RocketMouse

99 XJ, 4.0L, auto

Today backed out of the garage. Realised I didn't shut the driver's door all the way.
Opened and closed it as normal...then the window started opening on its own. Didn't think anything of it as I thought I accidentally hit the switch. Well I go to close the window and nothing.....
All the other windows operate normally from the driver's control switch so don't think the board is bad. I think....
Didn't make any weird noises or anything when going down.
Any thoughts? Motor or switch to look at replacing first?
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agreen

The most common issues with the 97+ XJ windows is the window switch (bad solder joints) and the wiring in the door jamb. Either way, you'll have to pull the door panel off, so check them both.

RocketMouse

I figured as much. I've had the door panel off before. It's not rocket science...just have to be patient to not break the plastic clips.
Either way...I'm not pissed...it lasted 23 years.
It's just inconvenient right now. But Praise God I have a garage to keep her in now 🙏
So that's a blessing while I get to the root cause.

country2

If your luck is like mine regardless how careful you are you will break 1/3 of the clips! I keep a bag of spare ones now. Good luck and don't forget to check the passenger side also as seems like I recall that's also in the circuit for drivers side.

RocketMouse

All the other windows work as they should. The front passenger side has always worked a little slow going up and down. But that's not a change, been that way since I bought it 4+ years ago.
I just attributed the other 3 windows really not being used much as my XJ was a low mileage service vehicle for the first 17ish years of it's life and the driver's window was the only one that really saw regular use.

RocketMouse

I just thought it strange how it failed... and thought maybe that might shed light on the actual cause of the failure.
It didn't give any sign of failing prior....and when it went, it just rolled down on its own at a normal speed...and then that was all she wrote.

RocketMouse

Finally got time to look at the issue.
have the door panel off. And just have the switch assembly connectEd so I could test. Diver's side I can hear what sounds like a solenoid click when pressing the up direction. But then no action.
when I reached inside to feel the motor it was really hot to the touch.and noticed the wires to the connector that controls the windows were getting pretty warm too.
Thoughts?

RocketMouse

I'm in the middle of moving into my new house and a lot of my tools are not avail. atm. So I don't have my multi-meter handy to test current/voltage.
So I'm wondering if just replacing the problem child components would just be good measure for down the road. I mean those electrical parts have seen 23 years of constant service.

If I do that... any suggestions for replacement brands? Doesn't have to be top shelf...but want decent quality so I don't have to revisit this issue again

djgrayxj

Note from DJ

This information may help your solve your mystery on your driver’s window problem.

What I would like you to try when you have time is walk out to your Jeep and open the driver’s door and see if the window motor is hot or not.

If the Jeep has been sitting for a while the motor should be cool. If the window motor is cool; with the ignition switch in the off position repeat your previse test by hitting the up position on the window switch let’s see if the motor starts heating up. Yes I understand you would normally need the ignition switch in the Run or Accessory position for the windows to operate; but I believe you have wiring that is shorted.

But the power door lock system is powered at all times; whereas the window system is only hot in the Accessor Run position.

Report back what the result of this test brings.

RocketMouse

That's a simple test that won't hurt to try. Right now I have the motor unplugged just in case. But will plug it back in and let it sit for a bit.
and give that a shot. If I have to fish for wiring issue in the door...that's gonna be a bit of a pain....but got to get to the root cause.

RocketMouse

Ok...did the test verbatim....no dice initially.
then when I put it in accessory position...I think because the motor and wiring was cooled off...it actually worked.
Then not too long and things started warming up.
So left it in the up position and disconnected the plug to the motor.
So it's got to be wiring..but where I don't know yet. What I could see of the looms all looked in very good nic with no obvious damage.
Will check them but wonder if the control switch to the windows/mirrors could be going ***** up on me.
Thanks for the tip... At least I know the motor isn't completely dead

RocketMouse

I wonder if there's something internal to the switch that is causing too much resistance..... I drove the Jeep this morning to work. (I haven't put the door panel/card back on yet)... and when I went to make sure the other windows were up when getting out after driving maybe 20ish minutes (now that I've got the window in the "up" position)... the window/mirror combo switch was a little warm on the back side. I hadn't been using it....so wondering if that piece is the culprit.
The motor would still be cool because I haven't plugged it back in. Don't want to give it any source of juice that could bring it back down on it's own again until I figure this issue out.

djgrayxj

Note from DJ

I’m about out of things that you can try. The odds are very high that you have broken wires or cracked insulation on wires inside that according rubber boot between the door and door post. Many other have had this problem in the doors and the rear hatch wiring. Chrysler choices of wire were terrible where it was expected to flex day in and day out!

You will not know for sure until you bite the bullet and remove the kick panel and work the rubber boot from the door post and push it towards the door.

If your Jeep is a daily driver it really compounds the problem as to when you begin the repair. If you want me or others to offer more advice keep us posted.

I’m looking into a relative simple way that might help splicing replacing wiring; but I haven’t seen the product in person. I only discovered it this morning while searching on my computer.

RocketMouse

I'm still going to go through the wiring soon as I can. At least this is helping me pinpoint the issue. I know the components still function. (ie. I dont have a dead window motor...etc)....
I've disconnected the connector to the motor to keep any more current going to it to keep it safe. Knowing it's most likely a wiring issue, I'll start on that next.
And yes... it is a DD for the most part... so being able to keep the windows up if I need to go somewhere is good for security. Especially in this enormous town.

RocketMouse

So.... I'm going to be checking my wiring this weekend.....and was curious for all those that have had to pull back the rubber boot that protects the wiring loom that goes into the doors... is there any trick to getting it out and exposing the loom without damaging the boot itself?