Drive with hatch open?
07-12-2016, 10:30 PM
#31
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
If you must do it, firmly tie the hatch down against the lumber. Leaving it up and unsupported just seems dumb. Even if the CO issue is as big a deal as people think, a short drive probably won't kill you.
The 4x8 folding trailer from Harbor Freight is the best idea. I've had mine for 10+ years, and it's still going strong. I've hauled wood, motorcycles, ATVs, car parts, and all kinds of other stuff on mine.
The 4x8 folding trailer from Harbor Freight is the best idea. I've had mine for 10+ years, and it's still going strong. I've hauled wood, motorcycles, ATVs, car parts, and all kinds of other stuff on mine.
I've hauled several loads of lumber on the stock roof rails with no issues. Hell I've put lumber under the rails in between to roof and the rails and not even had to tie it down.
07-13-2016, 04:55 AM
#32
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
IIRC, the XJ is made to be able to drive with the hatch open in a pinch. That's why the rear dome light can be clicked to disable the hatch switch so you won't be driving along with the interior lights on.
It's been a long time since I read my manual, but IIRC, driving with the hatch open was not encouraged, but for cases where it was necessary there were tips in there for doing it safely. Clicking the rear dome light to disable the hatch switch was one of the tips. Seems like it also said to make sure it's well ventilated (windows down) and to tie down the hatch so that it's not bouncing around.
I have driven mine this way several times with no ill effects, including a four hour drive from Atlanta to Nashville with my Jeep full of boxes of Ikea furniture. I loaded it up and tied the hatch down using the inside handle on the hatch and the loops on my tow hitch. I drove an hour with a Dana 30 strapped to a half pallet the same way. There was never any issue whatsoever with exhaust, and the hinges were more than sufficient to support the hatch secured that way.
I wouldn't be worried about the exhaust unless you expect to be sitting idling in the same place for an extended period of time. If you're driving, the exhaust might swirl up under the rear hatch, but with the windows down you get enough flow through to push it on out. Your exhaust is not going to fight a 70 mph wind on the freeway to reach you in the driver's seat.
I wouldn't drive it with the hatch all the way up with it completely unsecured. I don't think the hinges would fail, but it might beat the crap out of the struts if you hit some rough road.
It's been a long time since I read my manual, but IIRC, driving with the hatch open was not encouraged, but for cases where it was necessary there were tips in there for doing it safely. Clicking the rear dome light to disable the hatch switch was one of the tips. Seems like it also said to make sure it's well ventilated (windows down) and to tie down the hatch so that it's not bouncing around.
I have driven mine this way several times with no ill effects, including a four hour drive from Atlanta to Nashville with my Jeep full of boxes of Ikea furniture. I loaded it up and tied the hatch down using the inside handle on the hatch and the loops on my tow hitch. I drove an hour with a Dana 30 strapped to a half pallet the same way. There was never any issue whatsoever with exhaust, and the hinges were more than sufficient to support the hatch secured that way.
I wouldn't be worried about the exhaust unless you expect to be sitting idling in the same place for an extended period of time. If you're driving, the exhaust might swirl up under the rear hatch, but with the windows down you get enough flow through to push it on out. Your exhaust is not going to fight a 70 mph wind on the freeway to reach you in the driver's seat.
I wouldn't drive it with the hatch all the way up with it completely unsecured. I don't think the hinges would fail, but it might beat the crap out of the struts if you hit some rough road.
07-13-2016, 06:59 AM
#34
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 Cyl / 4L
Yeah, I have done it a few times with lumber, sheetrock, plywood and other things. But if was a short ride from HD, slowly on side roads.
The thing that freaked me out the most was how the outside sounds of traffic traveled inside and seemed to be right on me.
I built a couple of wooden racks that slope the materials up and inward so they clear the wheel wells for wider capacity and use slope to keep the materials inside. I keep these rides short, slow, and local only. I would never get on an expressway like this.
Here is a picture after the hatch had been untied from the lumber.
Not proud of myself when I do it because it looks really stupid and not fitting an XJ.
The thing that freaked me out the most was how the outside sounds of traffic traveled inside and seemed to be right on me.
I built a couple of wooden racks that slope the materials up and inward so they clear the wheel wells for wider capacity and use slope to keep the materials inside. I keep these rides short, slow, and local only. I would never get on an expressway like this.
Here is a picture after the hatch had been untied from the lumber.
Not proud of myself when I do it because it looks really stupid and not fitting an XJ.
Last edited by OldTires; 07-13-2016 at 07:05 AM.
07-13-2016, 07:10 AM
#35
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Only thing I would add is use something like a couch cushions between hatch and lumber to limit damage.
Leastwise here in Mi. anything up to two feet past rear of vehical needs a red flag, after that a flashing yellow light.
Leastwise here in Mi. anything up to two feet past rear of vehical needs a red flag, after that a flashing yellow light.
