Electric Fan on 2000 Cherokee
#31
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have a bone stock, non-modified 2000 Cherokee and have confirmed the electric fan does NOT come on until the temp gets over 220. I turned on the A/C and let it idle in the driveway for a long time. No electric fan, no electric fan, no electric fan, temp goes over 220, BAM!, electric fan comes on.
I don't like sitting at a stop light and watching the temp gauge climb to to over 220 before the fan comes on, but apparently it's not a problem if the computer was programmed this way. I'm not wanting to mess with the electrical system to change it.
I don't like sitting at a stop light and watching the temp gauge climb to to over 220 before the fan comes on, but apparently it's not a problem if the computer was programmed this way. I'm not wanting to mess with the electrical system to change it.
If you are nervous about the temp the fan comes on at idle you may want to replace your fan clutch.
NAPA has there's on sale. Made in the USA. I just bought one and installed on my '99.
As far as the fan not coming on when using AC, the system pressure may be too low. Have it checked.
#32
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Year: 2000
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^^ Good info. Thanks. As I recall, it's nearly impossible to tell for certain if a fan clutch is working properly; best to just replace it.
The electric fan eventually comes on when I run the A/C: just not until the temp goes over 120.
The electric fan eventually comes on when I run the A/C: just not until the temp goes over 120.
#33
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Year: 1999
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Get a Standard clutch, not a heavy duty clutch.
The NAPA clutch part number is 272318, $35.10, normally $68.88.
DO NOT use a Hayden clutch. Hayden clutches from O'reilly Auto Parts are currently repackaged under the name Murray.
The NAPA clutch part number is 272318, $35.10, normally $68.88.
DO NOT use a Hayden clutch. Hayden clutches from O'reilly Auto Parts are currently repackaged under the name Murray.
#34
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
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Like everyone has already stated, there's no really reliable way to test the fan clutch other than replacing it and looking for an improvement. My current one is definitely OEM, so being 15+ years old, I'm sure it's shot.
#35
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
[QUOTE=TankMorph;3056853]Thanks for the tip. I'll be picking up my replacement fan clutch this morning. It's already pretty hot here in FL, so my electric fan has been cycling quite a bit while sitting in traffic.
Like everyone has already stated, there's no really reliable way to test the fan clutch other than replacing it and looking for an improvement. My current one is definitely OEM, so being 15+ years old, I'm sure it's shot.[/QUOTE]
^ No doubt.
Make sure that when you start the engine after replacing the clutch that you take it to about 2,000 RPM and hold it there for approximately two minutes to ensure the proper fluid distribution within the clutch drive.
Like everyone has already stated, there's no really reliable way to test the fan clutch other than replacing it and looking for an improvement. My current one is definitely OEM, so being 15+ years old, I'm sure it's shot.[/QUOTE]
^ No doubt.
Make sure that when you start the engine after replacing the clutch that you take it to about 2,000 RPM and hold it there for approximately two minutes to ensure the proper fluid distribution within the clutch drive.
#36
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: Golen 4.6L
But by the time you do that, you might as well have just replaced the stupid thing. And sometimes they come with glue all over the spring tab so you can't move it without getting the glue off. The only reason to do that is if you're living hand to mouth and need to be absolutely sure it's shot before you throw money at it.
On the other hand, this is good information to know in case you ever get stranded in stop and go traffic with a bad fan clutch and no replacement, since you can lock the clutch to get you home.
#37
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Year: 2000
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Changed out the fan clutch yesterday morning. (The $35 Napa part suggested previously). I drove all day (some highway, some stop and go traffic), and I absolutely could tell the difference. The ECT never got above 220. The outside temp was about 85, so not super hot, but still quite warm. The electric fan did cycle on a few times, presumably with the refrigerant high pressure switch. I checked the old and new fan clutches by hand with the engine warmed up. The new one definitely seems "tighter". The part I replaced was stamped Delco and had some part numbers that were mostly worn off. I'm not sure if it was OEM or not. It was obviously on there for a long time, though.
By the way, I chose to cut out the section of fan shroud between the tabs on the lower part. Made the R&R super easy. I doubt that little extra bit of plastic made too much of a difference anyway.
