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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
Could not simply drive the bolts out of the frame because the steering link was on the box, but I could not get the steering link off the box because I could not drop the box. Talk about a catch 22...
So I cut the steering box where the stuck bolt lived and it it with a punch to break it. Out came the box.
I also took a picture of the remnants of the aluminum spacer. That aluminum seems like such a bad idea for a number of reasons.
1. Aluminum does not like steel. Aluminum can tolerate stainless and I don't think I found any stainless on the frame of the HeepaJeep in that particular location.
2. Steering seems to be important - why use such a solt metal like aluminum as a spacer?
So I guess that is it for this episode of "Steering Box Project."
I'm on to my next items of...
1. Drill out broken bolts for the sway bar mounts.
2. Remove broken sway bar link fastner from the brace/mount.
3. Drill, drive, beg the broken bolt out of the frame that I cut to remove the steering box.
I hope there are some good tutorials and willing teachings in this forum so I can button this Cherokee up and get it back on the road.
I'm 57 and have been wrenching for a bit. Kids in my neighborhood came to my house to have their training wheels removed when they saw me cruzen with out them. (true). I still remember that Thorsen shiny red box dad bought me with the 3/8 socket set. I recently found Kroil. It really is truly amazing stuff. I could go on but just trust, once you try it PB, and Liquid wrench barley hold a candle to it. And get this, it's OLD...from the 40's maybe? Idk.
You have a good exposed section there to get REALLY hot. I've never used MAP gas, (have ox/Acc), but I might get that good and red and see what bashing does. Let it cool, bash . Re heat and cool, SHARP smack. Liquid reqnch.
If you have the wallet, and the time....I bought the 16oz "aircroil", (name might have something with the air force using it). Spendy, but a dab will do ya... http://www.kanolabs.com/google/?gcli...FRAtaQodlw0MPg
Oh and..wondering, if the front bumper was off if a guy could smack that bolt on the side with a pipe or something. Might help free it.
Last edited by DFlintstone; 08-19-2016 at 06:19 PM.
Thanks for the direction on Kroil. I checked it out and my little bottom feeder, aka cheapo, heart skipped a beat! I am sure it works great but that stuff is really spendy. So in true bottom feeder fashion I checked out a homebrew option and stumbled on a test done by You Tube guy, Chris Fix. I had heard about this homebrew used by another You Tube person, Bikemanforu, to break rusty parts loose on bicylces.
PB blaster, at the rate needed to remove rusty fasteners on the Heepajeep, is not cheap either and needed to find another option. So I thought I would try out the homebrew method before going to Kroil. I tried it out on some rust stuck, bumper plate fasteners and it worked like a charm.
I mixed Acetone and Automatic Transmission Fluid in equal parts, 1:1 (50/50) and put them in an old school oiler bottle I bought at Harbor Freight for $4.99. I had the ATF and Acetone so I was in for $5 at this point. Soaked the fasteners 2x yesterday and let it sit overnight. This afternoon I slapped the 15mm socket on them and they came right off. So for a few dollars to refill I think I have a good, cheap, bottom feeder method of breaking loose rusted up parts.
08-19-2016, 04:24 PM