07-13-2016, 09:23 AM
#37
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: Golen 4.6L
By the way, regarding the hinges:
Back in the 90s a friend was handling craft services on a small movie set and was using her XJ with the older fiberglass rear hatch to transport food and beverages. It was sitting outside the location with the hatch up when a guy driving a grip truck backed into the hatch. The hinges didn't break, but the hatch did. It smashed the glass, broke completely through the pillar on one side and cracked the other so that the top edge of the hatch was still firmly attached via the hinges, but the rest of the door was just hanging by a half-pillar and struts. The grips unloaded the rest of the supplies for her and then gaffer taped the hell out of the hatch so she could drive it without fear of it falling off.
Of course you might have a different outcome with a 97+ steel hatch. The point is that those hinges are not wimpy.
Back in the 90s a friend was handling craft services on a small movie set and was using her XJ with the older fiberglass rear hatch to transport food and beverages. It was sitting outside the location with the hatch up when a guy driving a grip truck backed into the hatch. The hinges didn't break, but the hatch did. It smashed the glass, broke completely through the pillar on one side and cracked the other so that the top edge of the hatch was still firmly attached via the hinges, but the rest of the door was just hanging by a half-pillar and struts. The grips unloaded the rest of the supplies for her and then gaffer taped the hell out of the hatch so she could drive it without fear of it falling off.
Of course you might have a different outcome with a 97+ steel hatch. The point is that those hinges are not wimpy.
07-13-2016, 10:23 AM
#38
::CF Administrator::
Best post on this site in a long time...made me LOL
I agree, and was going to stay out of it until this:
OP, what did you expect? COMMON SENSE dictates you would secure the hatch down as far as possible with bungees. To keep it from bouncing around, destroying the struts, possibly the hinges, definitely the glass.
Since you have no internet skin, I will add MY real world experience. I, too, have 2 home improvement centers nearby. I have put stuff on the roof, and in back. Depends on what I need to carry. When putting stuff in the back, I fold the rear seats down, put the load as far forward as possible, and then (GASP!) tie the load and hatch down.
As far as your "load extender" is concerned, if you feel it will help, build it. Post it up. Let us know YOUR experience when doing so.
Also, the whole exhaust fumes thing is no joke. I know a couple of people who have had carbon monoxide poisoning...the risk here is minimal, but there is a risk. Just be aware.
I agree, and was going to stay out of it until this:
Since you have no internet skin, I will add MY real world experience. I, too, have 2 home improvement centers nearby. I have put stuff on the roof, and in back. Depends on what I need to carry. When putting stuff in the back, I fold the rear seats down, put the load as far forward as possible, and then (GASP!) tie the load and hatch down.
As far as your "load extender" is concerned, if you feel it will help, build it. Post it up. Let us know YOUR experience when doing so.
Also, the whole exhaust fumes thing is no joke. I know a couple of people who have had carbon monoxide poisoning...the risk here is minimal, but there is a risk. Just be aware.
07-13-2016, 10:33 AM
#39
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
I didn't make it five miles before I started feeling sick and lightheaded. Closed the window, and it went away.
Be careful with that
07-13-2016, 12:27 PM
#41
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
In my 1999's manuel it is written that if driving with the rear hatch being open is required, all windows should be down and the vent should be on, so that air is being pushed out the back instead of getting sucked in.
07-13-2016, 06:15 PM
#42
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Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
Jumping in late here and only read the last page. The Wrangler I just bought (yeah, I know) has a hardtop. I don't like it cause it feels enclosed, so I took off the doors and propped the rear window open. I didn't make it five miles before I started feeling sick and lightheaded. Closed the window, and it went away. Be careful with that
07-13-2016, 06:51 PM
#44
Senior Member
on my 92 stock roof rack
16' 8x8 on the roof....lil heavy
on my 98...too heavy to lift
got ARB rack now
lumber yard is 30 miles away, no biggie...one stop sign the rest country roads
16' 8x8 on the roof....lil heavy
on my 98...too heavy to lift
got ARB rack now
lumber yard is 30 miles away, no biggie...one stop sign the rest country roads
07-14-2016, 04:03 AM
#45
No, I don't lick fish.
I have, and still do, throw a ton of crap on the roof of my XJ... back when I had the factory rails and even more so now that I have the Yakima cross bars. There's several reasons to do this over hauling them in the back of the Jeep. The main one is weight distribution. I've hauled enough lumber spread out evenly over the roof to make the whole thing squat. If I had threw it in the back and let it hang out, the suspension would have bottomed out. Not to mention, if you haul lumber in the back of your Jeep, and you get rearended, where do you think the lumber is going to go? Yup.... right into your back.
You can do what you want man, but my advice is to just try the roof rack or get a small trailer. Oh... I also have an old Harbor Freight 4x8 trailer too... it's probably about 30 years old and I got it for free... but it does great at hauling heavy stuff.
You can do what you want man, but my advice is to just try the roof rack or get a small trailer. Oh... I also have an old Harbor Freight 4x8 trailer too... it's probably about 30 years old and I got it for free... but it does great at hauling heavy stuff.