playbass

The electric locks on my 98 have started to only half work. Clicking 'unlock' works but clicking 'lock' only works about 5% of the time. All the window switches work. This recently started in the past month. I don't believe it is the switches themselves as they are brand new Standard switches in both the driver and passenger side, and this happened some with the old switches too. Manually locking the doors or with the key works fine.

I'm going to peel the boot back in the driver side door jamb to see if any wires are broken or exposed. Anything else I should look for?

BlueRidgeMark

This is often due to the lock mechanism getting gunked up. The resistance becomes too much for the electric actuator to overcome.

Before spending any money on parts, try a good cleaning. A decent penetrating oil works well for this. PB Blaster or the like. (NOT WD-40!) Pull the door panel off and get it from both sides. Spray liberally, while working the mechanism repeatedly. The idea is to dissolve the crud and flush it out. Take appropriate precautions for the dripping oil. Go crazy with it. Then follow up with a good lubricant. Again, spray liberally and work the mechanism.

It can't hurt, and it might solve the problem. While you are in there, lube the window mechanism.

I'm heading your way in a couple of weeks. I'll stop by and inspect your work. White glove, so you'd better do it right.

playbass

Well I opened the wiring harness in between the drivers side door and all the wires look great. I don't believe the problem is in the actuator, it unlocks fine but doesn't even attempt to lock (I can't hear anything attempting to lock in any of the 4 doors).

Not sure where to look next? Grounding issue?

playbass

Grounds are good. Looked in the FSM, looks like it could be an issue with the Door Jamb Switch or the Ignition switch. Basically it’s acting like I’m trying to lock the door with the key in the ignition and is blocking the lock signal. Digging deeper...

playbass

It was not the ignition switch unfortunately. I replaced the old one with a new Mopar one and still no automatic locking when pressing the switch. Unlock still works and all the windows work fine from either the driver or passenger switch.

To recap:
* I've replaced the driver side lock actuator and cleaned the passenger side
* I've replaced the driver and passenger lock switches
* I've checked the wiring in the door jamb and no wires were broken or frayed
* I've replaced the door jamb switch
* I've replaced the ignition switch

Does the dome light / keyless entry circuit board control the locking signal in any way? I suppose the next step is to really dig into the electronics and see where the lock signal is failing

playbass

I got 2 OEM fobs programmed to my RKE board and now my doors will unlock and lock with the key fobs but still won't from the door switches. I'm going to install some heated mirrors next and during that process deeply inspect the wiring harnesses. Initial inspection didn't come up with any obvious breaks but something must be up with the door wiring for my locks. I've replaced everything else lol.

playbass

Lol, finally figured out the issue. C1 Pin 3 was loose in the passenger connector. Fixed that and now the locks work great.

Did I throw some parts at it. Yes. Did I learn some things. Yes. Will I look at the connector first next time. Yes.

Roler

Thanks for coming back though!
Its good to hear the end/solution, too many threads end up dying in the middle of nowhere..
Closure is good, no matter when.

Sig220

Where is this connector you post about....in the passenger kick panel? Good Job, btw!

playbass

These are the connectors to the door lock switch inside the passenger door trim panel on 97-01s. You take off the door trim panel and boom these two connectors are right there connected to the switch. In my case C1 PIN 3 was loose causing only the 'lock' action to fail. Unlock would work fine.

Sig220

Got it and appreciate it!

When my other projects slow down, I can open this one up!