CCKen

If you are nervous about the temp the fan comes on at idle you may want to replace your fan clutch.


NAPA has there's on sale. Made in the USA. I just bought one and installed on my '99.


As far as the fan not coming on when using AC, the system pressure may be too low. Have it checked.

Klutch

^^ Good info. Thanks. As I recall, it's nearly impossible to tell for certain if a fan clutch is working properly; best to just replace it.

The electric fan eventually comes on when I run the A/C: just not until the temp goes over 120.

CCKen

Get a Standard clutch, not a heavy duty clutch.


The NAPA clutch part number is 272318, $35.10, normally $68.88.


DO NOT use a Hayden clutch. Hayden clutches from O'reilly Auto Parts are currently repackaged under the name Murray.

TankMorph

Thanks for the tip. I'll be picking up my replacement fan clutch this morning. It's already pretty hot here in FL, so my electric fan has been cycling quite a bit while sitting in traffic.

Like everyone has already stated, there's no really reliable way to test the fan clutch other than replacing it and looking for an improvement. My current one is definitely OEM, so being 15+ years old, I'm sure it's shot.

CCKen

[QUOTE=TankMorph;3056853]Thanks for the tip. I'll be picking up my replacement fan clutch this morning. It's already pretty hot here in FL, so my electric fan has been cycling quite a bit while sitting in traffic.

Like everyone has already stated, there's no really reliable way to test the fan clutch other than replacing it and looking for an improvement. My current one is definitely OEM, so being 15+ years old, I'm sure it's shot.[/QUOTE]


^ No doubt.


Make sure that when you start the engine after replacing the clutch that you take it to about 2,000 RPM and hold it there for approximately two minutes to ensure the proper fluid distribution within the clutch drive.

extrashaky

Well, actually there is, but it's usually not worth doing. Many fan clutches have two little tabs for the spring set 180° apart. If you take the end of the spring and move it 180° to the other tab, you essentially lock the clutch so that the fan is always turning. If that fixes your overheating issue, you know the clutch itself is bad.

But by the time you do that, you might as well have just replaced the stupid thing. And sometimes they come with glue all over the spring tab so you can't move it without getting the glue off. The only reason to do that is if you're living hand to mouth and need to be absolutely sure it's shot before you throw money at it.

On the other hand, this is good information to know in case you ever get stranded in stop and go traffic with a bad fan clutch and no replacement, since you can lock the clutch to get you home.

TankMorph

Changed out the fan clutch yesterday morning. (The $35 Napa part suggested previously). I drove all day (some highway, some stop and go traffic), and I absolutely could tell the difference. The ECT never got above 220. The outside temp was about 85, so not super hot, but still quite warm. The electric fan did cycle on a few times, presumably with the refrigerant high pressure switch. I checked the old and new fan clutches by hand with the engine warmed up. The new one definitely seems "tighter". The part I replaced was stamped Delco and had some part numbers that were mostly worn off. I'm not sure if it was OEM or not. It was obviously on there for a long time, though.

By the way, I chose to cut out the section of fan shroud between the tabs on the lower part. Made the R&R super easy. I doubt that little extra bit of plastic made too much of a difference anyway.

Just wanted to mention I have an Ultragauge hooked up to my OBDII port, so I can monitor the ECT digitally. Kind of a cool gadget (I'm just a consumer of it, no relation to the company or anything), worth the money IMHO.

Due to my extreme boredom, I'll be replacing my electric fan today. It is wobbly and noisy. Looks extremely straight forward.

CCKen

Good work.


You should be able to see ECT and IAT on your device. Compare the two periodically after the engine has cooled down overnight. They should be within 6*F of each other.


I had a wide split once so I removed the radiator cap and checked the coolant temp with a digital thermometer and found that the coolant temp was around OAT, so I replaced the IAT sensor. Rechecked on my scanner and the ECT/IAT readout matched pretty good then. Defective IAT sensor.


Handy device.

TankMorph

Wow! Great advice. I'll definitely do that. I'm always torn on what to display on the Ultragauge anyway. Currently just showing Avg MPG, Instant MPG, ECT, and "miles to empty".

I replaced the electric fan this morning. WHAT A DIFFERENCE! I can barely even hear it come on now. It wasn't an OEM fan to being with. It was a TYC 620560. I just put a "cheap" Dorman 620-001 I picked up at my local Advance. Only about $35 with my discount, so I'm happy. It has a pigtail adapter to plug into the factory harness that I'm not a big fan of, but I used some dielectric grease and tie straps to secure it properly. We'll see how long it lasts...eventually...for now I'm happy!

I've been a mechanic for years, but not much experience on Jeeps. It's nice to get some wisdom from you folks...

I'll start a thread one of these days with what I've done so far to the XJ.

centuryhouse

My 2000 XJ doesn't have any kind of shroud - do they all? If so, is a shroud needed?

CCKen

The only thing I can see that may be a problem and that's the use of Dielectric grease in pin connector. Dielectric grease is an insulator and may only serve to aggravate marginal connection between the pins and their pin cavities in the connector. It's extra work, but I recommend removing that grease using CRC QD Electronic Cleaner and reassembly dry. Use of the grease on the weather seal on the connector is okay.


Dielectric grease should only be used on the external lamps bulbs connectors and on the inside of spark plug wire boots.

CCKen

It needs a shroud. All XJ's will have them. Check the junkyards for a shroud in a '97-'01 XJ. If none available, check the internet.


Rockauto has them. If you do a part number search you can find it. Your shroud part number is 52027501AB.

TankMorph

Thanks for the input, but I've been using dielectric grease in this type of application for years with no issue. It's a relatively high amperage connection, so I feel better using it. I'm very minimal with the application, so it's not a problem now, and I doubt it will be an issue going forward. To be specific, I used Super Lube brand dielectric grease. It's truly an insulator, yes, but it seals contaminants, moisture and air out of the connection when used appropriately. The dielectric grease will be completely displaced from between the conducting surfaces in this case. They are basically crimp/compression type connections. Of course, YMMV

Please, everyone listen to CCKen. I concur that he has way more knowledge to me in perhaps every case. I'm not even being sarcastic. I've read MANY of his posts. I'm just throwing in my 2 cents.

Again, thanks for all the input!

extrashaky

If I remember correctly, 5-90 uses Ox-Gard on his connectors. It protects against corrosion, but unlike dielectric grease, it's conductive. You can get it at Home Depot.

TankMorph

That's probably a great choice. I've just never used that stuff. Going forward, I'll give it a shot! Thanks a bunch!

Of course, the thing to keep in mind is MY XJ will never be off-road or get any wetter than your typical Camry or similar vehicle. For those of you into 4x4'ing I'm sure your needs are WAY more specific. I do love driving my Jeep, though. Just waiting for my left knee to heal up more so I can get back into my stick-shift Foxbody...lol