failed 'block test'
#1
failed 'block test'
well, today the cooling system was flushed and a new rad cap added. Noticed the water pump is brand new from previous owner. Did the engine 'block test' with a buddy who has a clue - it failed.
I ordered the haynes manual and will be researching here a whole lot more before going further. I don't want to go to the trouble of replacing the head gasket, getting the head machined (or new head) if there could be other major problems lurking.
fun fun
question now is - is it safe to drive at all ? no visible mixing fluids. If I prevent overheat is it safe to drive or should I just park it until I get this worked out ?
cheers
I ordered the haynes manual and will be researching here a whole lot more before going further. I don't want to go to the trouble of replacing the head gasket, getting the head machined (or new head) if there could be other major problems lurking.
fun fun
question now is - is it safe to drive at all ? no visible mixing fluids. If I prevent overheat is it safe to drive or should I just park it until I get this worked out ?
cheers
#4
#5
Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 243
Likes: 0
From: Tallahassee Florida
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
That's a good one assuming the cooling system is free from all air(bleed system) and all seals(thermostat,water pump,radiator,intake manifold) and hoses are in proper condition.
Just saying......I've seen them give wrong results.
Just saying......I've seen them give wrong results.
#6
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 5,817
Likes: 105
From: In the middle of Minnesota!
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Start with a compression test on all cylinders. The compression spec for the 4.0 is 120-150 psi, with no more than a 30 psi variation between cylinders.
#7
Ok... a compression check I can get done next week when my usual shop opens. But someone else mentioned a leak test. I've never even heard of that one to be honest. How is it better/different? Which should I get done ? Obviously I'm not wanting to spend too much cash lol
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#8
#9
Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 243
Likes: 0
From: Tallahassee Florida
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I used a kit from Autozone & it was positive so I go thinking I have a bad head or gasket & it turned out all I needed was a radiator, TS, water pump ect.....
People will also tell you there is NO WAY a head gasket can "leak oil' but my RENIX 4.0 does. There is a reason why but I won't go into that now other than to say there is a passage there for oil seepage usually right above where the dizzy cap is.
People will also tell you there is NO WAY a head gasket can "leak oil' but my RENIX 4.0 does. There is a reason why but I won't go into that now other than to say there is a passage there for oil seepage usually right above where the dizzy cap is.
#10
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 5,817
Likes: 105
From: In the middle of Minnesota!
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ok... a compression check I can get done next week when my usual shop opens. But someone else mentioned a leak test. I've never even heard of that one to be honest. How is it better/different? Which should I get done ? Obviously I'm not wanting to spend too much cash lol
I generally start with a compression test as it only takes a half hour and it often tells the story. But your call. Ask the technician at your shop for their opinion.
#11
My 88 was over heating, after reading all i could here this is what i did.....
new thermostat, new radiator, new water pump, new res bottle n cap. new hoses.
make SURE YOU BLEED THE AIR OUT OF THE BLOCK!!!!!!
one trick is to jack up the rear end of the truck.
never got hot again.
new thermostat, new radiator, new water pump, new res bottle n cap. new hoses.
make SURE YOU BLEED THE AIR OUT OF THE BLOCK!!!!!!
one trick is to jack up the rear end of the truck.
never got hot again.
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