Hi all, My daughter recently brought home a 2000 Cherokee 4.0, auto, 4wd with a 148k on the clock. Motors seems to run well, smooth with decent power, it seems to be leaking oil from every possiable location. I have two questions what are the most common problems with these cars or what should I check? the car has some nasty sounds coming from drive train as in transfer case or axle bearings and I think the front axle joints need to be replaced as when turning the front wheels hop at lock to lock. Anyway any help in what to look for would be much appreciated.

 

you're right, it's probably the front axle joints.
as for oil, check the oil filter adapter. the o-rings tend to leak. if that doesn't stop the oil, check valve cover, then last resort, the rear main seal.

no real known problems, other than rear main, possible head cracking on the 00-01 years and sometimes the exhaust manifold will crack.

but that's about it.

hope she likes it and has fun with it. these are very good vehicles.

and post pics. we all like pics.

 

To check the u joints, reach under there and try and rotate the inner and the outer shafts opposite directions and then reverse that, you will be able to feel if theres any play in them. To help figure out the oil leak, I would suggest degreasing the area the oil is leaking and above it. Once it's all clean you'll be able to see where the oils coming from. If your thinking transfer case is making some noise, change out the fluid (you should be changing fluids anyways) and then see if the noise changes when you shift the tc. As to the most common problem..... RUST!

 

You're going to want to make sure the cooling system is functioning properly.
You don't what that one to overheat not even a little..

 

Keep an eagle eye on the level in the level of the coolant reservoir; check it often as the #1 symptom of a cracked 0331 cylinder head is "unexplained coolant loss"

I agree that you need to be sure that your cooling system is completely up-to-snuff.

Not all 0331 heads will crack, but plenty do. GOOGLE search 0331 head cracking and you will get hours of light reading.

Educate yourself and enjoy your XJ!

 

At 148K it's just getting broken in. Regarding the oil leaks: Start at the top and work your way down. The 3 most common oil leak points are the valve cover, oil filter adapter, and rear main seal. As others have said watch the cooling system as these heads are prone to crack between the 3rd and 4th cylinder.

 

How old is your daughter and is she single?

Agree with the post above mine.

 

 

Hahahaha!!

 

LMFAO That made my night, I thank you....Just my .02 here, but....It never does

 

Thanks for replies, will check it out once I get some space in my shop at work, car is not on road yet as she is just getting her liscence . where is the best place for parts other than my local napa and junk yard, Thanks again

 

You in the US have soooo many places to source parts, it isn't funny anymore.
But a Cherokee is probably one of the best things she will ever have brought home

 

Checkout: http://www.rockauto.com/. I've ordered most of my parts from them.

 

Here's a little outline for finding oil leak sources.






I'd be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF.

Everybody, who doesn't own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking.

Many mechanics, friends, people on Jeep forums who can’t see your Jeep from where they’re at, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it?

A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don't jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat.

Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons.

First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber's adage apply here. "$hit flows downhill".

Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first.

Revised 02-26-2013

 

First thing is to pull the 710 or OIL cap, look under it for any green goo to make sure there isn't antifreeze getting into the oil.