I named off a ton of parts as to why it cost so much... start pricing parts and labor an you will see... seen if u left it stock its still high... still need a custom driveshaft... custom brake line... parking brake... and no you cannot cut off the stock structure and reuse it... not only is it weak in the first place its even weaker when cut off... you'll never cut it straight... you'll never cut all the metal off you'll need... and when u do a axle swap there is no point to do the swap if your going to leave it stock... that makes no sense at all... defeats the whole reason to swap...

 

ive been reading non stop for a loooong time. Its just easier for me to grasp it when i can ask specific questions. i can understand people getting annoyed by all the questions...but then why be on the forum right? But thanks anyway on what the install kit was to be used for

 

thats true well thanks for the info i really appreciate all the time and info

 

you can run 15's on a 14ff and grind the 3/4 ton 44 calipers down to fit 15's as well. yes they are heavy and bulky but you can shave a ton off the bottom of them really easily and a disc swap takes a lot of weight off. i'd rather run my 44 with 36's (i did that on my old xj with no problems) than swap to a marginally better axle like a 60 or 9. i've seen too many broken 9" center sections and bent flanges to ever want one, unless i put a bunch of money into building it. and yes 60's are not great in stock form, the axles are barely bigger than a 44 and still 30 spline. don't tell me to think smarter, they break. it doesn't matter what vehicle they came in, jeep put dana 35's behind so many different vehicles that can break them in stock form. nissan puts a freakin dana44 behind a v8. chevy has put 10 bolts behind v8's forever... so you think smarter. just because it is done, that does not make it right. in fact arguing that a manufacturer does something right is funny because we spend most of our time fixing their mistakes. think about it.

i don't know why anyone would go to cl for axles, you must not have jy's around you. i got my xj44 for $88 complete. my buddy has found 2 hp60's for $200 which is usually the going rate for front axles... think smarter lol

to the OP: it sounds like you're in over your head. go read some full builds and witness all the parts that need to be purchased to get it done. brackets, joints and steel alone will really hit your wallet hard. once you get all that done it will nickel and dime you to death too... good luck though

 

Alright soindlike I've got some homework. Thaknto everyone foe help. If I have more questions...ill be back lol. Never done a swap so I have a lot to learn. Thanks guys

 

You can't cut down the 44s with cast wedges. There is no tube in the wedge area and the tube elsewhere is 1/4" instead of 1/2 like the ones with welded wedges or leaves. You would have to change out the tubes which would cost more than the axle itself. I paid $250 for my 44 out of a F250 with a Truetrac in it. Sold the Truetrac, geared a real locker (Detroit), put chromos in it, new hubs, brakes and such. I've got less than $1200 in it. My rear 60 came with factory 4.56s, welded it and threw some perches and shock mounts on it and done. I am using a factory drive shaft up front, swapped the yoke with a D30 (same spline count) and had my Tom Woods rear fitted with a 1350 joint and shortened about 2".

 

you're right, that's why i'd get a 3/4ton 44. they're leafsprung so there is plenty of room to work with once you cut off the perches. plus they are HD with thicker tubes and whatnot. also they should all have 4.10's (i've seen some random ratios before) to match the rear axle.

 

F 250s have 3/4 ton axles right. 60 rear 44 front

 

No, you wouldn't have to run 40s to clear a 14bff, but it you wanted to you could run 40s! What are you size tires are you planning on running on this Cherokee anyway?

 

yes sir, until '80 when they started using ttb+8.8 on the 1/2 tons(f-150,bronco) and ttb+sterlings on the 3/4 tons(f-250)

most people say '79 is the best year because of the location of the pumpkin, disc brakes, best hubs etc

 

U can cut them down... there is a member here that has done it! You should do some more reading... he was a vendor with a crazy build page... think it was endlessmtnfab or something like that... think it was him anyways...

 

Ok cool. Ani was planning on 37s. I have 35s now but I guess really I want 39s

 

sure you can do it, you can do anything with a welder and some steel but it's not ideal because they have thinner tubes. why not get a hd44 and cut off the perches? if you're set on 5x5.5 all of it swaps over and that's an easier and cheaper job than cutting and sleeving a cast model. think smarter

 

if you plan to go to 40ish tires just go with the 14bff you won't regret it and i would suggest a 60 front

 

Ya everyone seems to be telling me to do a 14bolt. What yearsandtrucks do those come out of