Thanks for the FSM update, I wouldn't believe it would be the sensors since the crankshaft one (which is on the transmission bellhousing) worked fine before, and the camshaft one in the distributor was brand new.

I may be going out on a limb here please follow me for a second I need your opinions. When I got the new CRT performance distributor, it came with a little white plastic dohicky (almost like a golf tee) which fit in a whole on the bottom of the unit.

This white pin stopped the distributor from rotating. I thought the pin was there so nothing got damaged internally during shipping.

I am not sure about the inside of the distributor, but from some pictures I saw it looks like the camshaft sensor sits right under the plastic lid and there is a metal shim that rotates around making contact with the camshaft sensor.

I took the white pin out right away and turned the distributor every which way but loose before installing it. You guys think I put something out of alignment with the sensor internally by doing this.

If that pin has nothing to do with the sensor, then I guess I'm on to changing the sensors. Really appreciate your help with this gents.

 

Also thanks for the tip on using nail polish with a timing light. I have no idea how to use a timing light though lol. Hopefully I don't have to take it that far.

 

Have you tried tweeking the dizzy one notch over both ways?

 

i got the exact same cardone distributor that you just dumped a load of cash on through rock auto, but i got mine at autozone for 46.99 and it looked brandnew and came with a brand new cam position sensor. so much for your high dollar parts theory...

 

and yeah you might just have to loosen the bolts and dial in the new distributor.

 

Man you got the cardone at autozone for $46!!! Can't beat that. I think I'm gonna try and tweek the Dizzy this weekend. By tweek do you mean shifting it a tooth counter, or clockwise??

I will also try and get a new crankshaft position sensor based on what the FSM manual said the code 1391 was. Thanks to whoever gave that info.

My awesome theory about the little plastic thing was total BS lol, So I'm back to square one.

While I'm on theories. Is it common fo the camgear that drives the Distributor to go out on these engines. The reason I ask is because the old one I took out had some damage to the teeth (I can take some pics), and I wonder if the skipping is actually the gears not meshing right. Just another inexperienced paranoid thought.

I cleared the code by taking the negative cable off for a minute, and drove it around the neighborhood and I swear it drives fine except when under stress like going up a hill, and if I get on the gas a little bit. It skips for a split second through first gear up to about 4th, then drives nice, but gets worse the longer and faster I drive.


I will let you guys know what goes on this weekend. I need a break from this thing so I don't use a sledgehammer on it.

Thanks again eveyone for chipping in and giving good advice. It really is appreciated!! Nice to know there are still some decent folk in this country.

 

Yes, try moving it a tooth in either direction... But try this first... Its a simple tweek on the TV cable which might help the lag in shifting https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/free-quick-fix-41821/

I would say check and adjust TPS but I dont think the HO motors are adjustable...

To respond to your concern with the cam gear and dizzy gear... If you end up popping that dizzy out get a flash light and shine it in the hole and take a peak at the cam gear as you rotate the motor.

Let us know what you find!

 

Ok I know I said I wasn't gonna mess with it till this weekend but I just want this thing fixed GRRRRRRRR.

I tweeked the dizzy counterclockwise from where the distributor was when the engine was not running. Also I wanted to show you guys the pictures of the scarred up old distributor. I took pictures but It wont let me upload them keeps saying upload failed when I try to attach them.


When I tweeked the dizzy it would not turnover at all which is way worse then what it was. I tried to put it back where it was and I locked my damn keys in the car!!!!!

Waiting on wife to get home from work so I can see if it will at least turnover. This keeps getting better and better. I am gonna drink a beer and drown my sorrows.

Also I checked the gear on the new distributor and it is showing a little sign of getting chewed. It may be from me pressing it inand out of the cam gear soo many times though not sure.

Thanks for all the help again fellas but I'm starting to concede man. By the way Cmartin I have a 2 dr sport which is a manual tranny. The TV cable post was good info though thanks. Do Manuals have a crankshaft position sensor as well? I couldn't seem to find one where it is supposed to be.

 

OK, P1391 Intermittent loss of CMP or CKP. I think you may have been 1 tooth off to begin with, or have a poor wiring connection somewhere to set that code. When my CPS died I scanned a P0320 Engine speed circuit which was a hard fault (dead in the driveway actually, I lucked out on that one!). A couple of things; are you sure the distributor you pulled and the one you are installing are fully seated? Can you feel the distributor drop into the oil pump driveshaft and is the driveshaft free of burrs? When you bring the engine to TDC on the damper you stab the distributor so the rotor is just "before" #1 plug wire on the cap correct? The distributor drive gear wear is usually due to bushing wear in the distributor base. Hopefully the drive gear is softer the the cam gear but shine a flashlight in there just to be sure it's not wiped.

 

This thread gives me pause. Rotation degrees, teeth, etc. Is replacing a distributor a complicated process? I want to do a tune-up even though my XJ runs perfectly. I'd feel like a real moron if I tried to replace the dist. and then the XJ stopped running entirely.

High risk job? Distributor and rotor? I've never owned a car with a distributor/rotor. I think the plugs and wires seem obvious enough.

 

Not the same animal. You will only be repacing the cap, rotor and wires. Not removing the dizzy. Relax.

 

Ok, so Renix Jeeps require you to remove the entire dizzy, but newer ones do not?
If there ANY room for error when replacing the rotor? What can go wrong?

 

Uh, no. No danger when replacing rotor.

 

All you gotta do is
1)Note location of plug wires in refrence to cyclinders.
2)Remove plug wires.
3)Unscrew retaining screws on dizzy cap.
4)Lift dizzy cap.
5)Pull rotor off dizzy.

Installation is reverse of removal.

If you spend like $25/30 you can pick up a haynes or chiltons manual and it will be a bit more discriptive.

 

Bimmer the tune up is childs play compared to removing the dizzy entirely. Matter of fact removing the Dizzy shouldn't be this complicated (just I'm a moron).

Seriously though I had to replace distributor because something was wearing down and causing a bad vibration/wine from my distributor. If there are no symptoms, Don't mess with it I say.

Update: I just found a dealership 25 miles away that has a CPS in stock. I will be changing that and reinstalling the distributor tommorow. Hopefully all will be ok and I can finally relax.