Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here XJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.

Dana 60 rear full floater?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-21-2010 | 08:31 PM
  #16  
huntingman2706217's Avatar
MJ>XJ
 
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 17,836
Likes: 5
From: Griffin, G.A.
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
Default

Originally Posted by RyanCherokee77
Wouldn't I have to run like 40s to clear the 14bolt?
No but wheel size is a problem... 14 bolts are heavy and bulkey... no good... 60's are awesome for a Cherokee but a 9 in is even better... I think its funny of the comment about breaking axles with a 60 and 37's... first of all not many people run 37's on a Cherokee... and second of all I her they were in full sized heavy trucks with SBC power... think smarter... a stock 60 is fine for any Cherokee... however a 9in is comparable in strength as the 60 and Much much lighter... aftermarket world is crazy for them... and there a dime a dozen as well... any three of these axles your should be able to get off Craigslist for $150 or less ready to drive... in my opinion a 8.8 is plenty for anything with 4.0... and makes much much more sense... same width... aftermatket parts everywhere... same bolt pattern... disc brakes... limited slip... and some had 4.56's already...
Old 12-21-2010 | 08:41 PM
  #17  
xjmarc's Avatar
CF Veteran
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 5,420
Likes: 0
From: Soddy Daisy TN
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default

If you get lucky you can find the Chevy version of the rear 60 and they can be had with factory 4.56s. I shaved about an inch off the bottom of mine and have about the same clearance as a 9".
Old 12-21-2010 | 09:04 PM
  #18  
RyanCherokee77's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: new Jersey
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
Default

What trucks would have the ford 9 and is the front for them a hp 44? What would be the biggest those axles can handle
Old 12-21-2010 | 09:12 PM
  #19  
xjmarc's Avatar
CF Veteran
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 5,420
Likes: 0
From: Soddy Daisy TN
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default

The 9" if well built will easily hold 40s locked but the 44 with chromos is good with 38s. Stock 36s would be fine unless you beat on it. The weakest part of the 9" is the center section but you can replace it with a nodular one and spline counts go up to 40 but 35 is plenty strong. And yes the HP 44 was matched to the 9" from around 76 to 79. Ford went to TTB in 80 and 44s prior to 76 were close knuckle, and some are low pinion and have drum brakes. The 9" was used into the 80s. Early versions have 28 splines and later have 31 and the more desirable big bearings. Most 78-79 1/2 ton 44s have cast wedges and unless you plan on using the ford radius arms they are worthless because there is no tube under the wedges.
Old 12-21-2010 | 09:15 PM
  #20  
RyanCherokee77's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: new Jersey
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
Default

So in order for the 44 to work up front id either have to lose my stock steering or fab something to retain the steering the way it is?
Old 12-21-2010 | 09:21 PM
  #21  
xjmarc's Avatar
CF Veteran
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 5,420
Likes: 0
From: Soddy Daisy TN
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default

Yes. A full width axle is at least 6" wider (mine was almost 8" wider) so a new drag link and tie rod are needed. If you can get the factory ones they will work till you can fab up something better. I ran the stock F250 drag link and tie rod for a few months, had to use a taper on the pitman arm to fit the one ton tie rod end. I now run all heims but not sure if they are technically legal for a street driven vehicle.
Old 12-21-2010 | 09:32 PM
  #22  
RyanCherokee77's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: new Jersey
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
Default

Ok so ii were to use the steering on a full width from axle..will those parts bolt up relativly easy? And should a do a steering box brace?
Old 12-21-2010 | 11:42 PM
  #23  
alloutperform's Avatar
CF Veteran
 
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,140
Likes: 1
From: cape cod ma.
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
Default

happiest axles a the one i have at the back of my shop (IMO) 67 bronco 9in with the matching 44 front, they have a great track width and are plenty beefy....yes the 14 is big but it's strong all 1ton axles are and shouldn't be run with less then 35s for clearance...
Old 12-22-2010 | 06:16 AM
  #24  
RyanCherokee77's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: new Jersey
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
Default

I really like the way fullwidths look. I think I want to stick with them. Are 35s with 60s ok or should I go bigger
Old 12-22-2010 | 07:14 AM
  #25  
huntingman2706217's Avatar
MJ>XJ
 
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 17,836
Likes: 5
From: Griffin, G.A.
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
Default

