Electrical gremlin, oh boy...
#16
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Sonoma, CA
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Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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That could be it! Mine was attached on the other side under the seat, but if there is another broken end under the seat you may be getting somewhere. I think the wire harness runs under the kick plate under the door and by the pillar. This is where the ground came out in my jeep but it sounds like every Cherokee is a bit different...
#17
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I hear myself in the threads. Have a 2001 Cherokee Sport bought used this year. Gremlins came with Jeep. Found several blown fuses, bad bulbs, bad rear defroster switch and defroster solder connection on window, door windows only open/close from driver switch and door. Then the Gremlins attacked! Check gage light can on and volt gage pinned at 19V. Latest sometimes turn key to start car and nothing!
1. replaced blown fuses, bad bulbs, replaced defroster switch, soldered rear window defroster connection. All has been fine for 10 months now.
2. Door window switch- have not done anything yet, but when I use door lock/unlock or press door lock override button lights in window remote remote either go off or flicker. WONDER IF THIS CONNECTED TO GAGE LIGHT AND VOLT GAGE ISSUE.
1. replaced blown fuses, bad bulbs, replaced defroster switch, soldered rear window defroster connection. All has been fine for 10 months now.
2. Door window switch- have not done anything yet, but when I use door lock/unlock or press door lock override button lights in window remote remote either go off or flicker. WONDER IF THIS CONNECTED TO GAGE LIGHT AND VOLT GAGE ISSUE.
#18
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Lehigh Valley PA
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 renix
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Just throwing out a possibility - cruiser has a tip for running a secondary ground strap on the grounding point underneath the driver's side up above the hood release - not sure if this is the same for newer 4.0's, but it's a thought - it's the ground for QUITE a lot. Also dipstick/engine block ground refreshing should go without saying, if it hasn't been done yet.
Also, as far as headlights - make sure to check the headlight harness connector in front of the air box, the thing always gets crazy corroded, also another of cruiser's tips - I would check it, spray it out with contact cleaner, and if it's bad enough - sand the pins down as best you can, otherwise you would have to re-pin it, or upgrade it (yet another of cruiser's tips/posts)
Also, as far as headlights - make sure to check the headlight harness connector in front of the air box, the thing always gets crazy corroded, also another of cruiser's tips - I would check it, spray it out with contact cleaner, and if it's bad enough - sand the pins down as best you can, otherwise you would have to re-pin it, or upgrade it (yet another of cruiser's tips/posts)
#19
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Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
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Yea, here's Cruisers thing below. It's for 87-90....may well be different there.
Fyi, I think the radio may have three wires that get power. One on the dash light circuit that dims with the dash lights, (not sure about that), one that is powered 24/7 for it's memory, and one that is powered off the ign, to run it.
Improving the Instrument Panel Ground
The ground point for the complete instrument cluster on your XJ or MJ is located up under the driver’s side dash. If you lay on your back and look up under there with a flashlight, without wearing a hat, you will see a black wire attached to a shiny piece of metal almost directly above the hood release ****. The screw will have either a ¼" or 5/16" head on it.
This ground point is responsible for handling the ground circuit for the following items: Dome lamps, Seatbelt and key warning, trans comfort switch, wiper switch, headlamp switch and delay module, fog lamp switch, cargo lamp switch, all instrument panel grounds and illumination, power windows and door locks, cruise control dump valve, and a few more things.
The problem is that where the ground point is located does not have a good contact with the chassis where the ground should be. The solution is simple.
Make up a jumper wire with #10 gauge wire about 10" long. On one end, crimp on a ¼" round wire terminal. On the other end, crimp on a 3/8" round wire terminal.
Remove the screw from the existing ground wire and attach the small terminal of your jumper so that the original wire and your new jumper share the same attaching point, one over the other.
Look above the driver’s side plastic kick panel just forward of the top of the hood release ****. You will see an 8mm stud there. Attach the large terminal end there with a washer and nut over it tightened securely.
**Special note for Comanche owners: Make your jumper wire 12" long and attach it on the driver’s side kick panel close to the fusebox on the 8mm stud.**
Fyi, I think the radio may have three wires that get power. One on the dash light circuit that dims with the dash lights, (not sure about that), one that is powered 24/7 for it's memory, and one that is powered off the ign, to run it.
Improving the Instrument Panel Ground
The ground point for the complete instrument cluster on your XJ or MJ is located up under the driver’s side dash. If you lay on your back and look up under there with a flashlight, without wearing a hat, you will see a black wire attached to a shiny piece of metal almost directly above the hood release ****. The screw will have either a ¼" or 5/16" head on it.
This ground point is responsible for handling the ground circuit for the following items: Dome lamps, Seatbelt and key warning, trans comfort switch, wiper switch, headlamp switch and delay module, fog lamp switch, cargo lamp switch, all instrument panel grounds and illumination, power windows and door locks, cruise control dump valve, and a few more things.
The problem is that where the ground point is located does not have a good contact with the chassis where the ground should be. The solution is simple.
Make up a jumper wire with #10 gauge wire about 10" long. On one end, crimp on a ¼" round wire terminal. On the other end, crimp on a 3/8" round wire terminal.
Remove the screw from the existing ground wire and attach the small terminal of your jumper so that the original wire and your new jumper share the same attaching point, one over the other.
Look above the driver’s side plastic kick panel just forward of the top of the hood release ****. You will see an 8mm stud there. Attach the large terminal end there with a washer and nut over it tightened securely.
**Special note for Comanche owners: Make your jumper wire 12" long and attach it on the driver’s side kick panel close to the fusebox on the 8mm stud.**
#20
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would help if you can identify if 2001 Cherokee Sport is wired same to add this jumper?
I'm hearing the crank position sensor could make voltage gage misbehave and also cause some of the starting gremlins. Anyone know of this?
I'm told crank position sensor should be change if vehicle getting up towards 160 to 180,000 miles. I'm at about 165,000. Jeep either starts like a good dream or wants to act nasty. Not do anything when key turned, grind starter gear, turn over and not start (which required holding gas petal to floor and then turn key to start).
I'm hearing the crank position sensor could make voltage gage misbehave and also cause some of the starting gremlins. Anyone know of this?
I'm told crank position sensor should be change if vehicle getting up towards 160 to 180,000 miles. I'm at about 165,000. Jeep either starts like a good dream or wants to act nasty. Not do anything when key turned, grind starter gear, turn over and not start (which required holding gas petal to floor and then turn key to start).
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