318SixPack

1996 XJ Sport, manual 242, 360,000 miles.

This freaking problem emerges every few years:
While driving, engine dies, tac drops to zero no matter what the engine RPM is, radio and other electricals stay on. This time, no codes either. The first few times after last week's alternator replacement it happened in a subdivision going 25 - 30 MPH. Same general spot and time different days after coming home from work. Today it did it while I was idling (over 10 min.) at the hardware store. Engine had a little stumble, then a few seconds later died. When RPM dropped to zero, it restarted and went back to normal idle. Later, while driving to another store, it did the same thing.

Every other time I have had this problem it was those four freaking wires that ground to the dip stick mounting bracket stud. All the other times I crimped. Used the cheap crimpers in the past, then got fancy last time with Harbor Freight ratcheting die crimpers. Now I have a new Weller soldering gun and going in with that this time. Had no luck finding rosin electronics soldering flux around here so got some online.

Might even crimp and solder the ring connectors. Clear marine shrink tube for all connections.

Really getting fed up with this issue. Chrysler should have done something about it back in the 1990s when those wire connections fell apart on their own.

lawsoncl

Sounds like classic CPS failure too.

Ralph77

When I decided I was going start soldering things instead of using butt connectors I watched some videos.
Never really done any before. I thought this one is really good.


I think this is the Weller soldering iron I bought.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Weller-5...C100/100130478

If you bought the gun type in that video he tells you a way to save money on the heating element tip so definitely watch it.

For bench soldering bought this:


But back when I bought it that only costs like $6.
I removed the magnifier and put some heat shrink around the alligator clips to not damage the wire in there.
Shot of my little soldering station. LOL.

318SixPack

Yes, have seen those and a few others. Did some soldering for that harness I made for the external voltage regulator, that has since been removed. That one I used the cheapest Harbour Freight iron and it already needs the point sanded clean before re-tinning. It really isn't powerful enough for 12awg wire either.
Just remembered the crank position sensor connection can sometimes give this problem. Will disconnect, spray out well with contact cleaner, replace the gasket if I have one, and see how it runs today.

318SixPack

Just remembered that. I replaced it once or twice, but the real problem was those grounds mentioned at the beginning. It cropped up again and refreshing the pigtail connection to the harness fixed it.
Going to try refreshing it again.

318SixPack

It did throw key code 11 today. Cleaned the connection, it was really tight without a gasket too. No visible damage.

lawsoncl

Nothing wrong with a crimped connection, but you absolutely need a quality crimping tool and heatshrink/sealant if exposed to the elements. I prefer solder and heat shrink myself just because it looks nicer and takes up less room, instead looking like a ham-fisted the quickie-mart radio installer was there. I absolutely hate the scotch-lok clip-on wire taps that these installers seems to love.

That is a nice video. A temp controlled 48-watt pencil iron is my usual go-to, unless I need a lot more heat then it's the 100-watt gun type and being careful not to overheat it (don't burn the resin!). I actually have a 400-watt gun, actually meant for soldering sheet metal. I also have an old Radio Shack butane powered pencil iron that works well in a pinch but I prefer the temp control of the electric benchtop pencil.

Ralph77

Yeah he explained everything nice and simple for me.
I like how he showed exactly what he used too.
I didn't even try to find the flux locally like 318SixPack did and then ended up ordering it online.
I found the exact stuff the guy in the video used on Amazon and just ordered it. LOL.
He has a vacuuming and recharging your AC video to that is pretty good.

318SixPack

Replicated the conditions when engine has been quitting, down to the same engine temp, speed, location, and close to the amount of run time since last start. No problems.

Sat for a long idle too, over 20 min, and no little hesitations even like I used to get.

Now to figure out why that connection loses connection over time. It is really tight, was rough trying to get it open. After reconnecting it was just as tight, and that is with no silicone gasket in there either.