Chumperdink

Turbo thanks for the information as well. sorry didn't see your post.

BimmerJeeper

Why exactly do spark plug WIRES need to be replaced in a tune up? No other wires are ever replaced in a truck for 200k miles unless they fray. What's different? Has anyone gone 200k miles with a single set of spark plug wires?

Chumperdink

Ok re did the TDC and distributor indexing. For the life of me I cannot get the rotor to seat just before the #1 plug no matter what I do. I would say I'm at just a hair past the number one plug closer towards 6 oclock.

When I try and get it before the number one plug the rotor was seated at say 4 oclock, and the Jeep won't turn over at all.

When the rotor is seated at a hair past 5 oclock, she turns over and I can drive her around. I replaced the Crankshaft position sensor, with a dealership sensor, but the same misfiring, and stuttering reappeared.

My only other avenue now is to put the old camshaft position sensor or distributor pickup on. Also I'm begining to think it may be an 02 sensor. I have to get a legit scanner and check all the codes. Also the harnesses may have a short but I doubt it.

Thanks for the help gents not sure where to go from here but I won't be giving up. I'll keep yall posted just in case your still interested. I miss My Jeep!!!!

Turbo X_J

What happens if you pull the distributor rotate the crankshaft 360° stopping at TDC mark then stab the distributor? If you haven't tried give it a shot.

Chumperdink

Turbo, I like the path your going there. I guess that would make sense. When I bump the engine with the starter I tried to stick a hanger down in the #1 spark plug whole after air came out, but didn't get anywhere with that.

The spark plug tube is angled in such a way that the hanger needs to be bent towards 90 degrees to go down in the block. I am not sure if when I bump the engine and feel the air, that the piston has already reached TDC and when I align the Harm. Balancer at Zero degrees I may be on the exhaust, or downward motion of the piston.

Turbo do you know if I can turn the engine by hand and still get air to rush out of the #1 plug? I may try that as well.

Thanks for the new Idea turbo, I feel that it has to be something simple like that. I really don't want to pull the valve cover so it is definately worth a shot. I'll let you know.

limited91xj

I know I'm not Turbo, Haha, but yes you can turn motor by hand. I had the same problem yesterday and i was just 1 tooth off. Sounds like you might have a sensor bad tho. Have you checked your CPS or MAP sensors?

limited91xj

Edit: TPS not CPS.

CCKen

Chumperdink,

Here are the procedures for removal and installation of a '97 - '99 4.0 dstributor. Not sure if these procedures apply to '95 - '96 but I know the '94 has different procedures. They will apply to your '98. These FSM procedures have been modified to eliminate the 2.5L distributor. I didn't want to clutter up your mind with useless information.

Chumperdink

hahaahaha limited thanks for the input. I cranked the motor by hand and got the compression right on.

CCken that post was the holy grail of what I was looking for. Thank you for taking the time to post that. I knew that damn plastic pin had something to do with this!!

I followed the instructions best I could according to CCken's post and I'll be damned everything is up and running fine. No check engine lights, no misfires!!!!

I just want to thank everyone who took time to help me out. I really do appreciate it, I would have never gotten this thing sorted if it wasn't for you guys. I am glad I joined the site, and even more glad to find the good folk who participate on it.

I hope everyone has a good New Year and I definately owe you guys. Thanks again for everything!!

CCKen

See, knowledge is power.

Glad you got it fixed.

BimmerJeeper

Chump,
Can you explain what you were doing wrong until you read Ken's FSM instructions?

CCKen

Bimmer,

What purpose would it serve for Chumperdink to rehash what he did "wrong".

Chumperdink

Bimmer, If I knew what I was doing wrong trust me I would tell ya. It must have been a combination of things that I can only guess at.

On a lower note, the Jeep just now started misfiring again although no check engine light is coming on. I think I am gonna have to bite the bullet and take it in.

Ken thanks again for that info. I feel like I let you down hahahaha. I am just tired of rolling around on the ground in the cold weather. This action used to be fun when I was little, but sucks now!!!

I may have lost the battle but the war goes on. I will let you guys know if the shop finds anything, or what was wrong if they figure it out.

Thanks again for everything fellas!!!

BimmerJeeper

To know if it actually worked. So other people can avoid the same 2 week headache Chump had to go through. Sort of the point of all this.

Chumperdink

First off I want to thank everyone for all the time and help, you guys are good people!!!

I finally took it in and found out that I was off a tooth or so on indexing the distributor. Additionally, my problem went further. When we had a junkyard transmission put in years ago the mechanic only put three of the four bolts back in that hold the transmission to the bell housing.

This was causing the intermittent code 1391, as well. I guess when I put the new Crank sensor in it found that the trans was slipping, for some reason the old sensor was not picking up on the slippage? So after changing the distributor, Crankshaft Pos. sensor, and since the mechanic pulled the transmission to check the flywheel tolerance i had the rear main, and a new clutch put in, I am happy to say Big Red is up and running again. (Just Named My Jeep Big Red)

Also if there is anyone in Md in the silver spring area, I just found a mechanic that works at a Jeep dealer that does work on the side. the best of both worlds. Pm me if you are looking for a reasonable mechanic that has the right resources to work on our jeeps.

Anyway thanks again for all the help you guys take care. I'll probably be back on the forum in a few months when I screw something else up LOL.