Just wanted to mention I have an Ultragauge hooked up to my OBDII port, so I can monitor the ECT digitally. Kind of a cool gadget (I'm just a consumer of it, no relation to the company or anything), worth the money IMHO.
Due to my extreme boredom, I'll be replacing my electric fan today. It is wobbly and noisy. Looks extremely straight forward.
By the way, I chose to cut out the section of fan shroud between the tabs on the lower part. Made the R&R super easy. I doubt that little extra bit of plastic made too much of a difference anyway.
Just wanted to mention I have an Ultragauge hooked up to my OBDII port, so I can monitor the ECT digitally. Kind of a cool gadget (I'm just a consumer of it, no relation to the company or anything), worth the money IMHO.
Due to my extreme boredom, I'll be replacing my electric fan today. It is wobbly and noisy. Looks extremely straight forward.
Last edited by TankMorph; 03-20-2015 at 08:10 AM.
#38
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Year: 1999
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Changed out the fan clutch yesterday morning. (The $35 Napa part suggested previously). I drove all day (some highway, some stop and go traffic), and I absolutely could tell the difference. The ECT never got above 220. The outside temp was about 85, so not super hot, but still quite warm. The electric fan did cycle on a few times, presumably with the refrigerant high pressure switch. I checked the old and new fan clutches by hand with the engine warmed up. The new one definitely seems "tighter". The part I replaced was stamped Delco and had some part numbers that were mostly worn off. I'm not sure if it was OEM or not. It was obviously on there for a long time, though.
By the way, I chose to cut out the section of fan shroud between the tabs on the lower part. Made the R&R super easy. I doubt that little extra bit of plastic made too much of a difference anyway.
Just wanted to mention I have an Ultragauge hooked up to my OBDII port, so I can monitor the ECT digitally. Kind of a cool gadget (I'm just a consumer of it, no relation to the company or anything), worth the money IMHO.
Due to my extreme boredom, I'll be replacing my electric fan today. It is wobbly and noisy. Looks extremely straight forward.
By the way, I chose to cut out the section of fan shroud between the tabs on the lower part. Made the R&R super easy. I doubt that little extra bit of plastic made too much of a difference anyway.
Just wanted to mention I have an Ultragauge hooked up to my OBDII port, so I can monitor the ECT digitally. Kind of a cool gadget (I'm just a consumer of it, no relation to the company or anything), worth the money IMHO.
Due to my extreme boredom, I'll be replacing my electric fan today. It is wobbly and noisy. Looks extremely straight forward.
Good work.
You should be able to see ECT and IAT on your device. Compare the two periodically after the engine has cooled down overnight. They should be within 6*F of each other.
I had a wide split once so I removed the radiator cap and checked the coolant temp with a digital thermometer and found that the coolant temp was around OAT, so I replaced the IAT sensor. Rechecked on my scanner and the ECT/IAT readout matched pretty good then. Defective IAT sensor.
Handy device.
#39
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Good work.
You should be able to see ECT and IAT on your device. Compare the two periodically after the engine has cooled down overnight. They should be within 6*F of each other.
I had a wide split once so I removed the radiator cap and checked the coolant temp with a digital thermometer and found that the coolant temp was around OAT, so I replaced the IAT sensor. Rechecked on my scanner and the ECT/IAT readout matched pretty good then. Defective IAT sensor.
Handy device.
You should be able to see ECT and IAT on your device. Compare the two periodically after the engine has cooled down overnight. They should be within 6*F of each other.
I had a wide split once so I removed the radiator cap and checked the coolant temp with a digital thermometer and found that the coolant temp was around OAT, so I replaced the IAT sensor. Rechecked on my scanner and the ECT/IAT readout matched pretty good then. Defective IAT sensor.
Handy device.
I replaced the electric fan this morning. WHAT A DIFFERENCE! I can barely even hear it come on now. It wasn't an OEM fan to being with. It was a TYC 620560. I just put a "cheap" Dorman 620-001 I picked up at my local Advance. Only about $35 with my discount, so I'm happy. It has a pigtail adapter to plug into the factory harness that I'm not a big fan of, but I used some dielectric grease and tie straps to secure it properly. We'll see how long it lasts...eventually...for now I'm happy!
