Hello, I am going to attempt a JB Weld WaterWeld temporary fix on a leaking freeze plug which has made my 98 jeep undrivable. To do this I need to drain the coolant from the engine block so that it quits oozing out while I apply the putty. Can anyone tell me if just draining from the lower radiator hose (where it meets the radiator) will lower the level of coolant in the engine block enough so the coolant will stop oozing out? If not, any idea how I can get that coolant lower?
the freezer plug is behind the engine mount, and I can't do a normal remove/replace right now. I will have to wait until I have time and money to pull the whole engine for that.
Thank you to anyone with ideas or experience on the matter!!

 

What I'd do is pull off the lower hose, then jack up the rear of the jeep to tilt the front of the engine down. I'd probably give it a good flush first so any residual stuff leaking or otherwise getting the the way was just water. Wet or dried coolant won't help with adhesion of the epoxy. Sometimes using a shop vac to suck or blow (Mega Maid style) the remaining coolant out can help.

 

There is an engine block drain just under cyl 5. It takes a square drive end (I think 3/8") like the end of an extension or ratchet. It may not want to cooperate.

You may have another "drain plug" where the coolant temp sensor used to go on older models, although that bump in your pic could be it.

 

Thank you, I was curious about the shop vac idea, since I had seen a youtube video where the guy put it on the radiator cap hole. Is that where I should put it, do you think?

 

the freeze plug that is leaking for me is the second from the left, which is where you circled I guess the second drain plug? It's real hard to get to because of the engine mount being right there over it. Thank you for showing me where these are, I was curious about that but not too optimistic I can get them loose. The one on the 5th is also hard to get to. I think I will try the shop vac first. I'm attempting to leave the jeep together and fix it from below.

 

Suck from where the lower radiator hose attaches to the water pump, and blow from higher up like the heater hose where it comes out of the thermostat housing. If you blow in the upper hose where it attaches to the t-stat housing, the closed t-stat will likely block the air, hence the heater hose connection recommendation.

 

Thank you for this advice, perfect timing as I'm just trying to get the hose off now.
So far I cleaned up the plug with my dremel and steel brush attachment and you can see the little hole to the right where the fluid is coming out. I reckon I need to 'roughen' the plug with sandpaper before I try to fill it with putty.
Here's what it looks like. Is it clean enough, you think?

 

Hopefully this works for you. I had the same plug leaking a few years back, and tried the same "temp repair" and it still leaked. It leaked less, but still leaked.

That being said, I was able to change my freeze plugs without pulling the engine. I put my jack under the engine, removed the one mount and changed the 5 plugs.

I was told there is a plug on the back of the engine, but I'm maintaining the mindset of, "If I can't see it, it doesn't exist".

 

There a several similar "plumbers putty" epoxies available and something similar to what you plan to use is probably a good of a choice as any. I have had mixed success with putty epoxy achieving a leak tight seal. You may have a better chance of success if you can open up the hole a bit so that the putty can be forced into the opening for better adhesion. Be careful to not get an excessive amount inside the block as it could plug radiator passages. Avoid filling the entire plug level to the surrounding area as that may make it difficult to remove the plug in the future.

I would not venture too far until the plug can be properly replaced.

 

I have to say that if it is just the engine mount the only thing stopping you, then you should take that out

(and replace it while you are at it, the LH mount is often suspect)

All you need is an ability to get a straight hit on the new plug to seat it, so a socket on an extension

looks like you could get it out with a self-tapper slide hammer easy

epoxy to get you back on the road only

 

Those block plugs are 5/16" square drive and are difficult to remove!!

The only way I have ever removed them was to weld an old wrench to them in order to turn them. I'm sure the heat from the welder helped also.
Lower hose for the win.

 

Should be able to remove lower hose, then blow air through the upper hose or through thermostat housing. There is a bypass next to the thermostat (and a hole in a correct gasket) that should let the air through.

Photo from this thread: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/how-to...rmostat-399026

 

JB Weld is a great product, and I could tell some success stories. But doing a repair on the outside of a rusty hole, ..it's hard to tell if it'll hold. I'm thinking it won't hold very long. But if it's for a very short time, maybe. I would be more inclined to A) replace the plug right now. You don't have to hammer the new one in with a hammer. You can get a long bar and put between the suspension and 'press' a new one in.

Or, another option is to file the rust hole round with a small needle file, then insert a fine-threaded self-tapping screw in it so fits TIGHT on the threads. Use some RTV on the threads. If the epoxy doesn't hold, give that a try...

 

I'm leaving this here as a record for anyone else having this issue and seeking info.
Here's what happened yesterday. I continued to clean the plug then sanded it with 80 grit then cleaned it with mineral spirits. In the meantime I had removed the lower hose from the water pump and used my shop vac to suck some of the coolant out of the engine until there was no green in the leaking hole.
I took the stick of WaterWeld and broke off about 3/4" and kneaded it, then used this small patty to cover the leak, and I pushed as hard as I could to make some go inside the hole. I used the flatside of a chisel to get some leverage from the side and press it in. I then took the rest of the stick and kneaded it for a few minutes then made a bigger patty which I pressed into the plug, I used my fingers and the flat side of the chisel. I continued, covering some of the edges. This was because I had seen 2 youtube videos where the owners had done it like this and it held for a few years in one case. Almost a year and counting on the other. I let the putty cure overnight. At 10 this morning I put new coolant in and ran the engine until it reached operating temperature. I turned the air on after about 30 minutes and let it run for another 10. There were no leaks. The temp stayed at 210. The outside temp here is in the 80s.
At 1 I had to leave for work and drove for 20 miles in stop-n-go city traffic, which took an hour, then at 6 drove home the same way. No leaks or overheating.
I will update if and when the plug leaks or falls out.
Thanks for all the great ideas and advice!!! I am sure I will be able to use them once this ghetto repair gives way...taking bets on how long it will last...

 

It's always good to see people come back and post their results. When searching online, threads on this forum always pop up on the search, so it's very helpful to have some closure.