Disaster, not really, but super frusterated
#16
Now I'm looking at a Carquest Core that also says it is Brass and Copper.Here's the link:
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...021%7CL3*15934
I bought the NAPA core a month ago so returning is no issue. Just don't want another crappy one. I'll probably go with the Carquest and see if I have better luck.
Here are the specs from the Carquest core:
Core Height:8 in
Core Material:Copper
Core Width:7.5 in
Inlet Pipe Diameter:0.625 in
Outlet Pipe Diameter:0.75 in
Tank Material:Brass
Thickness:1.25 in
Tube Material:Copper/Brass
Universal Or Specific Fit:Specific
We'll see.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...021%7CL3*15934
I bought the NAPA core a month ago so returning is no issue. Just don't want another crappy one. I'll probably go with the Carquest and see if I have better luck.
Here are the specs from the Carquest core:
Core Height:8 in
Core Material:Copper
Core Width:7.5 in
Inlet Pipe Diameter:0.625 in
Outlet Pipe Diameter:0.75 in
Tank Material:Brass
Thickness:1.25 in
Tube Material:Copper/Brass
Universal Or Specific Fit:Specific
We'll see.
I thought the only way we were getting brass/copper ones was either OEM or the Superior Cooling one.
Also I looked and the Carlquest one for my '00 and it is aluminum. No mention of copper/brass ones for my Jeep at Advanced.
Maybe it is just the '97 and up that you have to pay bigger bucks for to get a copper/brass one.
Last edited by Ralph77; 10-19-2019 at 09:03 AM.
#17
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 74
Likes: 15
From: Northern CO
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I'll let you know what it is made of when I get it. I'm more concerned about how well the joints are put together. I checked online for MOPAR core and they don't make them anymore.
#19
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 74
Likes: 15
From: Northern CO
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
#20
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 74
Likes: 15
From: Northern CO
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
New Heater Core from Advance Auto arrived today. Here is the description of what I ordered:
Core Height:8 in
Core Material:Copper
Core Width:7.5 in
Inlet Pipe Diameter:0.625 in
Outlet Pipe Diameter:0.75 in
Tank Material:Brass
Thickness:1.25 in
Tube Material:Copper/Brass
Universal Or Specific Fit:Specific
Here's what I received:
Spectra Premium Heater Core(All aluminum)
So the one I got from NAPA that failed at the pipe joint appeared to be all brass and Copper. This one from Advance Auto is all Aluminum and feels super cheap just because of the weight. As long as the soldering holds I'll be happy and hopefully get 5 years out of this thing.
Won't get to this job until Saturday. Can't wait to get it done!
Core Height:8 in
Core Material:Copper
Core Width:7.5 in
Inlet Pipe Diameter:0.625 in
Outlet Pipe Diameter:0.75 in
Tank Material:Brass
Thickness:1.25 in
Tube Material:Copper/Brass
Universal Or Specific Fit:Specific
Here's what I received:
Spectra Premium Heater Core(All aluminum)
So the one I got from NAPA that failed at the pipe joint appeared to be all brass and Copper. This one from Advance Auto is all Aluminum and feels super cheap just because of the weight. As long as the soldering holds I'll be happy and hopefully get 5 years out of this thing.
Won't get to this job until Saturday. Can't wait to get it done!
Last edited by Furrydogs; 10-22-2019 at 07:54 PM. Reason: Spelling
#21
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,097
Likes: 11
From: Tarpon Springs, FL / Denver, CO
Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
I sadly don't have the part number but I did get my heater core from Oriellys to replace the junky Spectra one.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/97...cement-219723/
It was a Murray branded unit but I can't find a part number for it..
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/97...cement-219723/
It was a Murray branded unit but I can't find a part number for it..
#22
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 74
Likes: 15
From: Northern CO
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I sadly don't have the part number but I did get my heater core from Oriellys to replace the junky Spectra one.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/97...cement-219723/
It was a Murray branded unit but I can't find a part number for it..
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/97...cement-219723/
It was a Murray branded unit but I can't find a part number for it..
I checked out your link and saw the write up you did, thanks for providing that. I'll be doing the install this weekend so might have to ask you some questions if I run into any snags. Not sure if you read this whole thread but I had the HVAC box completely installed when I discovered the leak from my new heater core. Since I was able to get the HVAC box installed I'm thinking the rest of the job putting the dash back together should be pretty easy.
#23
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 74
Likes: 15
From: Northern CO
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Yesterday afternoon I finished installing the HVAC box and putting the dashboard and center console all back together. I took the Jeep on a 80 mile round trip on a cool night and the heat works and doesn't leak....yet.
The heater isn't terribly warm but works good enough and should do ok even in below 0 temps. I believe it isn't that warm since I just remembered I didn't replace the insulation insert around the core that touches the evap box when it's all put back together. Since that insulation isn't there I suppose the heat isn't trapped around the core as nicely as it was before.
Some people that have done this job said that putting the HVAC box back in and bolted up to the firewall was the biggest pain. I thought lining up all of the dash holes and then also lining up those damn metal trim clips were a PIA. I had to use a magnet sometimes to keep the clips from falling out of the hole while lining up the dash. Part the problem was probably lack of experience and not knowing which bolts to tighten first. I actually ended up not putting a bolt in that goes from the dash to firewall just below the windshield on the driver's side. It seemed pretty secure without it and I was tired of fighting the clip that wouldn't line up.
I hope this job is done for 10 years.Unfortunately if I have to do it again in ten years I probably won't be able to contort my body like I did this time fighting with all of the odd angles.
Actually my last step is to have the freon added added back. Hopefuly I didn't screw anything up with the Evap stuff.
The heater isn't terribly warm but works good enough and should do ok even in below 0 temps. I believe it isn't that warm since I just remembered I didn't replace the insulation insert around the core that touches the evap box when it's all put back together. Since that insulation isn't there I suppose the heat isn't trapped around the core as nicely as it was before.
Some people that have done this job said that putting the HVAC box back in and bolted up to the firewall was the biggest pain. I thought lining up all of the dash holes and then also lining up those damn metal trim clips were a PIA. I had to use a magnet sometimes to keep the clips from falling out of the hole while lining up the dash. Part the problem was probably lack of experience and not knowing which bolts to tighten first. I actually ended up not putting a bolt in that goes from the dash to firewall just below the windshield on the driver's side. It seemed pretty secure without it and I was tired of fighting the clip that wouldn't line up.
I hope this job is done for 10 years.Unfortunately if I have to do it again in ten years I probably won't be able to contort my body like I did this time fighting with all of the odd angles.
Actually my last step is to have the freon added added back. Hopefuly I didn't screw anything up with the Evap stuff.
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