I've been a mechanic for years, but not much experience on Jeeps. It's nice to get some wisdom from you folks...
I'll start a thread one of these days with what I've done so far to the XJ.
#40
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Year: 2000, 1994
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My 2000 XJ doesn't have any kind of shroud - do they all? If so, is a shroud needed?
#41
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Wow! Great advice. I'll definitely do that. I'm always torn on what to display on the Ultragauge anyway. Currently just showing Avg MPG, Instant MPG, ECT, and "miles to empty".
I replaced the electric fan this morning. WHAT A DIFFERENCE! I can barely even hear it come on now. It wasn't an OEM fan to being with. It was a TYC 620560. I just put a "cheap" Dorman 620-001 I picked up at my local Advance. Only about $35 with my discount, so I'm happy. It has a pigtail adapter to plug into the factory harness that I'm not a big fan of, but I used some dielectric grease and tie straps to secure it properly. We'll see how long it lasts...eventually...for now I'm happy!
I've been a mechanic for years, but not much experience on Jeeps. It's nice to get some wisdom from you folks...
I'll start a thread one of these days with what I've done so far to the XJ.
I replaced the electric fan this morning. WHAT A DIFFERENCE! I can barely even hear it come on now. It wasn't an OEM fan to being with. It was a TYC 620560. I just put a "cheap" Dorman 620-001 I picked up at my local Advance. Only about $35 with my discount, so I'm happy. It has a pigtail adapter to plug into the factory harness that I'm not a big fan of, but I used some dielectric grease and tie straps to secure it properly. We'll see how long it lasts...eventually...for now I'm happy!
I've been a mechanic for years, but not much experience on Jeeps. It's nice to get some wisdom from you folks...
I'll start a thread one of these days with what I've done so far to the XJ.
The only thing I can see that may be a problem and that's the use of Dielectric grease in pin connector. Dielectric grease is an insulator and may only serve to aggravate marginal connection between the pins and their pin cavities in the connector. It's extra work, but I recommend removing that grease using CRC QD Electronic Cleaner and reassembly dry. Use of the grease on the weather seal on the connector is okay.
Dielectric grease should only be used on the external lamps bulbs connectors and on the inside of spark plug wire boots.
#42
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It needs a shroud. All XJ's will have them. Check the junkyards for a shroud in a '97-'01 XJ. If none available, check the internet.
Rockauto has them. If you do a part number search you can find it. Your shroud part number is 52027501AB.
Last edited by CCKen; 03-20-2015 at 11:43 AM.
#43
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The only thing I can see that may be a problem and that's the use of Dielectric grease in pin connector. Dielectric grease is an insulator and may only serve to aggravate marginal connection between the pins and their pin cavities in the connector. It's extra work, but I recommend removing that grease using CRC QD Electronic Cleaner and reassembly dry. Use of the grease on the weather seal on the connector is okay.
Dielectric grease should only be used on the external lamps bulbs connectors and on the inside of spark plug wire boots.
Dielectric grease should only be used on the external lamps bulbs connectors and on the inside of spark plug wire boots.
Please, everyone listen to CCKen. I concur that he has way more knowledge to me in perhaps every case. I'm not even being sarcastic. I've read MANY of his posts. I'm just throwing in my 2 cents.
Again, thanks for all the input!
Last edited by TankMorph; 03-20-2015 at 01:37 PM.
#44
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The only thing I can see that may be a problem and that's the use of Dielectric grease in pin connector. Dielectric grease is an insulator and may only serve to aggravate marginal connection between the pins and their pin cavities in the connector. It's extra work, but I recommend removing that grease using CRC QD Electronic Cleaner and reassembly dry.
#45
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Of course, the thing to keep in mind is MY XJ will never be off-road or get any wetter than your typical Camry or similar vehicle. For those of you into 4x4'ing I'm sure your needs are WAY more specific. I do love driving my Jeep, though. Just waiting for my left knee to heal up more so I can get back into my stick-shift Foxbody...lol
Last edited by TankMorph; 03-20-2015 at 01:46 PM.