Crank Position Sensor - Manual vs. Automatic?
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Crank Position Sensor - Manual vs. Automatic?
Hey Jeep Friends!
Does anybody know if there is a difference between a CPS for a manual trans and a CPS for an automatic trans? From what I've heard, the exterior between the two may be identical (appearing the be interchangeable) though the inner electronics could be different.
I have been having electrical trouble which was initiated by a faulty CPS. Obviously this is a common problem on Cherokees, so I was able to identify the problem, locate the sensor, and replace it right away. After a month of trying to figure out the no-spark problem and replacing nearly every ignition component we still haven't made much progress, and now we're thinking the new CPS could be the issue.
Thanks!
Does anybody know if there is a difference between a CPS for a manual trans and a CPS for an automatic trans? From what I've heard, the exterior between the two may be identical (appearing the be interchangeable) though the inner electronics could be different.
I have been having electrical trouble which was initiated by a faulty CPS. Obviously this is a common problem on Cherokees, so I was able to identify the problem, locate the sensor, and replace it right away. After a month of trying to figure out the no-spark problem and replacing nearly every ignition component we still haven't made much progress, and now we're thinking the new CPS could be the issue.
Thanks!
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Year: 1996
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Engine: 4.0 h.o.
i had a problem with a 90 4.0 cherokee a few years back. it was a no start issue, an intermittent no start problem. drove it to a shop(yes it actually started that time) and they found the crank position sensor to be at fault. they found the wires leading to the cps had shorted to ground on the tranny bell housing. new cps and some redirected wiring and problem solved....never had another issue with it. just a thought i hope this helps.
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Jantharr (06-28-2023)
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Thanks for the response! I am thinking the issue could definitely be wiring because I replaced the CPS twice with no avail, but I have a whole other thread for that.
I was just wondering if there's a difference between the CPS on auto trans and CPS on manual trans, or if they're identical.
I was just wondering if there's a difference between the CPS on auto trans and CPS on manual trans, or if they're identical.
#4
Crank Sensors Auto vs Manual
The Manual Sensors are physically shorter than the Automatic Sensors. Not by a lot, but enough that the manual sensors won't be in range to detect the Flex Plate in an auto transmission. If you use an Automatic Transmission sensor in a manual transmission you will have to shim it out a little (about the width of a standard washer) otherwise it will hit the flywheel and get destroyed. These sensors are designed to operate at a very fine distance range away from the flywheel/flex plate about the thickness of 2 credit cards. Most online aftermarket sites selling these sensors don't differ far enough and assume everything fits your year vehicle..Don't get stuck with wrong parts! Rockauto.com will hammer down your vehicle version, engine, transmission, VIN#, etc to get you to the right part. PS. If you buy the Economy parts..well you get what you pay for. It may work for a while.. trust me I know...
(P.S. - Always Always look at inside the connector picture to make sure it is also identical in orientation to the one you have.)
(P.S. - Always Always look at inside the connector picture to make sure it is also identical in orientation to the one you have.)
Last edited by Craig Weldy; 07-07-2020 at 09:04 AM.
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Batman33165 (07-07-2020)
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Do not buy any aftermarket CPS. These things are very picky about sensors, especially that sensor. Mopar only. (Also sold under the NGK or NTK label, since NGK makes them for Mopar.)
There are tons of horror stories here about a new aftermarket CPS being bad out of the box, or failing in a few minutes, or hours... or months. We probably see a new one at least once or twice a month on this forum, and sometimes more.
It can make diagnosis pretty frustrating. You were SURE it was the CPS, and you replaced it with a brand new one, and it still won't start! Now what?
Now your new CPS is bad out of the box, but you'll tear your hair out for three weeks trying to find another problem.
There are tons of horror stories here about a new aftermarket CPS being bad out of the box, or failing in a few minutes, or hours... or months. We probably see a new one at least once or twice a month on this forum, and sometimes more.
It can make diagnosis pretty frustrating. You were SURE it was the CPS, and you replaced it with a brand new one, and it still won't start! Now what?
Now your new CPS is bad out of the box, but you'll tear your hair out for three weeks trying to find another problem.
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Welcome to the forum. Please provide the different part numbers for the auto and manual CPS. This will help future members on this vintage thread.
