firehawk618

It's kind of hard to judge from pictures but the shoes do appear to be too big vs the backing plate.

firehawk618

Oh yeah I just replaced my rear brakes. Everything new. When I put mine all together I had to turn the adjuster several turns out to get things adjusted properly. Definitely NOT all the way in.

Rogue4x4

Not what I was taught. Always do a scratch test on the lathe first. This will tell you if you have a true surface. Drums and rotors. If not, turn them, usually only takes a few mils to get it right. The way it was explained to me is after production they stack all these parts, and some can warp slightly, due to residual heat, and the weight of parts being stacked by the hundreds on top of each other. It is rare that you should have to cut them, but it should always be checked. Most parts stores will do it for you when you buy them, at least in my experience they have. Besides, wouldn't you feel better KNOWING that your surfaces were true? I do...it isn't a big deal to do it, and you know it's right when you put it on...

firehawk618

Personally I have replaced hundreds of disc brake rotors and lots of drums and have not once had a detectable failure out of the box once installed on the vehicle.

I mean really, yes there's a minor chance the items aren't perfectly true out of the box but that can be said for new pads, shoes, cylinders, calipers etc etc.

I doubt anyone pressure checks their calipers / wheel cylinders or measures their pads / shoes to make sure they're perfect.

It's so easy to just pull off a drum / rotor if it does happen to be out of round and resurface / replace.

IMO not worth the effort / time to check new off the shelf parts plus I don't know about you, but our local parts stores don't have anything to resurface with anyways.

Rogue4x4

I have personally had several out-of-the-box parts be out of spec. Which is why I have them do it. Almost every parts store here does rotor/drum resurfacing on-site. Do it when you buy it, you don't have to pull it off again.
Pressure checking? I wouldn't go that far...LOL...besides, not many people have that tool...as far as the effort going into checking new parts, only discs and drums. Like I said, it's easy to do here, so I do it. Completely necessary? Nah. But easy enough for me to do, so I do it. Prevents warped rotors and such by making sure they're true to begin with. Just my opinion...

djgrayxj

Note from DJ
10 inch inside diameter brake drums are fined on the outside and take 10”X 1.75” wide shews.
9 inch inside diameter brake drums are not fined on the outside and take 9”X 2.5” wide shews.
What drums did you originally have and what drums and shoes were you given?
Check both sides.

XJPat

They look too big to me as well, not saying they are 10" xj shoes, just 10" shoes of some sort. If you have the old shoes I would put them next to the new ones for a side by side comparison.

DFlintstone

10" has a pin for the lever pivot, 9" has a slot it fit's/locks into. Also he can put the drum on. As far as turning new stuff, go ahead, I'll pass myself! (and the drum from the other side doesn't fit there ether) Me thinks if the the shoes are "home" on the stops, and not caught on a gruve on the plate, there is some flaw with the shoe(s).

freegdr

Did we match up parts when purchased ?

freegdr

Points of interest. I also see this different curves .....

dstrainer

Adjuster screw is all the way in.

Yes, I double checked parts are correct...well according to Advanced Auto's site part number

I'm not sure the if drums that were removed are OEM. But the new parts are Advance Auto parts and the drums that were removed do not fit either.

I will double check this but I compared them when I removed them from the packaging

I believe that is the backing plate. I think its just the angle of the picture.

firehawk618

dstrainer, you missed my point in the quote above.

What I was trying to tell you is that the adjuster DEFINITELY should NOT be all the way in even with new shoes.

I had to turn mine out several revolutions to get things adjusted properly with my all new brake setup.

DFlintstone

An interesting point tireguy has there. Can you see that the tops of the shoes are firmly right on the pin? I seized cable might just hold it out a hair.

Also with the drum off, you should be able to move the whole 'shoe assembly" left and right a little bit. If you can't shoes might be catching on grooves worn into the backing plate.

firehawk618

That is another good point about the backing plates.

With the shoes off you should see the little flat pads that the shoes rest on. They should be smooth.

dstrainer

Sorry I definitely misread it.

Yes the pads are firmly tight on the pin. The assembly can move from left to right from the bottom of the shoe assembly.


I believe I have fixed the issue. I'm not sure how but the brake wheel cylinders was not pushed in enough keeping the shoes pressed out. The drum still is somewhat tight but I am able to mount in without a bfh. I can hear a little drag but the wheel is able to move.