I've always read on the forum that older XJ's like mine loved Champion, and the newer XJ's (especially the dizzyless ones) loved NGK?

 

Basically. But NO ENGINE like Bosch Platinum +2,+3,+4's. Even VW's that run factory Bosch plugs run like **** with Bosch Platinum + plugs

 

Taking one thing at a time, it might not be that bad! I was slow to get to temp, or it didn't at all. I bought a meter, (have no gauge). It would hit 160, 165* normally, then just sometimes go closer to 195*. I noticed immediately with a new 02 sensor it was working better. Heat in 8-10 minutes going downhill. I'm thinking that being rich normally made it run really cool. Idk. Anyway, you can win THAT one, with that and/or a new T-stat.
No comment on what happened with the platinum's, except, neat!, you have something to blame the wierdness on. With new plug's in tight maybe that'l take care of it. It's always nice to know the compression as said. Get familiar with the "wet" test if you aren't already.

When my CCV stuff got messed up I thought it might be all over for my old girl. I actually installed a piece of flashing to keep oil off the pipe cuz of all the smoke and the fire hazard. Now with everything straight, I returned the gasket and rear main seal I had bought. (and removed the flashing)(with a tree). Now it might leave a spot the size of a quarter. Wada you want at 265K? Anyway I'd make sure that rear is sucking, and the front is free to vent out, then wash the engine and find where its leaking. (if it wasn't case pressure from CCV issues) Good luck!

 

Thanks for the info and the luck! However, could you fill me in more on the wet test? I've heard wet test vs dry test before, but I never get a straight answer. What is the benefit of one over the other?

CCV system is clear as I replaced all hoses and cleaned out the inside of the VC when I did the gasket. No more blow by in the air filter. Yes! Haha. And my rear main had leaked before, but just a little. I switched to full syn high mileage, and I think the additives helped the worn out seal swell and just hold it back, but it's finally let go which, after 207k miles, I am fine with.

Still gotta call the shop where I had the power steering done at. They should have the receipts for my pump and resevior.

 

Oh, just...I'd do it with the engine warm. Pull the plugs and write down the compression. I go seven strokes just to be sure I got it. With a screw in tester, I guess 5 should be fine.

Then you put a couple tablespoons of oil in each cylinder. I find a leingth of clear vinyl tube is handy. Ya get a little oil in the end, then blow it in there. Or a turkey baster. Might crank it a bit to help it get around & down in the rings. Then you go through again and right down the second set of numbers. if one doesn't change, the rings are sealing well. If it comes up allot there is compression loss past the rings. If a low one does not come up, that signals problems above, valves, head, gasket...anyway post the numbers, people love that.

I've always just stuck the coil wire somewhere where it can ground. I guess with this new, (ha ha!) fuel injection stuff it's recommended to pull the fuel pump relay, or the ASD...I guess all that cranking could dump more than a little fuel.

Sorry it's not your CCV btw. Was hoping at least that rear orifice was clogged. There should be plenty on compression testing on youtube and google as well.

Oh...if I had that kind of trouble with #1 spark plug hole I'd want to get a good look at it. Not something I would want to take a chance on messing up. Idk, dental mirror? can you even see it? I keep a mirror chunk out by my parking area to use to direct a sun-beam on things I really need to see...

 

I just unplug the CPS while cranking. No spark and no fuel.

 

I hate that when that happens to me.........

 

TJ, next time that happens put some Seafoam in it.......

 

Just be careful, because when you use that seafoam, 'crap' is gonna blast outta there like no tomorrow. You will likely **** off neighbors

 

 

Maybe I'm wrong but when plug #1 blew out it might have damaged the threads in the block and thats why it seems kind of loose if your plug still seems loose after the new set, you should definitely get that checked out.

 

If you have a loss of compression past the plug threads then that cylinder will not fire correctly. Can't comment on the bent prongs or the strange suggested use of seafoam.

 

Seafoam fixes everything man!

Also, on a serious note, wouldn't a loss of compression past the park plug be heard? And wouldn't loss of compression period cause a drop in performance? My XJ still gets up and goes, and I haven't noticed any drop in performance.

 

"Simple as unhooking the ignition coil wire and unplugging the injectors, right? Then pull one plug at a time and go."


The way I've always done compression tests is to disconnect and ground the coil wire if so equipped or disconnect the coil pack connections, and then unplug the electrical connections to the injectors--(don't skip these steps), with carb cleaner and compressed air blow out the area around the plugs to remove any dirt or other crap that might be blown into your face/eyes and/or sucked into the cylinders. Wear safety glasses.

Remove all the plugs (lets the engine get to several hundred RPMs), stick between the seat and the gas pedal to hold the throttle body valve all the way open. The battery should be fully charged.

Then run the test (crank the engine for a few seconds with a remote starter or helper) as is (dry), note the figure then squirt some engine oil in the plug hole (wet) and note the reading. If there's a big difference between dry and wet readings it could mean bad (worn or broken) compression rings. Bad readings between two adjacent cylinders could mean a bad head gasket.

If your numbers are OK you could do a “Leak Down” test with the cylinders wet; bad numbers here might indicate bad valves.

 

Unplugging the CPS prevents spark and fuel in one step.