Also, the CCV 'thing' on top sort of broke. I shoved a tube into it and replaced it. It has a metering device - vacuum. That should not cause the failures? Or will it?

 

I tried asking the parts stores for the next cooler plugs but they don't do that anymore due to legal issues - Lawyers. So looking for a cooler range plug for Champion 412 or NGK 7252. One or two steps cooler? Anyone help me with that? It was also suggested to gap it bigger. Is that right?

 

For what it's worth I also put a 180* thermostat in along with the plugs

 

Thanks. I called OReilly's/Kragen (whoever they are these days) and they have the RC9YC. I read somewhere RC9LYC. Maybe that is why I can't find them at other stores. Is there such a RC9LYC? Thanks. Heading to get the plugs now.
I haven't dealt with the Thermostat. It's whatever was in there when I bought the car. I'll try the plugs and see what happens.

 

Good luck man, it worked for me. I tried every trick in the book and passed on my 4th try with this change.

 

Wondering if the PCV/CCV elbow on top of the valve cover is an issue? Broke that hose going into it but made a hose pressed into it to connect the vacuum. It is a metering orifice. Will it cause it to fail too?

 

Just changed plugs and looking at other things. I did not do a leak check on the new manifold. Thinking, "its new'. But I did today. Put a air hose up the tailpipe, and under low pressure. Checked the manifold, the donut. No leaks . While under the car, I checked the catalytic converter. Brand new. And there is a leak just before the catalytic converter at the joint but after the O2 Sensor. This still may cause a big time fail? Thinking there is a reaction in the cat and that it may increase the NOx produced because Oxygen is being introduced. Could this be the cause of the fail too?

I'm heading back to the shop who put it in. They will fix my leak there. The leak is at the joint where the catalytic converter is welded. Hoping that takes care of the problem.

Asking out there: Will this kind of leak fail smog. It is AFTER the O2 but just before entering the catalytic converter.?

When I changed plugs, the NGK were still white. probably too new to decide. But will see how the Champion RC9YC behave.
Thanks.
I'll go for smog this week after leak at converter is fixed.. And post results.

 

excited to see your results, my jeep has been sitting for almost 8 years without running constantly, so i know im going to have a hell of a time getting it smogged. stupid dmv wont give me a permit to run it around to clear everything out, just a one day permit to go get it smogged. one day permit, once a day too, so not even like i can get a couple and run around a couple of days. stupid CA......

 

That is how it goes with the dmv, ca. I go thru AAA. They give you a form. Fill everything out and are allowed to leave the date blank. I've been getting permits like this for 3 months. Isn't ca just &^%%& great.

First thing to do is check for manifold leaks. I did a simple put an air hose in the tailpipe, felt around the manifold, pipe etc.... Don't get burned with this way. Used some gas Snoop liquid (basically a soap solution). Found the leak right away. Couldn't believe all the cracked manifolds for jeeps. So many in the salvage yards. That is probably why they are there. Those owners gave up. I pulled a few manifolds. CRACKED. Kept one, welded it. But too many cracks. Bought a new one. Should have reinforced welded it but wanted to get this beast smogged. Deal with the manifold 5 to 10 years down the road.

 

i would really like to just get new headers and call it good, but they all say for 91+. the only ones that make a specific design is pace setter........ and id rather run cracked stock that get pace setter anything. i know that the 91+ designs should fit, but mr johny law in ca will have a conip**** if it wasnt ment for my vehicle.
i played that game racing.....um i mean, being a honda enthusiast, in high school.

 

Went back to the weld shop and had them weld up the leak before the cat. Turns out it was the cat itself. Bad weld by the manufacturer. Weld it up. Drove it about 60 miles and did a cat test with temp in/out difference. Looks ok, about 100 degree difference.
Went to smog. Fail again. This time I think my fault. I was going to hot wire the electric fan on for smog in addition to their fan in front to keep the engine temps down. STUPID ME !! I pulled the fan plug to see what wires I need. Forgot to plug it in. So it ran hot. No way was it going to pass. So Tonight I will rig in a hot wire to the fan. Is it straight 12V? I can direct connect to the battery for the test?
Then bought a 160F thermostat and I will put that in tonight. Then tomorrow morning before hits the 90/100F temps, I'll do smog. Also, adding more antifreeze, another gallon because I think I did a low mixture when I refilled it.
I'm open to other suggestions. I'm hoping didn't wipe out my O2 Sensor- New . I checked the resistance in the Coolant sensor per an article I read. At approx 212F, reads about 550 Ohms. Seems ok.
When I unplugged the MAT sensor, it idled like crap and kept dying. Plugged it in, and ran and idled fime. So guessing MAT sensor ok?
I'm still thinking about that CCV on the valve cover in the back. The connecting hose broke so I shoved a 1/4 in ID hose in it and connected to the valve cover. Thinking I should cut that hose and put in a smaller ID plastic hose in between and connect using the larger hose. It's a metering device and i believe the metering device is in the bottom of that elbow. But maybe too big a diameter hose connecting to the valve cover. Help? Am I thinking too hard?

 

.Interesting side bar on emissions someone sent me,

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h56.pdf

 

Is a 160F thermostat too low?.

 

How do you test the fuel pressure regulator? Could that be my problem?

 

Yeah 160 is too low. Factory calls for 195.

You need a fuel pressure meter, hooks up to te little valve on the fuel rail. Some places rent these, others have em cheap.