TwoXJS

Well, can't test that since I don't have a working horn....Lol. I'm gonna install one soon enough, though.

F1Addict

Sorry to keep throwing things at you. Does your multimeter have an audible continuity mode? It should look like a little speaker symbol. If yes, place the black lead on a chassis ground and test for continuity to the white, dark green, yellow, purple, dark blue, and light blue leads. Each of those should tone as a ground with the key off and the signal stalk in the middle (inactive) position.

TwoXJS

I'll need to check it tomorrow morning. Way to dark for that now, but I will do it and get back to you

F1Addict

The test might still work. It depends on why your horn doesn't work. If it's the horn button on the steering wheel then the test will still work, if it's the horn, itself, then it won't.

No matter what, we have to figure out how to get 12v to that light green wire. I'm a bit stumped since we appear to have 12v on the supply (harness) side of the plug but not the load (multi-switch) side. There has to be a physical reason for that.

I'll keep an eye out for the results tomorrow.

TwoXJS

I'm confused as well. Even a direct connection didn't work....

F1Addict

If anyone else has ideas, feel free to jump in. Considering the horn doesn't work I was tempted to say clock spring but no airbags in '93 and thus, no clock spring.

I've got a couple questions:

1.) Were your turn signals working fine before installing the radio?
2.) Is your radio currently working?
3.) Besides your horn, is there anything else that doesn't work?

Tomorrow, try reinstalling that jumper from the harness to the light green wire then, with the key in the ON position, use your multimeter to check for voltage at both the light green and black wires. The rod-actuated ignition switch (mounted on the steering column) can be touchy and if the key isn't in just the right position, it won't supply accessory power to the multi-function switch. I just want to make sure that when we're testing there is power being supplied to each of those two circuits. Once we know that it will be easier to test the rest of the system.

TwoXJS

They worked perfect before installing the radio. Only thing I did was fix some of the cruddily done wiring and put it in. Nothing else that I know of that doesn't work.

freegdr

Pull radio check for cont on both sides of all connections you messed with . Check all fuses in fuse box yet for power in and out with key In run position ? Fuse panel and PDC under hood...

TwoXJS

All I did with the radio wires was resolder and shrink tube some of the wires. I know they all work since all the speakers and the radio work perfectly. I do remember there are a couple wires I didn't connect, one for the dimmer and another for radio illumination, I believe it is. Could these ones affect the turns?

TwoXJS

Well, even with the jumper reattached, still nothing on the green wire. Reads about .34 volts and thats as high as it got. I didnt't test the audible ground part since i got too aggrevated and had to stop before i ripped something apart....

TwoXJS

Okay, all but the purple beep when probed. Is that supposed to happen?

freegdr

Read page 8j-1......http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm

TwoXJS

I followed that guide, but no voltage at connector L, even with the key ON. It's black and goes into a bundle that goes up into the right side of the dash, but i dont know where from there. Maybe the gauge cluster?

TwoXJS

Anyone still looking at this?

TwoXJS

Bump. Anyone at all!? I really need help solving this!