Only place you'll get a nut out of an ACVW is a rod cap or the oil pickup tube...might want to check that out

 

that car is loonnnnnnnnnnnggggggggggggggggggg gone...

 

I took apart the intake manifold so could have the injectors tested but one injector is stuck to the fuel rail. I don't want to break the injector. Is there a good way to go about this? A little PB, WD40, some oil? I am also having the manifold cleaned up. I talked to the shop near me about the head and they said that the head is not wort reusing. He said that based on the heads history the metal is stressed and may crack if it were to over heat again. That and the cost of a new one is the same as the shop work on the current head.

 

I haven't seen anything that would stop me from using that block ether. I can't say having over 4 PPM of coolant in there bothers me ether, but I never use oil with "5W" on the label
I didn't mean to say there that yours couldn't be made "decent", the point was just it looks like that engine could run OK. Sooo, best of luck, we know how tough that can be!

 

Whoops! Coincidence ^ post! Stuck? I wonder if a rubber O ring turned into glue. Solvent? Mineral spirits? Gas....Might want to try to desolve it. ???No rush there.

A side note. Rubber and petroleum absolutely don't belong together. It might be fast, it might be slow, but the rubber will soften, swell, then turn to a gooey mess. Can be quite interesting, like those little "snake" things they use to sell at fireworks stands, in slow-mo! Viton doesn't seem to desolve in anything.

 

I will give the gasoline a try. I agree with you about the overall engine. It doesn't look that bad and probably would keep ticking with a couple if new parts. I just figure, the jeep is still Norma ready for the roads, I haven't registered it yet, and I don't need it running right away so I may as well take the time to build a the engine now so that it ts done and out of the way and should last me a long time with few issues. That's the hope any way. (the minuet I step outside I will probably get struck by lightning for saying that)

 

Kool, sounds nice. Lightning isn't always so bad Btw. A lazy assed buddy, didn't fix his roof leak, had water running down his headboard of his bed. Lightning went through his bed-springs, burned a little hole in his sheet and zapped him right in the ars! True story. Mosier was his name. He was fine, but a little rumpled that we all just laughed. (the headboard exploded btw.)

Just chain that head to the tow hitch, stand on it, and have your buddy tow you down a highway paved by people being paid by the hour. It'll be fine

Oh, wonder if they siliconed that injector. Might clean it good and pick at it with a dental type tool.

 

I have been going over the numbers and I got a quote on having the block checked and machined and and just that costs as much as a reman.... So switching gears so to speak. A nice shiny reman is on its way

 

Glad to hear you will have her up and running. At least now you will know what condition your motor is in. All you have to worry about now is what they've done to the rest of the Jeep.

 

Where u getting ur remaned engine and how much?

 

It is from factory engine exchange in florida. They had only one 96-98 Xj/yj engine so I jumped on it for $1350 delivered with tailgate service. I'm going to take my time here and do it right. Hopefully the engine should far out last the body. It's nice to start with a fresh engine. It gives an old jeep a second life. What is the procedure on "breaking in" with a reman? What quality of oil do I want to use? And should the first oil change be a short interval? Sorry for all the questions this is all new for me.

 

I'm sure the folx providing the warranty will have something to say. I was told years ago that Castrol and Quaker State where made from a higher "Pennsylvania" grade crude. No idea if that was true then, or now. My engine seems happy, 265K nothing but Castrol for over the last 100K. (can't tell you what WT, since it's "sudden death on engines").

Oil and filter at 500 miles is what my daddy taught me. Haven't heard anything different. Neat man! My 4.0 is going strong, but my rust free body is literally falling apart. Parked weird my hatch hit my taillight lens closing it last month.

 

I've always wondered if the reman motors were already "broken in". There's a very important proceedure for breaking in a new cam for these flat tappet engines.

I used Brad Penn break in oil (and will continue to use their conventional oil as it has the correct zinc content). Initial start up, once you know you have everything hooked up and working correctly, is to run the engine to 2000-2200 rpms for twenty minutes. I was also told to then run that oil for the first 500 miles then change it. That first 20 minutes was the scariest thing for me. You got to watch your oil pressure (get a mechanical gauge) and coolant tempature (I used an infared thermoter and checked the thermostat housing frequently).

Follow the manufacture's instructions. Some are very specific regarding their warranty (like requiring a certified shop to install the engine).

 

Where can I find a ing E12 WRENCH. not a socket, not a $40 ratcheting wrench set. Just one wrench for a reasonable price!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I usually check my Napa. Normally they can get what they don't stock, overnight.