okay, here I am once again, still on the subject of a rough idle on a 96 Cherokee, 4.0 engine w/ 163000 mi. on it. having been overheated 4x since 2012. twice, Super bad, smoke and all! in the last two weeks it has stalled twice,coming to a stop. I've checked for vacuum leaks to the best of my ability, replaced a hose and a couple of boots. replaced, front co2 sensor,(didn't do a thing) not the back one yet! did a complete tune-up. 3or4x since 2012 spent $350.00 today getting a complete lube at express lube. COMPLETE! didn't change a thing. the guy told me was probably timing and referred me two a mechanic. charged $60.00 to test it. I'm going detail here, as I don't know what things are called. as the engine was running, he unplugged wires from plugs, on cylinders # 1&2 very little sound change if any, the rest made a big difference. then he plugged some type of gage to them and at first they read around 130 psi. he then said it may be the rings fell and he'd try fixing them the old fashioned way to bring them back to place and poured oil into each. had me tap the ignition a few times with each and also try starting it turning the starter for quite some time with each, telling me not to expect it to start. so then he plugged the gage back into them and they were showing around 80 psi. he then plugged in a big huge hose, I was busy working the ignition so don't know where this hose was plugged into. he opened the garage door and had me crank the engine. truthfully, I don't remember if it started or if I was just turning it over. ( to many times of this not sure of the order) but white smoke everywhere, the other mechanic went to the end of the hose which led outside a couple of times and said it was burning oil. he listened to the injectors and said a couple of them were really dirty. last fill up i added Lucas engine and injection cleaner, no change, although the smell of rotten eggs went away. should i try some of this mk44 i read about on here? but i don't know what run the **** out of it means. I'll need some explanations as i drive very sensibly. it's never even been 4 wheeling. got everything put back together and told me I had a decision to make. valve & ring job which would cost around $6,500 or a new engine for 1,100+labor, ($5-$600 roughly) he said because of it overheating so many times, if it were him, he would buy an engine. he seemed like an honest guy, and my dog liked him which he's Leary of most people. this tells me he probably is an honest guy, not that my dog has anything to do with it, but I've heard some mechanic horror stories! I seldom have to add oil or tranny fluid, although it has two minor leaks. never smokes, ever! just a major rough idle since last time it over heated and ruined the cat. had that replaced, then did another tune-up. just last week it wouldn't even start, although it ran perfectly all the days before (besides the rough idle) does anyone have any advice for a novice? I'm in dire straights here. my car is my lively hood, I've went without one for 8 years. I don't want to again. I'm listening! thank you all*_*

 

Over heating engines is bad. Stop doing that.

Sounds like he was performing a compression test on your engine. Checking to make sure the cylinder walls are not scored. I don't remember exactly what the spec for compression is but 80lbs sounds very low to me, which would indicate a rebuild/new motor would be necessary.

Also possible that you warped the head from overheating.

 

I'm a little confused after reading the post 2X..... what, as of right now is wrong with the way it runs? Is it using any oil? Coolant? Any codes stored?
The overheating is a problem that should be addressed ASAP.

Does sound like he ran a compression check, but without the numbers nobody can tell you what it meant.

 

Not sure about these 4.0 engines, but severe overheating can sometimes break the top compression rings, which requires a major rebuild from cylinder wall scores & grooves etc...
The 1100 buck engine sounds better all the time !!

 

Grammer ***** would have a field day with your post. I'm not even going to try reading.

 

What sad times are these when Grammar ***** can't even spell "grammar" correctly?

Here's what I would suggest. If those are compression numbers, it sounds like you would either need a rebuild or a new block like everyone has said. But you don't have to spend $1100 to get an engine. 4.0's are all over the place. Check with a salvage yard, look on Craigslist, or even the for sale section here. I guarantee you'll find a strong 4.0 that you could swap in for way less than $1100.

But if it were me, I'd be looking at a nice swap. I'm thinking LS1 .

 

x2.....

 

REALLY ? You want to correct her/his grammar ?

"Get the plank out of your own eye before you point out the speck in my eye"...

 

I love dogs but I don't let them make financial decisions for me.

With that said, I agree with the other posters. It sounds like you've been hosed a little on prices but it also sounds like they/he was trying to do the right checks for you.

To run half way decent a modern engine needs a minimum of 100 psi. compression. If you are at 80 you're below the acceptable range.

My suggestion is this, in order of priority.

