Blackout67

So ive noticed there's a long tube capped off in my engine bay. Jeep doesn't shift normally, I have to rev match it and shift manually or it's just constantly in overdrive. My friend said it was the TPS until I changed it for an oe napa one and it does the same thing. Well I went to check my trans fluid and couldnt find the dip stick. Come to find out thats what the capped off tube is. So I borrowed the dip stick from my buddy who has 4.0, cleaned off the stick really well and used to it on my jeep. Empty. Clean and dip again. Still empty.

Now I'm certain that the shifting issue is due to lack of trans fluid but I feel like it wouldn't be shifting at all. It's kind rough sometimes but smooth other than that. I went to put some atf in because I always carry fluid with me and my friend says if it's been like that that I shouldn't put any in there because it could mess it up some how. Idk much about transmissions but could this be why my shifting is messed up?

I've heard that flushing and replacing the trans fluid will strip vital deposits on some part of the trans and it will cause problems but I don't think running with any trans fluid is better. I drive it for 4 months with no fluid, guy I bought it from drove it for 5-6 months same way and he said I had the shifting issue when he bought it from the first owner who put most of the 267k on it. So it's probably a big issue

cruiser54

Just fill it per the instructions on the dipstick with Dex/Merc ATF only. See what happens.
You'll need about 4 quarts.

fb97xj1

Running with no fluid for nearly a year? I can only imagine the heat built up inside the case. Heat is an automatic transmissions worst enemy. Fill it and pray it isnt toast.

cruiser54

I wonder what the transfer case and diff levels are.......

exasemech

I doubt it had "no" fluid, torque converters don't work too well on air. But with that said it is for sure low. Get some dex merc in there till it's full per your new JY dipstick. And don't take to --mco for a $99 flush.

cruiser54

And check the other fluid levels and condition before we see a thread " My transfer case exploded on the freeway!!"

lawsoncl

I would start by ordering the correct dipstick. I believe the length of the tube and the stick changed in 1994. Also, if you're friend had a Grand Cherokee it would have a different trans behind the 4.0 (except early 1993 that is).

If it's trying to start in 4th gear with the shifter in (D), but shifting okay manually with the shifter, then your problem is most likely electrical. Best guess is either the TCM fuse is blown, you have a bad solenoid in the transmission, or damaged wiring. Do you have any check engine codes, such as P0700?

Here's a writeup with a bunch of info and pictures. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/tcu...lem-xj-226158/
Start by checking the fuse for the trans computer, I *think* fuse 21 in the underhood pdc is for the TCM
Locate the trans computer under the passenger dash below the glove box. Disconnect the trans computer and check the following pins on the harness side.
C14, C15, and C16 should measure 11-15 ohms to ground. These are the two shift solenoids and the torque converter solenoid. A bad C16 would cause starting in 4th gear.
D14 and D16 - should both have power with the key-on.

robsjeep

My advice

1. Do NOT drive jeep until after next step
2. Fill to full level with correct fluid Make sure dip stick is correct for your vehicle, the level marks can be significantly different on dip sticks, so make sure you use correct stick.

3. Drive the jeep enough to get things full warmed up, maybe 10 miles, has shifting improved or is it still the same?**** if shifting is better, then before the jeep cools, drain the fluid via the drain plug. examine the dumped fluid, note color, odor, and if metal bits are in it****. a magnet can be used to help detect metal bits (ferrous metal) wave magnet close to surface, nearly touching and note if fluid sheen changes as magnet is moved. You can also use magnet thru the waste fluid container, specially is plastic, run magnet on outside of container bottom and look thru the fluid to see if fluid moves or not with magnet movement. a wide and shallow waste container is best for this, so you dont have as much fluid depth to look thru. Some very fine metal particles maybe normal, but bigger pieces of metal, or excessive amounts of fine particles are bad... also buy a new drain plug gasket when you buy the fluid, parts store should have them. better to buy now and find old gasket is good, than not buy and find old gasket is shot

4. Refill to capacity with new fluid then drive. if tranny is very dirty, clean it with some degreaser so that if she leaks it will be easy to see source to the leak. drive and stop frequently to check fluid level, and look for signs of leaks. Note is she now shifts or not.

5. If no leaks, and fluid level stays put for say 10 to 40 miles, and she is shifting better, then repeat the drain procedure, drain when warmed up, then refill with fresh fluid, again note condition of the waste fluid.
OR...
If you find leaks, then fix them, then repeat the fluid change.
OR if there is no improvement in shifting, see note below****

6. Drive again 10 to 40 miles or so, then change fluid last time, but this time drop the pan for the fluid change, you will need a new pan gasket and pan filter.

again examine the waste fluid and the pan and filter. report findings, take photos to post


the reason for three fluid changes is to remove all the fluid, as draining does not remove all the fluid so you got to do it several times to get most of it out. We want it ALL out for the fluid in there is likely very contaminated. I have you do the pan drop drain last so that the old filter can catch the most crud before you install the new one.

NOTE
**** Now if on the draining of fluid you find large metal chunks, (take photos) or on the drive tests after fluid is filled she still refuses to shift, with no improvememt what so ever despite the correct flujd level you may decide to stop with further fluid changes as the fluid cost money and time, and the fact maybe the tranny is dead and requires servicing of the insides, so why waste one or two more fluid changes on a tranny that is going have to be taken apart to get fixed? Of course you may still want to do a second fluid change if you found the first change waste fluid to be bery sludgy, as recall, not all the fluid is drained each time, so that very sludgy fluid may take at least two changes to get enough out of the system to allow things to work. so factor that in.

I dont want you wasting three fluid changes on a lost cause tranny. But if shifting improves, Id do no less than three fluid changes, with the pan drop and new filter to assure all old fluid is gone, and it is cleaned as possible inside. I wish you good luck.

Blackout67

You know what my friends jeep was a WJ. I thought they came with aw4s. Maybe that's where the descrepency came from?. But it probably wouldn't read dry would it

lawsoncl

The WJs all have Chrysler transmissions, instead of the fairly robust AW4. If you hadn't been able to shove a different stick in there, I would have suggested checking that the remains of the old one were not still in the tube. Here's a link for a replacement off Amazon.

So, once you get it replaced, I'm guessing you'll be able to brag that your dipstick is a few inches longer than your friends. But until then , he can just call you dipstick-less. Maybe someone here with a 1999 XJ will pop their hood and measure their dipstick so you can compare? A measurement from the base to the marks would let you improvise a dipstick with a length of wire.

Blackout67

Probably will end up ordering a new one off rock auto. It's just sitting at my friend's house rn getting ready for pretty much whole new cooling system except new rad

Blackout67

Only lights I have are abs and cel for emissions. But I have led headlights and no cat. Most research I've done has led me to believe it is the shift solenoid. But I don't have it with me at the moment so I can't check their impedance