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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
Whoa!
Thanks man, gonna have to print this out and really read it good and thorough.
Just ordered some thermal tape. Hopefully it helps.
I have a weird electrical bug as well but I don't believe it's causing this. Turn signals work fine for about a minute then just stay on. Both ways. And here and there my automatic locks won't work right. I have to unlock/lock a bunch of times to get it.
But I'm pretty sure this has nothing to do with my engine light issue.
turns out i need new rings on cylinder 1.
basically i got a friend to do a compression test, all were fine except 1, which was barely out of spec.
he then put some oil in from the top (spark plug) and it got a little better but not completely.
so he said the rings that "scoop" the oil up are prob bad.
just an update.
turns out i need new rings on cylinder 1.
basically i got a friend to do a compression test, all were fine except 1, which was barely out of spec.
he then put some oil in from the top (spark plug) and it got a little better but not completely.
so he said the rings that "scoop" the oil up are prob bad.
just an update.
If it was rings, it should have gotten lots better with the oil.......
What were the actual numbers?
The results given so far point to a valve not seating more than bad rings.
[QUOTE=synergy58;3085733]I'm paying close attention to this thread because I am curre
Originally Posted by synergy58
I'm paying close attention to this thread because I am currently experiencing a similar issue, which recently began. Most recently, yesterday in fact as I'm trying to solve my noise issues (which I think has been solved - electric fan shot, old belt replaced and new belt needing proper tension) I run to the auto parts store, about 10 miles, run inside for about 20-30 minutes, come out, start the jeep and it acts like... there's not enough power to move, press on the pedal and I felt like I was going to choke it out, its still started but won't go...it moves out of the parking space, leave me choking in the middle of the lot, sputters, chokes, wants to go, doesn't, then it clears its throat, spits it out and takes off like a bat out of hell! Weird!
A similar thing happened a few days ago, where I ran it to the store, came out, started it and it ran really ruff, really ruff! in a few feet, it smoothed out...which has happened a couple of time. Did this to my wife the other day and she won't drive it till it's fixed, that and the noise, which hopefully thats fixed now.
If my issue is something entirely different, sorry for the intrusion, but if anyone has any ideas for me, and I'm going to try the BG44K thing today too, HELP!
I'm following this thread because I have the 3 and 4 cylinder misfire, however I know what your problem is because I have also had that and fixed it'. It's heat soak into the fuel rail. After all the hot fuel is pushed out and replaced with cold fuel the problem goes away. I suspect the misfires caused by it lead to excessive heat in the head which actually causes the cracking issue, just a theory.
I removed the cats thinking it was those in the 00 and 01 models, at the same time I dropped the steel headers and reverted back to the OEM iron headers that are thick as rhino skin. I didn't have the problem before, but now I do and I suspect the heat retention in those OEM pre-cat style headers is a very big factor in the increased under hood temps.
I have an aftermarket custom head from Golen that corrects the 0331 casting problem, but I am still having P0300 and Cyl 3 & 4 misfire even after the engine has cooled down with the hood up now. I suspect I legitimately might have a cracked head regardless of superior casting. I pulled my spark plugs and saw the below, which doesn't look good. Cyl. 1 also looks suspect (this is the same exact problem as original poster, Cyl 1, 3 and 4 misfire). I have a supercharged stroker and the underhood temps of all metal parts feel boiling hot. Plugs 3 & 4 have a white powder finish on one side. Plug 1 has splattered white that isn't powdery. I think that buildup on #6 is from BlueDevil from the last engine and should be ignored. Cylinder 6 got clogged with gasket sealant in another engine in 2016.
I'm opening up this thread instead of starting a new one since there are too many non-in depth posts where you can read the entire evolution of a problem and find the answers to your problem along the way.
So, what do you think of these spark plugs? I'm going to investigate but I get the feeling that I am having 0331 symptoms in a non 0331 head, but the excessive underhood temps from the aftermarket power adders are the source of that.
