Do my 703 injectors look fully seated? (And a rusty fuel rail question)
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Do my 703 injectors look fully seated? (And a rusty fuel rail question)
Ok, so I just upgraded to 703 injectors and they are working out beautifully. I thought I had a lifter tick, but it turns out it was one of the injectors because it sounds buttery smooth now, and fires up extremely fast.
The only issue I ran into while installing was that after I got them seated in the injector rail, I went to try and fully seat them before bolting them down. One side kept popping up and it was hard to get constant pressure on the O-rings, so I decided to hold it in place and snug the bolts up, then torque them all down to 20 ft-lbs with the torque wrench.
Does that sound OK? They were definately not fully seated before I tightened everything down but I have zero leaks after about 20 miles or so. I cant tell if they are all the way in though (the o-rings were a really f-ing tight fit, even lubed up with some oil). I also cleaned the crap out of the injector ports on the head/manifold or whatever they sit on. Squeaky clean.
And on an unrelated note, there is some rust inside my fuel rail for some reason! Definitely on the injector, sleeves, but there are some rusty spots inside the rail. I am going to go to the junkyard when I can and get a replacement, but how can I remove the rust and seal it on the new one? Or is it not really a big issue? Not like a crazy amount of rust, but enough to make me feel like backflushing the injectors quickly if I do get a new rail.
Kind of makes me want to add a second fuel filter right before the rail also.
No pics of the rail, but here is how the injectors are sitting. All are about evenly spaced like this, but I figure I would ask some peeps that did the swap already because I dont want to burn my heep to the ground.
The only issue I ran into while installing was that after I got them seated in the injector rail, I went to try and fully seat them before bolting them down. One side kept popping up and it was hard to get constant pressure on the O-rings, so I decided to hold it in place and snug the bolts up, then torque them all down to 20 ft-lbs with the torque wrench.
Does that sound OK? They were definately not fully seated before I tightened everything down but I have zero leaks after about 20 miles or so. I cant tell if they are all the way in though (the o-rings were a really f-ing tight fit, even lubed up with some oil). I also cleaned the crap out of the injector ports on the head/manifold or whatever they sit on. Squeaky clean.
And on an unrelated note, there is some rust inside my fuel rail for some reason! Definitely on the injector, sleeves, but there are some rusty spots inside the rail. I am going to go to the junkyard when I can and get a replacement, but how can I remove the rust and seal it on the new one? Or is it not really a big issue? Not like a crazy amount of rust, but enough to make me feel like backflushing the injectors quickly if I do get a new rail.
Kind of makes me want to add a second fuel filter right before the rail also.
No pics of the rail, but here is how the injectors are sitting. All are about evenly spaced like this, but I figure I would ask some peeps that did the swap already because I dont want to burn my heep to the ground.
Last edited by investinwaffles; 01-19-2014 at 05:31 PM.
#2
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I definitely would not run that. Those aren't seated properly. There's a sort of "pop" you can feel when they're installed properly. The bolts are only to keel the fuel rail from flopping around.
It tool me a few tries to get mine seated. I lubed up the manifold orifice with oil and worked the injectors 'til they were good.
It tool me a few tries to get mine seated. I lubed up the manifold orifice with oil and worked the injectors 'til they were good.
#3
hmmm.. i just did my 703 swap.. and i dont remember feeling any kind of pop
i looked in the hole.. saw nothing special.. just a hole..
then i fed the injector down until i felt the o-ring seat/seal and bottom out
but no "pop"
made sure the rail was seated... tossed in the bolts.. no leaks..
i looked in the hole.. saw nothing special.. just a hole..
then i fed the injector down until i felt the o-ring seat/seal and bottom out
but no "pop"
made sure the rail was seated... tossed in the bolts.. no leaks..
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Pop is when the O ring is completely mashed into place, it's what happens when the last bit makes it past the bevel.
Now that I think about it, I could not get the injectors to pop into place when I had loose-fitting O rings. Bought another set (had NAPA Echlin, replaced with BWD) and presto.
