Dana 60 rear full floater?
#16
MJ>XJ
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 17,836
Likes: 5
From: Griffin, G.A.
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
Originally Posted by RyanCherokee77
Wouldn't I have to run like 40s to clear the 14bolt?
#17
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 5,420
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From: Soddy Daisy TN
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
If you get lucky you can find the Chevy version of the rear 60 and they can be had with factory 4.56s. I shaved about an inch off the bottom of mine and have about the same clearance as a 9".
#19
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Soddy Daisy TN
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
The 9" if well built will easily hold 40s locked but the 44 with chromos is good with 38s. Stock 36s would be fine unless you beat on it. The weakest part of the 9" is the center section but you can replace it with a nodular one and spline counts go up to 40 but 35 is plenty strong. And yes the HP 44 was matched to the 9" from around 76 to 79. Ford went to TTB in 80 and 44s prior to 76 were close knuckle, and some are low pinion and have drum brakes. The 9" was used into the 80s. Early versions have 28 splines and later have 31 and the more desirable big bearings. Most 78-79 1/2 ton 44s have cast wedges and unless you plan on using the ford radius arms they are worthless because there is no tube under the wedges.
#21
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 5,420
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From: Soddy Daisy TN
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Yes. A full width axle is at least 6" wider (mine was almost 8" wider) so a new drag link and tie rod are needed. If you can get the factory ones they will work till you can fab up something better. I ran the stock F250 drag link and tie rod for a few months, had to use a taper on the pitman arm to fit the one ton tie rod end. I now run all heims but not sure if they are technically legal for a street driven vehicle.
#23
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,140
Likes: 1
From: cape cod ma.
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
happiest axles a the one i have at the back of my shop (IMO) 67 bronco 9in with the matching 44 front, they have a great track width and are plenty beefy....yes the 14 is big but it's strong all 1ton axles are and shouldn't be run with less then 35s for clearance...
#25
MJ>XJ
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 17,836
Likes: 5
From: Griffin, G.A.
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
Originally Posted by xjmarc
The 9" if well built will easily hold 40s locked but the 44 with chromos is good with 38s. Stock 36s would be fine unless you beat on it. The weakest part of the 9" is the center section but you can replace it with a nodular one and spline counts go up to 40 but 35 is plenty strong. And yes the HP 44 was matched to the 9" from around 76 to 79. Ford went to TTB in 80 and 44s prior to 76 were close knuckle, and some are low pinion and have drum brakes. The 9" was used into the 80s. Early versions have 28 splines and later have 31 and the more desirable big bearings. Most 78-79 1/2 ton 44s have cast wedges and unless you plan on using the ford radius arms they are worthless because there is no tube under the wedges.
#26
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: new Jersey
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
how are the drive shafts and pinions going to work? im a little confused on this. Will i need some kind of adapters or do i use my stock stuff, or do i use the new stuff?
#27
MJ>XJ
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 17,836
Likes: 5
From: Griffin, G.A.
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
Originally Posted by RyanCherokee77
I really like the way fullwidths look. I think I want to stick with them. Are 35s with 60s ok or should I go bigger
Point being this is no little job... I thought I was ready to take it all on but I just don't have the time... plus I want to wheel now and not a year later when its all finished... there's plenty of extremely capable rigs out there running 8.25's and Dana 30's... built right and with a driver that knows what there doing you can go just as far... the wow factor of having full widths isn't worth the $4k in axles under a $500 ride...
#28
MJ>XJ
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 17,836
Likes: 5
From: Griffin, G.A.
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
Originally Posted by RyanCherokee77
how are the drive shafts and pinions going to work? im a little confused on this. Will i need some kind of adapters or do i use my stock stuff, or do i use the new stuff?
#29
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: new Jersey
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
wouldnt i be able to just cut off my brackets and weld them onto the new axle? right now i can only get a rear 60. You said an install kit...why would i need that? Cant i use stock axle parts on the new axle to save money. Also i plan on leaving the axle the way it is. I didnt think i needed upgraded shafts and all that. Im having a hard time understanding how its really expensive even when almost everyone says its a lot of money. I know gears and lockers are expensive...but where is all the other cost from to make it 4k like you said Sorry for all the questions but i gotta start learning somewhere lol
#30
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,501
Likes: 4
From: Flint/Asheville
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
You need to spend more time reading. Hunting man has pretty much explained it all.
Install kit is to install and set the gears, which takes skills.
Its far from a bolt on and go ordeal
Install kit is to install and set the gears, which takes skills.
Its far from a bolt on and go ordeal