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
A manual Jeep is unlikely to ever need a new CPS. I've got somewhere between 725k-750k miles driven across 3 4.0L Jeeps in my family, all 3 were manuals 2 XJ's with AX15's (400k bought new and ~30k) and 1 TJ (302k bought new) with the NV3550 and have never had a single CPS failure. My theory is that the auto transmission generates a heck of a lot more heat and since the CPS failures seem to be consistently thermal in nature, that's the reason the autos have a problem but the manuals never do.
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oldbolts (07-10-2020)
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
My dad bought his 94 XJ brand new, I bought my 00 TJ brand new.. both were DD respectively for roughly 15 years each, I know the TJ is still operational today with the original CPS, so it's possibly coincidence, but likely a sound theory. The 700k miles between the two is a lot of miles. The manual tranny's don't require cooling like the auto does, so right there we know that the auto generates a lot more heat during normal operation.... the normal complaint that turns out to be CPS is "runs fine when cold, as soon as it's up to temp, it cuts out"... well, maybe the manual tranny is cool enough that it never gets "up to the same temp" as the auto does.
I'm interested in hearing if someone that has or had a manual has ever had a CPS failure like what is commonly described.
I'm interested in hearing if someone that has or had a manual has ever had a CPS failure like what is commonly described.
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Year: 1989
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0
Depends on the year. Up to 1990, the Renix era has the same part number. Rock auto shows the same part numbers for 1991-1993, but different ones for 94 -- which makes me wonder since the flex plates are the same?
#11
chazzer1947
My dad bought his 94 XJ brand new, I bought my 00 TJ brand new.. both were DD respectively for roughly 15 years each, I know the TJ is still operational today with the original CPS, so it's possibly coincidence, but likely a sound theory. The 700k miles between the two is a lot of miles. The manual tranny's don't require cooling like the auto does, so right there we know that the auto generates a lot more heat during normal operation.... the normal complaint that turns out to be CPS is "runs fine when cold, as soon as it's up to temp, it cuts out"... well, maybe the manual tranny is cool enough that it never gets "up to the same temp" as the auto does.
I'm interested in hearing if someone that has or had a manual has ever had a CPS failure like what is commonly described.
I'm interested in hearing if someone that has or had a manual has ever had a CPS failure like what is commonly described.
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
I'd check that you're actually failing CPS's and not something else. Check the wiring and maybe the ECU itself. The components of the OEM part are expensive, so aftermarket manufacturers cut corners, so it's not impossible that you're seeing 4 failures in a short window, but even the cheapest of cheap parts is statistically unlikely to be so bad you're going through 1 every 100 miles 4x over.
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chazzer1947 (07-11-2024)
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Year: 96
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The CPS is basically a strong magnet with some wires wrapped around it
OEM items are very strong magnetically, and can pick up a heavier weight than aftermarket. That is one test of quality
In addition, they are basically Hall sensors, so they should be able to be read for resistance with an ohmeter, and be within a certain range across the wires
I cant remember, but its on here, and/or FSM, how to test..at least for open/short in the CPS which proves it is dead
I would suspect the wire harness back to the CPU, the plastic on the wires can disintegrate and cause a short, which may eventually take out the PCM driver
These harness issues can be very intermittent. You would need to check harness pins and shake harness, even then not conclusive
Inspect for physical damage if possible, that area is a known problem, harness stretches around engine corner
OEM items are very strong magnetically, and can pick up a heavier weight than aftermarket. That is one test of quality
In addition, they are basically Hall sensors, so they should be able to be read for resistance with an ohmeter, and be within a certain range across the wires
I cant remember, but its on here, and/or FSM, how to test..at least for open/short in the CPS which proves it is dead
I would suspect the wire harness back to the CPU, the plastic on the wires can disintegrate and cause a short, which may eventually take out the PCM driver
These harness issues can be very intermittent. You would need to check harness pins and shake harness, even then not conclusive
Inspect for physical damage if possible, that area is a known problem, harness stretches around engine corner
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chazzer1947 (07-11-2024)
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Year: 1989
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0
The earlier renix era CPS sensor could be sanity checked with an ohmmeter, and the voltage while cranking could be check with a voltmeter. The later hall-effect ones have a internal driver circuit, which provides a square wave output.