Yes. Exclusive and expensive. BUT IT WORKS!!!!!!

 

Has been proven to work too!

 

You oughta know. You did it. I've seen it do amazing things over the years at the dealership and on my own vehicles.

 

It's definitely worth the extra coin. One use and I'm a huge believer in it!

 

Well just imagine how you'd feel about it if you used it for over 20 years?

 

I'd imagine I'd be shoving it down everyones throats. I'm surprised I don't see you pushing it more often

 

Ah, everyone's stuck on Seafoam and cheap injector cleaners. Don't work well, but since they have no knowledge of the good stuff the pros use, they go for the ad campaign.

 

It's only $20 shipped on eBay.

 

Yep, and worth every penny. Mostly because it works and the others are the snake oil ad campaign over advertised pieces of crap.

 

I agree the other stuff on store shelves do not do much. So I don't use it. I've used Seafoam once about 8 years ago. Didn't see much difference. It may have but never used it again. I'm smog checking this morning. If I still have issues, I'll get a can of the stuff. And get a new header. Do the BG44K first then the header to pass.
Thanks.

 

I ran another pretest. It was worse with the new O2 sensor, NTK. There is a reset to the ECU. How do you do it? I read pull the ECU Fuse then turn on ignition. Leave it on for five minutes. Then replace the fuse and the check engine light should blink. Problem is that there is no cover on my inside fuse box so I do not know which fuse it is. I tried the remove the battery cable. I only left it off for about 20 mins to a 1/2 hour. Is that enough time? If someone can tell me which is the fuse, I'd appreciate it. I'm taking a picture of my fuse box and will post it with letters.

Here's the smog result. NOx went up. Nearly double. Suspect ECU needs some 'learning'.
I have not ruled out that the catalytic converter may not be 'great'. I did not buy at the dealer but at a Muffler shop I have had been getting good results. I will contact them tomorrow and discuss their warranty. They are a good group so I'll see what they have to say.

 

Here's the Fuse box I'm asking about. It is located under the Driver side to the left of the Steering Column. I labeled it. Which one goes to the Computer/ECU/PCM-whatever it is called.

 

Dummy me. Found the "relearn ' post at
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/i-w...relearn-41106/
Now there are two ways. I think I got it now.

==========================
Pulling the exhaust manifold today, get it welded up and go for smog tomorrow. Finally doing it.
Also, I find that the 1994 fuse box, driver side had no cover. I do not have a owners manual. Long gone from previous owners. Anyone have a diagram or that page of the manual that shows what each fuse goes to?

 

I pulled an exhaust manifold from the salvage yard today. Got lucky and found one in decent shape. Has a possible hairline crack so will get that welded. And reinforce the joints where it normally cracks on Jeeps. Its so much better than mine. And not $200 for a new one. I'll do a air pressure test on it before putting it in?
I was surprised how easy the bolts were to get off. Didn't seem to have a lot of torque on them. Is that normal? I expected to have to use a breaker bar to loosen it. But I guess just need to compress the gasket and not crank it down.
Hope that the exhaust leak is the NOx failure.
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Should I be looking at anything else? I am hoping it is the exhaust manifold. Only thing that can explain the sudden rise in the NOx is that maybe forced another leak in my manifold?

 

So after reviewing the msds for some popular fuel treatments(bg44k, Seafoam, Lucas injector cleaner etc, I have found they all have some similarities. Petroleum distillates, mineral spirites and naptha (all are distillates of perol) are common ingredients. So what are the proprietary ingredients that make the difference? Detergents perhaps? Ethyl? I will probably never get a clear answer, but am curious. I won't bother to contact the manufacturers for obvious reasons.