1991Jeep_Man

I am in the middle of my rear disc swap for my '91 XJ.

It got dark (because apparently I am slow doing this job and 4 hours wasn't enough). Everything seems to be going ok though; I got the pinion shaft bolt and shaft out (btw on a D35, or at least for my 91, the shaft bolt is 1/4") and got the driver's side axle out. All old drum hardware is pulled and the driver's side drum backing plate is off with the new disc backing plate and the caliper connected (almost, need to reroute hard line).

My question is this (or these):

1) When I took the pinion shaft out, I did so with a magnet and did not 'tilt' the carrier assembly down to slide out. Doing this, the hole that you'd see the axle shaft ends and c-clips is aimed more-so up. Will this be an issue trying to reinstall the c-clips? I know the carrier shouldn't rotate when the pinion shaft is out... if I need to rotate it, can I just put the shaft back in and light bolt it in? Or will it screw up because the axle shafts are out?

2) Will it be alright leaving all of it sitting as is for now? No brake lines are wide open and I gently bolted the diff cover back on with 4 bolts so it wasn't just sitting. There is still old gear oil in there (haven't cleaned yet). I just don't want anything rusting or the sort.

3) In lieu of a brake hard line bender, can the hardline be carefully manipulated by a steady and "not to tight a curve" hand? I already had to do this to get the hardline back up to connect to the caliper... I made sure to be careful and there are no sharp bends or kinks.

4) I didn't want to replace my rear studs the usual BFH way by smacking them out (also too loud for neighbors). With the axle shaft out, I can go into the shed. Will it be safe to put the splined end of the shaft on a wood block and pound the studs out in there (standing vertical)?

Thanks all! Also, I will say for 210k miles my rear seals and wheel bearings were good!

SuperRA

Can't help with all.

(3) yes, you can bend by hand as long as the radius is not too tight and there are no kinks etc.

(4) I would pound them out with a socket just beneath the stud (large enough so that the stud drops into it once out). This means you'll have to do it on a raised surface such that you can support the socket and axle flange without letting the splined end hit anything. Even a 2x4 cut just longer than the axle will do.

1991Jeep_Man

So the axle splines would be damaged by the wood?

SuperRA

Huh? No, this is the stack from ground up. Floor, wood 2x4(or table/workbench), socket, axle flange, stud. That way the axle shaft and splines never see any of the impact.

Or were you asking if pounding them out your way would damage the splines on a wood floor? Probably not, its just my preference not to submit the axle shaft to any unnecessary stress, I'm sure it would work getting the studs out.

hbracing13

With the c-clips it fine you can move them just gotta be carefull cause the spider gears will fall out. But if you take them out you can spin it all day with no worries.

As for leaving everything open stuff a rag in the axle tube and you'll be fine.

Either cut the hard line straight and flare it bolt it to a u bolt and use a flexable rubber line and its easier to take on and off in the future.

The that's fine the way your doin it or just knock them out and wait till you put the shaft in and then use a lug and some washer and manual or air drive it in. And lube the threads .