Dielectric grease
The following 2 users liked this post by country2:
318SixPack (09-30-2019),
BlueRidgeMark (10-01-2019)
09-30-2019, 06:56 PM
#17
CF Veteran
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lost in the wilds of Virginia
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Hee hee! 
Yes, he posted that at me more than once, I think. He knew an awful lot about Cherokee electrical systems, but he refused to learn the facts on dielectric grease.
Yeah, he also recommends a massive ground cable to replace the braided cable on the firewall to head connection. He's wrong on that too!
Hey, even the best (and he is the best!) have blind spots.
Does that mean if I DON'T read the manufacturer's literature, the zinc particles are NOT there to cut through the aluminum oxide layer and get smeared into the aluminum?
(Yes, that's what you said. English has rules.)
But actually, that's not what they say. Here's what they say:
Tests have shown that claim is false. It does not improve conductivity. It does retard corrosion by acting as a sacrificial element. This retains conductivity over time, but it does not improve it as compared to a dry connection.
(Oddball fact: The MSDS tells us that it also contains graphite and talc, and that it is considered non-toxic, while at the same time being highly toxic to aquatic life. Go figure.)
That's what I said. It really has no business in automotive use. Dielectric grease is what people should be using. It is made specifically for this purpose.
Yes, he posted that at me more than once, I think. He knew an awful lot about Cherokee electrical systems, but he refused to learn the facts on dielectric grease.
Hey, even the best (and he is the best!) have blind spots.
Does that mean if I DON'T read the manufacturer's literature, the zinc particles are NOT there to cut through the aluminum oxide layer and get smeared into the aluminum?
(Yes, that's what you said. English has rules.)
But actually, that's not what they say. Here's what they say:
This has a twofold effect; it improves electrical conductivity and it improves thermal conductivity.
Tests have shown that claim is false. It does not improve conductivity. It does retard corrosion by acting as a sacrificial element. This retains conductivity over time, but it does not improve it as compared to a dry connection.
(Oddball fact: The MSDS tells us that it also contains graphite and talc, and that it is considered non-toxic, while at the same time being highly toxic to aquatic life. Go figure.)
That's what I said. It really has no business in automotive use. Dielectric grease is what people should be using. It is made specifically for this purpose.
Last edited by BlueRidgeMark; 09-30-2019 at 06:59 PM.
09-30-2019, 11:30 PM
#18
CF Veteran
What kind of forum member would I be if I didn't participate in the semi-annual dielectric grease discussion. Thanks for bringing it up!
The purpose of grease on electrical connections is (and has always been) to create a barrier against moisture and oxygen. Reducing the oxidation/corrosion that will occur on the metal contacts over time. Even standard multi-purpose grease can produce this benefit.
Dielectric grease was developed because standard grease will carbonize (build up of carbon) as electrical current passes through it. This can lead to increasing resistance. Dielectric grease greatly reduces this problem.
Grease is easily pushed aside by the metal contacts (provided they are in good condition), leaving only a boundary layer remaining, that most electrical current can pass through without issue.
In the rust belt, liberal use of dielectric grease is a must. Unless you enjoy the occasional crank-no-start in a dark parking lot in the middle of winter. An exposed dry untreated connection here will barely make it through a season of salt (many of the XJs important connections are exposed, e.g. starter, alternator, battery terminals, ground connections). I have oxguard as well, and rarely use it anymore, as it is generally inferior to products like permatex dielectric grease (oxguard is messy to work with and dries out too quickly - becoming a powdery paste).
If you work on your XJ, and don't have any dielectric grease in your garage. You should get some. (unless you live in Arizona, where no corrosion ever occurs for any reason whatsoever - it's just not fair).
The purpose of grease on electrical connections is (and has always been) to create a barrier against moisture and oxygen. Reducing the oxidation/corrosion that will occur on the metal contacts over time. Even standard multi-purpose grease can produce this benefit.
Dielectric grease was developed because standard grease will carbonize (build up of carbon) as electrical current passes through it. This can lead to increasing resistance. Dielectric grease greatly reduces this problem.
Grease is easily pushed aside by the metal contacts (provided they are in good condition), leaving only a boundary layer remaining, that most electrical current can pass through without issue.
In the rust belt, liberal use of dielectric grease is a must. Unless you enjoy the occasional crank-no-start in a dark parking lot in the middle of winter. An exposed dry untreated connection here will barely make it through a season of salt (many of the XJs important connections are exposed, e.g. starter, alternator, battery terminals, ground connections). I have oxguard as well, and rarely use it anymore, as it is generally inferior to products like permatex dielectric grease (oxguard is messy to work with and dries out too quickly - becoming a powdery paste).
If you work on your XJ, and don't have any dielectric grease in your garage. You should get some. (unless you live in Arizona, where no corrosion ever occurs for any reason whatsoever - it's just not fair).
The following 2 users liked this post by jordan96xj:
318SixPack (10-01-2019),
BlueRidgeMark (10-01-2019)
09-30-2019, 11:52 PM
#19
Seasoned Member
What kind of forum member would I be if I didn't participate in the semi-annual dielectric grease discussion. Thanks for bringing it up!
The purpose of grease on electrical connections is (and has always been) to create a barrier against moisture and oxygen. Reducing the oxidation/corrosion that will occur on the metal contacts over time. Even standard multi-purpose grease can produce this benefit.
Dielectric grease was developed because standard grease will carbonize (build up of carbon) as electrical current passes through it. This can lead to increasing resistance. Dielectric grease greatly reduces this problem.
Grease is easily pushed aside by the metal contacts (provided they are in good condition), leaving only a boundary layer remaining, that most electrical current can pass through without issue.
In the rust belt, liberal use of dielectric grease is a must. Unless you enjoy the occasional crank-no-start in a dark parking lot in the middle of winter. An exposed dry untreated connection here will barely make it through a season of salt (many of the XJs important connections are exposed, e.g. starter, alternator, battery terminals, ground connections). I have oxguard as well, and rarely use it anymore, as it is generally inferior to products like permatex dielectric grease (oxguard is messy to work with and dries out too quickly - becoming a powdery paste).
If you work on your XJ, and don't have any dielectric grease in your garage. You should get some. (unless you live in Arizona, where no corrosion ever occurs for any reason whatsoever - it's just not fair).
The purpose of grease on electrical connections is (and has always been) to create a barrier against moisture and oxygen. Reducing the oxidation/corrosion that will occur on the metal contacts over time. Even standard multi-purpose grease can produce this benefit.
Dielectric grease was developed because standard grease will carbonize (build up of carbon) as electrical current passes through it. This can lead to increasing resistance. Dielectric grease greatly reduces this problem.
Grease is easily pushed aside by the metal contacts (provided they are in good condition), leaving only a boundary layer remaining, that most electrical current can pass through without issue.
In the rust belt, liberal use of dielectric grease is a must. Unless you enjoy the occasional crank-no-start in a dark parking lot in the middle of winter. An exposed dry untreated connection here will barely make it through a season of salt (many of the XJs important connections are exposed, e.g. starter, alternator, battery terminals, ground connections). I have oxguard as well, and rarely use it anymore, as it is generally inferior to products like permatex dielectric grease (oxguard is messy to work with and dries out too quickly - becoming a powdery paste).
If you work on your XJ, and don't have any dielectric grease in your garage. You should get some. (unless you live in Arizona, where no corrosion ever occurs for any reason whatsoever - it's just not fair).
X 2 My 44 years of electrical work agree with this. No offense to the previous post about using paint or lacquer, but dielectric grease is much easier to remove from electrical connections than previously used applications.
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318SixPack (10-01-2019)
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