Engine install questions
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Engine install questions
Hi all,
I have a few questions about how to go about re-installing my engine after a rebuild. It's a 2000 xj 4.0, so it has the cali emissions 2 cats right under the header. The trans is still in place. I didn't pull it, nor do I have the room in my garage to put the trans and engine back in in one piece.
Because of how toght the engine compartment is, I'd love to be able to put the intake and exhaust manifold on the engine while it's on the stand, before it goes in. But if I do that will I be able to reach the two trans bellhousing bolts that go in from the front? And will it make it harder to align the trans and engine?
Also, should I leave the motor mounts off so theres more wiggle room, then get the engine and trans aligned and bolted together and then put the motor mounts in? This will bey first engine intall. The job itself seems pretty straight forward, I just wasn't sure if anyone had any tips.
Thanks
I have a few questions about how to go about re-installing my engine after a rebuild. It's a 2000 xj 4.0, so it has the cali emissions 2 cats right under the header. The trans is still in place. I didn't pull it, nor do I have the room in my garage to put the trans and engine back in in one piece.
Because of how toght the engine compartment is, I'd love to be able to put the intake and exhaust manifold on the engine while it's on the stand, before it goes in. But if I do that will I be able to reach the two trans bellhousing bolts that go in from the front? And will it make it harder to align the trans and engine?
Also, should I leave the motor mounts off so theres more wiggle room, then get the engine and trans aligned and bolted together and then put the motor mounts in? This will bey first engine intall. The job itself seems pretty straight forward, I just wasn't sure if anyone had any tips.
Thanks
#2
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Do yourself a huge favor and install the intake and header before it goes in. You will need to insert the one trans bolt that the exhaust crosses by from the back. You will have to move the exhaust over to do this which is a pain but it is possible. It doesnt like to wiggle the direction you will need it to go. The one on the passengers side isnt bad. Yes, leave the motor mounts off. It will help greatly, especially so that once you mate the engine and trans together with the side bolts, you can lower the engine down and get to the 2 top trans bolts from the top side.
Honestly, it sounds like you got this. Its not a hard job but you will run in to minor snags along the way.
Honestly, it sounds like you got this. Its not a hard job but you will run in to minor snags along the way.
#3
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Year: 1989
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0
If this is an automatic, remember that you need to install the t/c into the trans first, and keep rotating it until it drops ALL the way in. There are two sets of splines that need to engage. There should be some from-to-back movement of the t/c before you bolt it back up to the flexplate. Unbolt the t/c from the flexplate prior to unbolting the bellhousing. DO NOT leave the t/c attached to the engine and try to stab it into the trans.
I also suggest getting a couple of longer side bellhousing bolts. Cut the heads off, bevel and put a screwdriver slot in the cut end with a grinder or cutoff wheel, and thread them into the engine block as guide pins. That makes it so much easier to line everything as you ease the engine/trans in place.
I also suggest getting a couple of longer side bellhousing bolts. Cut the heads off, bevel and put a screwdriver slot in the cut end with a grinder or cutoff wheel, and thread them into the engine block as guide pins. That makes it so much easier to line everything as you ease the engine/trans in place.
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Great. Thank you both for the quick replies. The TC is already sitting in place. I never removed it, and I did double check that it is still seated properly.
I like the idea of using longer screws as studs in the bellhousing to line everything up. I have a buddy that works on big rigs and that's a trick they use to line those trans up.
I like the idea of using longer screws as studs in the bellhousing to line everything up. I have a buddy that works on big rigs and that's a trick they use to line those trans up.
#5
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Year: 96
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
there is advantages/disadvantages for the stud/bolt method
I use studs for timing covers and sumps
#6
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What are everyone's thoughts on using the longer head bolts on the driver's side of the engine to anchor a chain for the hoist? I was thinking of running the chain to one of the head bolts that has threads sticking up, like the rear one used for the ground wire, and then using a few washers and a large nut. Would that be strong enough?
#7
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
What are everyone's thoughts on using the longer head bolts on the driver's side of the engine to anchor a chain for the hoist? I was thinking of running the chain to one of the head bolts that has threads sticking up, like the rear one used for the ground wire, and then using a few washers and a large nut. Would that be strong enough?
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#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Perfect. Thank you. I think I'll use one of the head bolts sticking up, and then the ac compressor bracket holes in the block on the other. That way I can stall the motor with the intake on. When i pulled the motor the head was off so I just ran a fee head bolts in and hooked the chain to those.
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