Where are you going to get a rebuilt engine for $1100. ? Are they using new pistons or are they simply doing a "re-fresh" job? What kind of warranty are they giving with it? Who is selling it? Are they a known rebuilder? Is the warranty in writing? I deal with a co. called Marshall's in Maine. Last engine I bought from them was a '97 Chevy 350 for $1250. included shipping. They gave me a 40,000k mile/4 year warranty. Their 4.0L is $1395.

A 4.0 at Jasper is $2900.

If you are sure of the company and their warranty GO for the rebuild.

If you are scrimping go to a junk yard. Get a written warranty for say 30 days and ask for a written compression test. Have the mechanic re-do the compression test in his shop before he installs the engine. If he can't do a compression test in the shop but not in the vehicle he shouldn't be working on your Jeep. If it's not up to snuff return it. You can do this with a private seller as well if they put things in writing before you buy. Same rules, let them know you are having a second test done and if it's not up where they say it is you'll be returning it.

Figure $600. for a good used engine and $650 labor, you're at $1250. used.

Rebuilt at $1350. plus $650 labor you're at $2000. w/ warranty rebuilt.

You have to do the math. Either way, you must figure in the following.......
NEW....water pump, coolant, radiator, hoses, thermostat. oil and filter and other various small parts.

I wish you the best of luck with it.

Dan


BTW, I overheated my '01 for the first time this AM. coming to work. I had to keep going so I stopped at a quicky store and bought coffee and several 2-litre bottles of water. I filled it......drove till it steamed, stopped and filled it......drove till steam etc. for ten miles. I have the non-TUPY head and I'm holding my breath on condition. I think it blew a top hose but it was too dark to tell this morning. I teach Auto Repair in a high school so I'll know in a couple hours if I'm calling Maine later today or just buying a new hose....

 

To OP. Here's my best advice to you and I hope you listen. Don't take advice from a quicky lube tech, there's enough evidence out there to suggest many quicky lube shops couldn't lube a bicycle chain without ripping off the customer. Try to learn how to at least check the basics and fluids maintenance in your vehicle. Ask close family and friends for a mechanic you trust and have the jeep towed there.

 

Fact is, posters lose out on lots of potential quality advice by using poor punctuation because many seasoned members will bypass their request for help.

FACT.

No one is being critical of the grammar.

The use of proper grammar is the choice of the OP and their results will reflect their choice.

 

The first thing you need to do is find a mechanic you trust and I'm not sure the one you were at is the right one despite your dog's impressions. Unless I'm missing something I can't imagine valves and rings costing $6.5K and based on the "new" engine prices he gave you I would suspect it's actually a used engine from a junk yard which I think others have alluded to. Nothing wrong with a junk yard engine but it should cost half the $1,100 he told you. Sounds to me like he was using that $6.5k number to scare you into the "new" engine option. Anyway, I'm not saying you don't need a new engine but I would look around for another shop, get references from friends and make sure you trust them. Lastly, what all did the lube shop do that cost $350? That sounds extremely expensive.

 

$6500 for a valve and ring job??!!??

I just put a stroked motor in for less than that...just sayin'

Go get some second opinions.

 

This ^^

I never said I was one, only that it made it difficult to read (at least for me) Plus I do believe spelin is different than grammer .
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grammar , no referance to spelling.

Pours oil in for "wet" comp test, of course it will burn oil after.
Mention of dirty injectors, OP might look into that a bit more.
Though you might have fried your engine overheating.

As to the dog, mine didn't bit the J.W. when they came knocking, but doesn't mean I agree or will join.

Was it the wobbly pops that made it difficult? Was rather late.

Almido: You have a tree trunk in your eye. What kind of auto repair teacher would keep driving a vehical SEVERAL times until it steamed??
Answer me that !! I hope you use your own example in future classes on "What not to do"

JMHO, your results may, and will vary. Don't care if they do or don't.

 

I was just screwing with ya. I agree completely, I had a headache after reading that.

Now I'm just spitballing here, but after thinking about it I'm gonna guess the OP had those quotes backwards and upside down. There is no way that a valve and ring job should cost $6500, nor should it cost just $1100 for parts. What seems more reasonable (but still a little off) is that maybe the mechanic was saying $6500 installed for a new engine, or $1100 plus labor for a JY engine with a valve and ring job installed. OP, I wouldn't blame you at all for misunderstanding. I've been boxed into going to mechanics before and it usually gets me so frustrated because I'm not seeing what's actually being done that I tend to mix up or forget what the mechanic says.