Last edited by CoffeeCommando; 03-13-2018 at 07:03 PM.
I need to only throw money at parts that are absolutely critical. Any expense can land me without being able to buy parts for a month, and I am frequently having trouble I have been only been able to fix with macgyver methods as I literally cannot even purchase necessary parts (had to rig an IAC for static operation with JB weld).
I couldn't even buy an IAC, and it wasn't driveable without fixing it. THat's how bad it is for me right now. So spark plugs can wait. Whatever is causing the 18+ AFR needs fixed. Whenever I have the misfires I have 17-18 AFR, and cruising puts it off the scale. At idle it comes down to 17-18.
I took some pictures of the analyzed results. Here's the rundown:
When I started it up it went to the usual 17 AFR and I was scared since the fuel pressure was 48-50 non-stop (the timing was a static 20 degrees with no changes)
I rev'ed it a few times and it went back to normal AFRs immediately, which made me think it was an octane issue only and it needed time to disperse and even out the 93 to 89 octane.
....... but then, I took it for a drive (after it hit 202 degrees sitting in the driveway) and as soon as I let off of the pedal, and only then, does it go lean AF. It goes from normal 14-15 ranges to 17-18+ ranges, and hangs there while I idle for the first 15-20 minutes of driving. It will go to the 17-18 range while decelerating, then after a COMPLETE stop it will return to the 14.5 range withing 3-5 seconds. That's within 5-15 minutes of driving. After that time range... it hits the lean mode during deceleartion and never lets up. It's either 17 or higher the longer I drive it.
After it's been on the road for 20+ minutes the deceleration of 17+ makes the idle also read 17+, and then the acceleration is 16 at best. It seems like as time goes on and heat build up the AFR's tank into the lean condition and trash engine operation. The power loss it about half, and that's saying a lot for a supercharged stroker running the smallest pulley a Sprintex can without endangering the supercharger.
I don't suspect injector damage the least for the supercharger because the problem is persistent at all engine speeds and only seems heat related. The supercharger injector is the most heat preserved injector, and these problems are present only after the engine has heated up to full operating temperature for about 15+ minutes. I can only achieve boost on this engine with heavy throttle from idle, or during cruising at 45+ when it won't down shift easily.
I have checked the oil with the dip stick and the cap and there isn't the slightest bit of confirmation of a crack heat, nor have I leaked any coolant in the past 6 weeks. It's as full as I have had it since I topped it off in January.
I suspected I need full 93 octane, but why now. ? I've had it on 89 octane no problems until now..... (which I shouldn't have because Golen prescribes 91 octane for their stroker engines, and mine has a supercharger on top of that).
At this point I want to identify the root cause of the problem and not just speculate about what it could be. I've seen too many of those posts and they do no one any good.
Last edited by CoffeeCommando; 03-14-2018 at 08:54 PM.
Here's some data from the scanner at initial startup in the pictures below. It started up with 20 degrees of ignition advance, but after I throttled it the advance lowered and the AFR's were normal (those are the 3rd and 4th pictures below). I checked fuel pressure while it was warming up and it never left 50, even when throttling. I didn't check it after it started presenting the problem though so I need to check that.
I don't know if the lean condition is causing misfires, or if misfires are causing lean; and why only on deceleration? The only thing different there is that's when vacuum is strongest.
After I throttled it just once from startup it normalized, but this is at operating temperature 15 minutes later.
Here's the scanner reading for the operating temperature AFR shot at 14.7. It seems like the more advance I have the more lean it runs. When I went for a drive and it started running full lean on deceleration and hanging there I plugged in the scanner while trying to accelerate an Ign Advance was at 40+ degrees at 2000 RPMs. I could barely get it to accelerate past that point except by babying the pedal.
Last edited by CoffeeCommando; 03-15-2018 at 09:07 AM.
05-13-2015, 11:03 AM
