Dana 35 out, (don't shout at me) Dana 35 in
#1
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 1,577
Likes: 279
From: United Kingdom
Year: 1995 RHD
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0l
Dana 35 out, (don't shout at me) Dana 35 in
I could only really get another D35 and by my luck, the local scrap yard had just crushed an XJ but kept both axles. £100 and repairing the shock mounts and my noisey rear is resolved.
#3
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 1,577
Likes: 279
From: United Kingdom
Year: 1995 RHD
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0l
Both had 3.55 on the tag however I did not check anything on the crown wheel. I will check my speed with an app as I know that my speedo is very accurate in previous tests. 4WD is never used so I shouldn't find any mis-matching axle issues as a result. My plan is to strip and rebuild my old one anyway so if there is any difference, it should be resolved in the future.
#4
Old fart with a wrench
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 14,398
Likes: 729
From: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Okay, just remember if they are not the same and you drop it into 4wd, you will trash the t/case. Like probably split it wide open! AFAIK, they only came with possibly 2 ratios, 3.55 or 3.73 with the tow package. At least that's with ZJs.
Having said that, my 2000 XJ has 3.55 and the tow package, but it has the 8.25 rear.
Having said that, my 2000 XJ has 3.55 and the tow package, but it has the 8.25 rear.
Last edited by dave1123; 06-08-2019 at 02:44 PM.
#6
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 1,577
Likes: 279
From: United Kingdom
Year: 1995 RHD
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0l
I certainly didn't notice any bend, the half shaft does have a slight wobble on that side though. Looking at another picture I have, I think most of the "bend" is actually a build up of body underseal and mud crusted on.
#7
I advise to do:
* mark the pinion flange and axle, verify by turning it is 43/12 (I think, or whatever 3.55 is supposed to be)
* inspect the pumpkin/axle tube junction for damage or leaks
* using a long straight edge, verify the axle tubes are straight
* mark the pinion flange and axle, verify by turning it is 43/12 (I think, or whatever 3.55 is supposed to be)
* inspect the pumpkin/axle tube junction for damage or leaks
* using a long straight edge, verify the axle tubes are straight
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