instead of carb cleaner or wd-40 try propane -there's no mess and the particles are finer and will get into smaller spaces (leaks).

 

Tried the propane and the idle rpms did not change. Took it to a place to be put on the diagnostic machine and the machine said do a test on the injector spray pattern. They also said it would take two hours and would charge 184 bucks. So i asked what would they change or do next. They mentioned i can remove and clean the fuel rail, said trash might be hung up in there. So i took the jeep home and started researching. Not to many articals out there about cleaning the fuel rails. So as soon as i can get new o rings for the injectors i will clean the rail. Also if anyone knows how to check the spray pattern on the injectors, feel free to let me know.

Thanks

Another question, If you take a spark plug wire off when the engine is idleing, will the rpms change? If so how much? Be careful when doing this, its a nice jolt if it gets you

 

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Seems easy for the injectors but what about the fuel rail?

 

there is a tool to remove the fuel line from the the rail then use carb cleaner to spray it out

 

Is this a tool i can get from advanced auto, orielly's or autozone?

 

yes tell them its to remove the clips on fuel lines tranny lines etc, i cant remeber the name of it though.

 

Part Number:
27132 from autozone

 

Ok thanks

 

I had a fuel injector that was being an slacker, put a used one in it and it quit without me knowing and the spark plug melted the edge of the piston......

 

That doesn't sound good at all

 

Ok so i reset my CE light and removed the fuel rail to make sure there was no trash in it like the mechanic said he was going to do for 180 bucks. There was nothing, clean as a new whistle. So i put new packings on all injectors cleansed injector port holes and reinstalled all parts. I am pretty disapointed that i didn't find anything unusual. Its just a matter of time before the CE light comes back on again. Guess i will just wait till then and download the code to make sure it is still cylinder 1. Ant more sugguestions. And hopefully i haven't missed anyones suggestions.
Thanks

 

So i just finished a dry compression test on all cylinders and here are the results.

Cylinders ---PSI

1 --------------95
2 -------------150
3 -------------160
4 -------------160
5 -------------160
6 -------------165

Seriously low compression compared to the other cylinders in that #1.
I read a cylinder need 90 PSI to combust, if this is true, that is close to the psi where the #1 is sitting and would cause a misfire.

I thought i had a quart of oil laying around to do a wet test but couldn't find it. So all i got today was the dry test.

I have been reading up and know that i need to do a leakdown test to find where the air is escaping. Also from what i read i believe i have a burnt valve in the #1 cylinder bc after i bought the jeep i had a few overheating incidents. Could be wrong on that assumption.

If anyone else has seen this before, please let me know how you fixed yours. I know every engine is different but i would like to know how you fixed it.

Also, I have removed heads before but its been over 10 years, so if all i need to do is replace the valves, What all would i need to buy for this project, I.E. gaskets, rocker arms, springs? I would like to have everything ready when i break into it.

Another question. If all i need to do is reseat a valve. Does the head have to be removed to do this or can i remove the valve cover gasket and just try to spin them.

Not glad to hear i have a cylinder with low compression but to be on the optimistic side of things, I think i am a little closer to solving the problem

Thanks for the info in advance.

And Holy crap that was longer than i thought it was going to be, oopppss

 

Revived for assistance

 

There have been a number of post on this forum suggesting weak valve springs are common on your year. Your low compression on #1 suggests this might be the cause. Apparently a service bulletin exists about this issue.