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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
I sure hope the PO didn't put something in the motor to quiet things up until he offed it.
As far as what to do if there is sludge bad under the valve cover? I'd clean as much of it out as I could by hand first plugging up ports to keep it from going down into the motor.. Then do the fresh oil/MMO combo changing it and the filter frequently.
Something like this. Try to clean as much as possible from above. Is he gonna get 100%. Maybe not. But its better than nothing
I would suggest adding some Marvel Mystery Oil but I would be tarred and feathered by this group if I did.
Hell no, that's great *****. Use it anytime I'm dealing with a car that's been sitting for several years. Pull the plugs and fill the cylinders with MMO & let it sit a couple days before trying to start it. Like magic.
Def change out filter. You can do a Napa gold 1515 as well. Oversized filters FTW.
As for the knock. Don't go crazy adding additives and expensive oil just yet. Pull the valve cover off. Inspect first. You def knocked crap loose but.you don't want it going to the wrong places. You may have to run reg conventional and do more frequent changes for a month or two and then go to something like rotella, Mobil etc. There's a worse case you'll have to pull the oil pan but start with the valve cover first. Noggin poke and see what you have to do to your girl
I've always heard that it was a bad idea to run conventional after running synthetic. Or is that just a myth?
Just remove your oil filler cap on the valve cover and look inside. You'll know if you've been had. This is easier (cheaper) than removing the valve cover (at least at first).
If he sees heavy sludge build up through the filler cap, well, what's the plan?
Looking under the oil filler cap sounds a lot easier than taking off the cover. I'll make sure to get photos once the sun comes up.
I've always heard that it was a bad idea to run conventional after running synthetic. Or is that just a myth?
It's typically said the other way around because it causes leaks. Other than that I have never heard a single valid reason. I even question that because I've never experienced it.
Is a flexbolt tightening an easy task? I'm more of a basic maintenance kind of guy than anything else. I'm sure I can find a walkthrough on here but things never seem to go as easy as it does in the walkthrough.
Its pretty easy, four bolts - 2 differing sizes. It costs nothing to check and cheap to repair - one tube of locktite. It may need it eventually. The only hindrance which could prevent access to one bolt is the exhaust pipe may be in the way.
Open it up and check the flex plate bolt by hand. If it comes loose by hand then you need something to keep it from coming loose via vibration; hence the locktite. To prevent the engine from turning, I used a screwdriver wedge between transmission housing and flex plate. Tighten to specs.
For a temporary filter, Microgard, O'Reilly's house brand, is made by WIX. I've read its equivalent to NAPA Silver. My rig also sat for awhile and a couple of oil changes and one Gunk chemical flush still didn't clean it all. I finally removed the oil pan and cleaned it yesterday (including installing a rear main seal). Still putting it back together but it had about 1/8" of sludge in the pan and hard deposits which I removed with a scrub pad.
Less work would be taking it to a shop and have a machine engine flush done. And if they remove the pan can check on the rod knock.
Lol, not at all. Some rotella and MMO mix is a really good one. I'm more worried of things loose in too much too fast. Rather just try and use oil to get the larger stuff out of possible first.
OP, take a picture of your valve cover when it's off. I can't wait to ser what it looks like
Yes same here sounds like he has a lot floating around already, I would wait for a while.
Originally Posted by EZEARL
I sure hope the PO didn't put something in the motor to quiet things up until he offed it.
As far as what to do if there is sludge bad under the valve cover? I'd clean as much of it out as I could by hand first plugging up ports to keep it from going down into the motor.. Then do the fresh oil/MMO combo changing it and the filter frequently.
That used to be done a lot when I was younger, people using some 90wt. gear lube to quiet things down. Same for a noisy differential just add saw dust to the heaviest gear lube, works OK for a few hundred mi.
Originally Posted by LittleRed94
I've always heard that it was a bad idea to run conventional after running synthetic. Or is that just a myth?
08-10-2015, 04:56 PM
