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Cranks but does not start

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Old 12-31-2015 | 07:12 PM
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Vogel083's Avatar
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Year: 1991
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Default Cranks but does not start

I recently purchased a '91 Cherokee that did(does) not run. The guy I bought it from told me that it "just needs the distributor replaced," so I replaced it. After replacing that it cranks, but it still will not start. Also, when I turn the key to the first position, I can't hear the fuel pump start. So, the engine is not getting any spark or fuel. After finding the fuel pump wasn't working, I tried checking the fuel pump relay to see if anything was wrong with that. While doing that I found that there was a 30 A fuse labeled Engine Control that had blown. I'm not really sure what to do from here though, and I'm getting pretty desperate to get this thing running. Any help would be much appreciated!
Old 12-31-2015 | 08:42 PM
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wauto's Avatar
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From: Iowa
Year: 1995,1997
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Engine: 4.0
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Replace the bad fuse.
Old 12-31-2015 | 10:05 PM
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From: Oregon Coast
Year: 1999
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Replace the fuse. It's for the ECU.
Old 01-01-2016 | 04:21 AM
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I have replaced it but it blew again after maybe 10 seconds of cranking.
Old 01-01-2016 | 08:41 AM
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after replacing the fuse were you able to hear the fuel pump? are you getting spark?
Old 01-01-2016 | 12:02 PM
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
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Check o2 sensor wiring not contacting metal also injector wires not.
Old 01-01-2016 | 06:10 PM
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After I replaced the fuse I could hear the fuel pump for a couple seconds and then when I cranked it, the fuse blew again.
Old 01-01-2016 | 06:34 PM
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You have a short somewhere. Find the short then replace the fuse and it should run.
Old 01-01-2016 | 06:57 PM
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Does anyone know what this is? It was bolted onto my old distributor cap and my moron buddy ended ripping it out when he tried to pull the distributor out. I'm not sure exactly what it is or what it does, I thought it might be like a resistor of sorts that could be causing it to go to ground and causing the short? I've tried visually following the wire back to it's origin and I believe that it leads to the fuse/relay box right behind the battery containing the Engine Control fuse. I can't tell for sure because it leads into a hose with a bunch of different wires that splits off in several different ways before getting to the box. Either way, I'll solder it back to the other end of the wiring, but it would just be really nice to know if maybe it's a part of the problem.
Old 01-07-2016 | 08:31 PM
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Year: 94
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Engine: 4.0L I6
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Okay, that fuse powers like honestly everything lol. mine did the same thing, cheeck the heated o2 sensor, make sure it has not melted against the intake and shorted, thats where mine shorted to pop the fuse. and everyone saying to replace the fuse.. fuses don't pop for no reason, you need to find the short before a fuse will fix it.
Old 01-07-2016 | 08:33 PM
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the wire should run from the front of the fuel rail down make sure it is not in any contact with metal, if it is, check it and if the plastic has melted, throw some tape around it and you're good to go. get some tubing while you're at it.
Old 01-14-2016 | 05:51 AM
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From: syracuse ny
Year: 1997
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Engine: 4.0, new lifters valve job with new springs and exhaust valves, preload set with shims
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;
Old 01-14-2016 | 05:53 AM
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From: syracuse ny
Year: 1997
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Originally Posted by Vogel083


Does anyone know what this is? It was bolted onto my old distributor cap and my moron buddy ended ripping it out when he tried to pull the distributor out. I'm not sure exactly what it is or what it does, I thought it might be like a resistor of sorts that could be causing it to go to ground and causing the short? I've tried visually following the wire back to it's origin and I believe that it leads to the fuse/relay box right behind the battery containing the Engine Control fuse. I can't tell for sure because it leads into a hose with a bunch of different wires that splits off in several different ways before getting to the box. Either way, I'll solder it back to the other end of the wiring, but it would just be really nice to know if maybe it's a part of the problem.
that is a condenser, sort of like a capacitor, lol. they were used on old distributors that had points to arrest the spark when the points open.
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