Originally Posted by xjmarc
The 9" if well built will easily hold 40s locked but the 44 with chromos is good with 38s. Stock 36s would be fine unless you beat on it. The weakest part of the 9" is the center section but you can replace it with a nodular one and spline counts go up to 40 but 35 is plenty strong. And yes the HP 44 was matched to the 9" from around 76 to 79. Ford went to TTB in 80 and 44s prior to 76 were close knuckle, and some are low pinion and have drum brakes. The 9" was used into the 80s. Early versions have 28 splines and later have 31 and the more desirable big bearings. Most 78-79 1/2 ton 44s have cast wedges and unless you plan on using the ford radius arms they are worthless because there is no tube under the wedges.
Not worthless if you cut down from full widths as well...
Old 12-22-2010 | 07:17 AM
  #26  
RyanCherokee77's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: new Jersey
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
Default

how are the drive shafts and pinions going to work? im a little confused on this. Will i need some kind of adapters or do i use my stock stuff, or do i use the new stuff?
Old 12-22-2010 | 07:27 AM
  #27  
huntingman2706217's Avatar
MJ>XJ
 
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 17,836
Likes: 5
From: Griffin, G.A.
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
Default

Originally Posted by RyanCherokee77
I really like the way fullwidths look. I think I want to stick with them. Are 35s with 60s ok or should I go bigger
I hope you know how much money and work all this is... I just sold two Dana 44's... one from a 76 Ford and one fully built for a xj from a 79 f250... I also still have the 9in almost done for an xj but I may be using it now that I bought another xj... I dunno yet... its been for sale... the d44's I sold for a grand and that was chhheeaaapppp I should have sold for more... sold in a day lol... but I got it for even less... the 76 I bought to build till I found The 79... its no joke and cost alot to build... locker $800 gears $200 install kit $100 chromos $400 warn hubs $100 spring perches $100 hydraulic steering could be $600... brakes... shocks... shock tabs... and then labor to install it all which cost more then the parts... and if your thinking its all easy DIY stuff your wrong... sounds to me like you will have to hire out the install of at least the gears... and hire out the fabrication of it all under the Jeep since every angle has to he perfect in order to get the steering angles right and keep from getting death wobble... the rear axles easier but still not cheap... I've got $450 in my 9in already and its gutted out still... that's just in parts I bought used but never installed... I still gotta get an install kit... put it all together and buy all the disc brake stuff for disc swap and weld on shock tabs... and I can't install gears either... that's $300 more bucks...

Point being this is no little job... I thought I was ready to take it all on but I just don't have the time... plus I want to wheel now and not a year later when its all finished... there's plenty of extremely capable rigs out there running 8.25's and Dana 30's... built right and with a driver that knows what there doing you can go just as far... the wow factor of having full widths isn't worth the $4k in axles under a $500 ride...
Old 12-22-2010 | 07:31 AM
  #28  
huntingman2706217's Avatar
MJ>XJ
 
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 17,836
Likes: 5
From: Griffin, G.A.
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
Default

Originally Posted by RyanCherokee77
how are the drive shafts and pinions going to work? im a little confused on this. Will i need some kind of adapters or do i use my stock stuff, or do i use the new stuff?
Add to the cost.... custom driveshafts... custom brake lines... custom parking brake... more wheels to fit the lug pattern... I could keep going probly... custom control arms... custom body control arm mounts and axle mounts... bumpstops... shocks...
Old 12-22-2010 | 07:50 AM
  #29  
RyanCherokee77's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: new Jersey
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
Default

wouldnt i be able to just cut off my brackets and weld them onto the new axle? right now i can only get a rear 60. You said an install kit...why would i need that? Cant i use stock axle parts on the new axle to save money. Also i plan on leaving the axle the way it is. I didnt think i needed upgraded shafts and all that. Im having a hard time understanding how its really expensive even when almost everyone says its a lot of money. I know gears and lockers are expensive...but where is all the other cost from to make it 4k like you said Sorry for all the questions but i gotta start learning somewhere lol
Old 12-22-2010 | 07:53 AM
  #30  
TheJerm's Avatar
CF Veteran
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,501
Likes: 4
From: Flint/Asheville
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Default

You need to spend more time reading. Hunting man has pretty much explained it all.

Install kit is to install and set the gears, which takes skills.

Its far from a bolt on and go ordeal


Quick Reply: Dana 60 rear full floater?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:15 AM.