Now that I think about it, I could not get the injectors to pop into place when I had loose-fitting O rings. Bought another set (had NAPA Echlin, replaced with BWD) and presto.
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OK, I will try to get them seated again tomorrow. I was using a minimal amount of motor oil (basically just a touch to wet the o-ring), and the fit was super super tight. I will try to lube up the port and see if they slide in a bit easier.
Basically, I want the rail to be fully seated before I put the bolts in? I will try some BWD o-rings if that doesn't work, but i kind of have the opposite problem. The o-ring is big, and I dont want to bend the rail trying to force them in, and putting the rail on after the injectors are seated isnt really gonna work. What about fel-pro o-rings (usually are very high quality)?
I ran it pretty hard all day, and checked for leaks with a clean paper towel (visually and by smelling for gas). No leakage, but they only have 40mi since install at this point.
Basically, I want the rail to be fully seated before I put the bolts in? I will try some BWD o-rings if that doesn't work, but i kind of have the opposite problem. The o-ring is big, and I dont want to bend the rail trying to force them in, and putting the rail on after the injectors are seated isnt really gonna work. What about fel-pro o-rings (usually are very high quality)?
I ran it pretty hard all day, and checked for leaks with a clean paper towel (visually and by smelling for gas). No leakage, but they only have 40mi since install at this point.
Last edited by investinwaffles; 01-19-2014 at 08:08 PM.
#6
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Yeah fully seated. Never bought Fel-Pro O rings, I imagine they'd be top notch like the rest of their products though.
I'm sure they don't leak now but they're just begging to pop out under vibration
I'm sure they don't leak now but they're just begging to pop out under vibration
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Aah damnit. Now I am just paranoid, haha.
I just forgot to take pics of the factory injectors close up before I pulled them out (they were definitely 160k miles old). But I assume the black plastic part is supposed to be recessed into the port and am kind of afraid to run these
And yes, I do have an extinguisher in the car incase **** hits the fan.
They were in there as f-ing tight as they would go without me being afraid to bend the fuel rail though. And why the hell is my fuel rail so rusty? Barely any rust on the suspension or body, and almost none in the engine bay. I am gonna grab one from the junkyard tomorrow and try to clean it up and swap in place though.
I just forgot to take pics of the factory injectors close up before I pulled them out (they were definitely 160k miles old). But I assume the black plastic part is supposed to be recessed into the port and am kind of afraid to run these
And yes, I do have an extinguisher in the car incase **** hits the fan.
They were in there as f-ing tight as they would go without me being afraid to bend the fuel rail though. And why the hell is my fuel rail so rusty? Barely any rust on the suspension or body, and almost none in the engine bay. I am gonna grab one from the junkyard tomorrow and try to clean it up and swap in place though.
Last edited by investinwaffles; 01-19-2014 at 08:41 PM.
#11
well when i was installing my 703's... i did expect some kind of popping sensation to let me know they seated... and i didn't get that feeling.. just kind of bottoming out.. i used a light coat of grease on the o-ring
So i took a stock injector with an o-ring.. and mashed that son of a ***** in there... i mean i really MASHED IT... not giving two ****s if i broke it... and it didn't feel ANY different...
im pretty content with the fact that they are sealed...
So i took a stock injector with an o-ring.. and mashed that son of a ***** in there... i mean i really MASHED IT... not giving two ****s if i broke it... and it didn't feel ANY different...
im pretty content with the fact that they are sealed...
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They were in there as f-ing tight as they would go without me being afraid to bend the fuel rail though. And why the hell is my fuel rail so rusty? Barely any rust on the suspension or body, and almost none in the engine bay. I am gonna grab one from the junkyard tomorrow and try to clean it up and swap in place though.
Regardless of how much sticks out, use the guideline of when everything is properly assembled, you should be able to start the Jeep and let it idle with confidence. Bolts only to keep it from flying around.
Also man... your head still has paint on it! WOW