Good afternoon again, all.

I happened across Crusier54's site - what a wealth of knowledge! Kudos to him for putting all that on the web.

I have been having the well-known intermittent cut-outs while going down the highway. It's like it just turns itself off. If I coast long enough, once it kicked back in and kept going. If I hit the brake at all, it dies and I swerve to the shoulder. It might take a few minutes to crank back up. It seems to do this on the first drive of the day, oddly enough, but I can't confirm that is ALWAYS the case.

Anyway, most of these issues lead me to the CPS. I am not sure what ohms I am supposed to get while testing, but I read that isn't the most reliable test. So I tested A/C voltage between A&B and cranked it up, only to see .25-.3 tops.

So I saw Crusier's mods for it the CPS. I drilled out the upper hole to 3/8", and moved the sensor closer. However, I also added some heat resistant shielding. While testing the CPS, it looked like it had been resting on the exhaust manifold and some of the thick insulation was missing, but not down the the CPS wiring.

So my question is - is this shielding an OK idea? Would it cause any problems?

With a heat shield

 

It looks good I would like to know how moving the sensor over to one side would help the performance , the heat shield help .

 

The larger holes let it sit slightly closer to the flywheel to get a better signal. Sliding it on the bracket advances the timing a bit.

 

Found it. The CPS wire was melted.

Now just to figure out how to change it.

And yes, this Jeep I found is dirty as hell. Lol.

 

CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS

RENIX CPS TESTING AND ADJUSTING

OCTOBER 30, 2015 SALAD 113 COMMENTS EDIT



Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark.

Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad.

The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark.

Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS itself as shown in Figure 2 as Connector A, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected.

You should get a reading of .5 AC volts.

If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from NAPA or the dealer.

Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off.

A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out the upper mounting hole to 3/8″ from the stock 5/16″, or slot it so the CPS bracket rests on the bell housing when pushed down. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts.

Another little tip to save tons of aggravation is to stick a bit of electrical tape to your 11mm socket and then shove the bolt in after it. This reduces the chances of dropping that special bolt into the bell housing.

 

It's got a pretty good valve cover oil leak too, by the looks of it.

 

Well, the CPS mods got me .5 more volts (up to .35). I was able to drive my jeep for about 500 miles and 2 weeks with zero issues.

Then, just other day, it died just as it always have been.

I have already re-done 4 of cruiser's first 5 steps. Hope to finish #5 tonight again.

The only pieces I have not replaced are the O2 sensor and the MAT sensor.(3rd CPS, MAP sensor, MAP vacuum fix, coil, distributor, TPS, IAC, fixed all my grounds - zero ohms when shaking all the wires- , added grounds, cleaned grounds and connections.

When it finally died again, I have my REM+ hooked up all the time now, and no lights came on. It took a few minutes for it to start up. Then it died again up the road, but started right back up and made it another 20 miles home no issue.

So damn frustrating! One think I noticed - usually when I turn the key on my REM+ comes on and starts to read. It came on but all zeros on the first die, and then when I saw readings in cranked over. The second time it died up the road a little ways, I got readings immediately and it started up.

 

Shielding or not, be sure to rout it well clear of the exhaust manifold. Partly because of extra Bendix 9 brake lines in the way mine was tough. I did finally get a small zip tie in the right place.

 

Think hard about eliminating the c101 connector......