I've got a 1996 Jeep Cherokee Country, 4.0, Auto, bone stock. Was at the tail end of an hour long drive on the freeway last night, doing 75mph, and the engine just suddenly died. No clunk, bang, or other noise. Gauge cluster, radio, etc all stayed live. Steered her onto the shoulder, and arranged a tow.

Got her home, fuel pump was first guess - still priming just fine. Cranks over all day, just does not start. No obviously loose hose/wires/etc. Looked around a lot of no start threads, sounds like the CPS is a common culprit of this sort of thing, but when it fails it cuts off both spark and fuel - would the fuel pump still prime?

No CEL, but checked the codes this morning - six codes present: P0201 - P0206 A "Fuel Injector Circuit Open: Cylinder x" One for each cylinder. Checked my harnesses, all are good. Battery in multimeter just died so will be checking the injector connectors for proper operation when I get home tonight, just curious if anyone has any ideas? All the threads I could find for these codes were for either one, or a few, not all 6 injectors gone at once.

 

I would start by making sure that you have a strong blue spark and that you have the correct fuel pressure. Your year should have 39 or 49psi. I can't remember what year the pressure went from the 39 to 49. Check those and let us know what you find and we can go from there.

 

I had a similar issue with my 96. It only cut off once while driving, but regularly would not start, just crank over. Only way to start it was to floor the gas pedal, this stops all injectors to 'clear flood'.
My issue was with the connection on coolant temperature sender. The sender offers input to control injector pulse width. My CEL code was for the temp sender and for injectors/harness.

 

Okay, update for the last few days. Suspected PCM due to the injector codes. Checked the harness leading from injector to PCM - no issues to be seen.
Tested spark both from distributor to plugs, and from the coil to distributor with an inline tester and I got nothing on either wire.
Bought a reman PCM, tried it, crank no start.
Replaced the CPS last night, crank no start.
Picked up a fuel pressure tester and a noid light set for the injectors, will be running through those two tests tomorrow after work as well as changing the fuel filter, freshening up the ignition system (plugs, wires, cap, rotor), and will be checking out the pick up coil in the distributor while I'm there.
Any other ideas I'm missing? No clicking from the PDC. Fuel pump is still operating as normal.

 

Maybe ignition coil.. But I doubt it, sudden failure and all..

 

I intended to test the coil as well earlier today - but I literally can't find any instructions or anything for my type. The manual I have doesn't have instructions for it, and everything online just refers to the posts as primary, secondary, etc. I'm just not experienced enough with it to test it conclusively without pictures to be honest. I may just change it out to make sure, it's got 260,xxx KM on it, could use a new one.
And yea, there were no indications of anything going wrong, was running 100% perfectly and then suddenly nothing.

 

Got a lot done so far today.

Changed the fuel filter. It was extremely clogged. Still no start, unsurprising, but worth a shot.

Ran a fuel pressure test off of the schrader valve on the fuel rail. Took 4-5 key cycles (On-Off-etc) to get up to 49 PSI, but once it reached 49 it held it, didn't drop at all, or increase any if I continued cycling the key. Tried to start at 49 PSI, nothing.

Ran a Noid Light test on the injectors. As I suspected, no signal. Light does not even come on with just the key on.

Decided to change Plugs/Wires/Cap/Rotor since they were due anyway, while in the distributor, checked the camshaft position sensor (aka stator), could not get it up out of its place. I didn't think there was any fastener holding it down, and couldn't see anything, but I even tried gently prying it up with a small screwdriver and it started to come up but where the sync signal generator sits, it would NOT lift up to be removed. What's the testing process from the connector?

From there, I cleaned up where the ground strap mounts to the firewall from the back of the block. Was fairly dirty but not too bad. Nice and shiny now. The other end is completely covered in oil lol, but haven't gotten to it yet, raining on and off...

In other news, while I was changing the fuel filter I noticed that the wire harness for my rear oxygen sensor (downstream?) get caught in the output boot of the transfer case and has been shredded. Will be repairing it shortly of course, but I don't think this would have been causing a no start, right? Just really poor gas mileage... And if anyone is curious, I am back to using the old PCM, so I do not believe that is the issue. Tried a reman and nothin'.

 

Check the fuses. That shredded O2 wire may have shorted to ground and blew the fuse to the PCM.

 

Man, it really sounds like the Crank Sensor... but you replaced it, right?

 

Will give the fuses a once over in a moment.
Just verified continuity between the PCM and the injectors. Using the Hayne's manual wiring diagram, and one probe of the multimeter on the PCM side, and once probe on the injector connector side, all of the wires register resistance (except #3, I couldn't get the connector off...but if every other one is good, whatever) - which is what I need, right? I think I'm doing this correctly, I'm just not the greatest with electrical issues, hence the double checking with you all..

 

A 30A fuse was blown. D'oh. Plugged it in. Starts, sputters and dies. Repairing the Oxygen Sensor next.

 

Well, at least you got it to do something. It's a start.

 

Oxygen Sensor wiring is repaired.
Still crank no start. There is spark, I'm using a spark tester, and the light is showing up red, not sure if that's indicative of the spark color itself or just what color the lightbulb is.
Double checked firing order on the wires, all good. All fuses are good, smells like excess fuel after cranking so injectors are firing at least. Ugh.
So, getting spark, getting fuel, certainly getting air - just gotta put it all together.
Now, a concern I have is that when I was getting the cap and rotor, there were two different options, depending on the distributor serial number. I went with the one that was in stock and it visually matched the old cap, mounted fine, etc so I put it and the rotor on. Could that be my problem?

 

Got her running. Firing order in the Hayne's manual was incorrect. Shifted all the wires counter clockwise one - started right up.

 

glad you got it running again. Weird that the Haynes manual had it off by one.