and 87 would go into (the so-called terminals)
Put the ignition key to RUN (not start)
Jump terminal 30 and 87
Does it crank now?
#27
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Year: 1999
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You probably mean fuses in the PDC, not the PCM
Talking about the PDC, let's do a test there:
Trans in Park
Remove the ASD relay
Verify where relay pins 30 and 87 would go into (the so-called terminals)
Put the ignition key to RUN (not start)
Jump terminal 30 and 87
Does it crank now?
Talking about the PDC, let's do a test there:
Trans in Park
Remove the ASD relay
Verify where relay pins 30 and 87 would go into (the so-called terminals)
Put the ignition key to RUN (not start)
Jump terminal 30 and 87
Does it crank now?
If I put a jumper between the batt pos and ignition "tab"on the starter solenoid, the starter engages.
Am I supposed to show voltage on the ignition switch wire down by the starter with the key in the run position? I would assume so, but you know what they say about assumptions. I obviously messed with that wire while installing the new cables.
Last edited by Old Man Minimalist; 08-14-2022 at 08:24 AM.
#28
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before checking circuit diagrams to see what order parts are in , move your auto stick through Park to Neutral while cranking key
If the NSS is dodgy, this will probably work
Mine is doing this now
My other XJ does it
My previous XJ did, until I took out and cleaned up the NSS.
( its 100% certain this part will eventually do this, but a clean up of the copper contacts almost always fixes it, no need for an expensive, inferior aftermarket part)
If the NSS is dodgy, this will probably work
Mine is doing this now
My other XJ does it
My previous XJ did, until I took out and cleaned up the NSS.
( its 100% certain this part will eventually do this, but a clean up of the copper contacts almost always fixes it, no need for an expensive, inferior aftermarket part)
#29
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While I prefer this be a new thread so we don't get responses mixed up between you and the OP, but here goes.
So yes, since you know the starter cranks if you bypass by jumping directly to the starter, it the switched wire issue. Key in START, it should read 12v. It comes from the starter relay in the PDC. The relay switch side comes from PDC Fuse 10 (20a). The relay coil side runs through the NSS and to the ignition key. The NSS grounds the circuit in P or N. Fuse 19 in the PDC provides the juice to energize the relay. Ultimately pwr comes from the ign switch.
So yes, since you know the starter cranks if you bypass by jumping directly to the starter, it the switched wire issue. Key in START, it should read 12v. It comes from the starter relay in the PDC. The relay switch side comes from PDC Fuse 10 (20a). The relay coil side runs through the NSS and to the ignition key. The NSS grounds the circuit in P or N. Fuse 19 in the PDC provides the juice to energize the relay. Ultimately pwr comes from the ign switch.
Last edited by Saudade; 08-14-2022 at 08:59 AM.
#30
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While I prefer this be a new thread so we don't get responses mixed up between you and the OP, but here goes.
So yes, since you know the starter cranks if you bypass by jumping directly to the starter, it the switched wire issue. Key in START, it should read 12v. It comes from the starter relay in the PDC. The relay switch side comes from PDC Fuse 10 (20a). The relay coil side runs through the NSS and to the ignition key. The NSS grounds the circuit in P or N. Fuse 19 in the PDC provides the juice to energize the relay. Ultimately pwr comes from the ign switch.
So yes, since you know the starter cranks if you bypass by jumping directly to the starter, it the switched wire issue. Key in START, it should read 12v. It comes from the starter relay in the PDC. The relay switch side comes from PDC Fuse 10 (20a). The relay coil side runs through the NSS and to the ignition key. The NSS grounds the circuit in P or N. Fuse 19 in the PDC provides the juice to energize the relay. Ultimately pwr comes from the ign switch.
85,86,87,87A and 30
With the terminal that is hanging out in the box, I need to put it back in but I have two empty slots. Currently I have terminals in 30,85 and 36 leaving 87 and 87A without a terminal.
I'll leave 87A blank and hook the terminal to 87. I believe that is correct. And since the terminal won't "click" into place, I'm putting a dab of JB weld to hold it it so it'll be 24 hours before I can put it back together and test it.
From now on, I'll start new threads. Still trying to figure out the protocols here. Thanks.
Last edited by Old Man Minimalist; 08-14-2022 at 11:54 AM.