Finally gonna get a head for my 99 4.0L
09-01-2011, 10:02 AM
#16
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Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0 L
Ok well thanks and yes everything you said makes sense to me. I guess the only thing to do is for me to get the old oil out and pull the oil pan to get a visual down there. If things look good ( no rust on anything ) and there isnt coolant in the oil pan I think at this time even though it would be best to do a rebuild I might just go ahead and clean what I can and just put the new head on and see how things go.
I think unless I have to do a complete rebuild I will just leave the lifters be rather than to disturb things that I likely do not have to at this point.
Right now I really just want to get this thing going for winter and I have other things I need to spend $$ on to get it up to snuff like tires and I know one of the brake lines is broken, probably brakes too and who knows what else. All this on my slave pay is a lot so I will be lucky to get it done before the snow fly's around here lol.Of course if there is more damage to the engine this might end up being a winter project.
Thanks for all your help I will keep updates in this post and ask questions as needed.
I think unless I have to do a complete rebuild I will just leave the lifters be rather than to disturb things that I likely do not have to at this point.
Right now I really just want to get this thing going for winter and I have other things I need to spend $$ on to get it up to snuff like tires and I know one of the brake lines is broken, probably brakes too and who knows what else. All this on my slave pay is a lot so I will be lucky to get it done before the snow fly's around here lol.Of course if there is more damage to the engine this might end up being a winter project.
Thanks for all your help I will keep updates in this post and ask questions as needed.
09-25-2011, 10:30 PM
#17
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
I need to find some exhaust/Intake manifold bolts any ideas where I can get them? The ones I see at the local auto parts stores dont seem to be like the ones that are on the engine already. I dont have a pic but the bolts I need have a very thick dished washer on them.I actually only need one I think but cant seem to find any.
I just looked on rock auto and the bolt kit they show just looks like regular bolts to me and nothing like what came stock and there dont seem to be any washers with them.Will the bolts work with out washers? I would think there is a good reason to have the deeply dished washers on the manifold.
I just looked on rock auto and the bolt kit they show just looks like regular bolts to me and nothing like what came stock and there dont seem to be any washers with them.Will the bolts work with out washers? I would think there is a good reason to have the deeply dished washers on the manifold.
Last edited by Spoonman; 09-25-2011 at 10:41 PM.
11-06-2011, 10:40 PM
#19
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Ok well I have this thing a bit more than half together.Yep finally got off of my butt and did some work on it.
I am taking a huge chance in that I did not have the head machined or anything( I know I am going to hear it big time for this).Winter is coming and I need a ride so Im cutting corners for now and just trying to get it together and hoping for the best.
The head is on and all torqued down,and the rockers etc are all in and tightened down as well as the valve cover.I did decide to take the exhaust manifold off so I can clean the gasket surface so that needs to go back on as well as the intake.Other than that it is just a matter of putting all the little stuff back and plugging it all back in.
I do still have to do some wiring since something chewed the hell out of some of the wires but Im going to do that last.
I never did check the main bearings or anything,but after draining the old oil there was hardly any water in it so I might be in the clear there.The oil in the old filter was kinda muddy though but I think I will be ok.
Im just trying to get through the winter with it and then I may consider a rebuild or crate engine.
Just an update to my super old and highly inactive thread
.
I am taking a huge chance in that I did not have the head machined or anything( I know I am going to hear it big time for this).Winter is coming and I need a ride so Im cutting corners for now and just trying to get it together and hoping for the best.
The head is on and all torqued down,and the rockers etc are all in and tightened down as well as the valve cover.I did decide to take the exhaust manifold off so I can clean the gasket surface so that needs to go back on as well as the intake.Other than that it is just a matter of putting all the little stuff back and plugging it all back in.
I do still have to do some wiring since something chewed the hell out of some of the wires but Im going to do that last.
I never did check the main bearings or anything,but after draining the old oil there was hardly any water in it so I might be in the clear there.The oil in the old filter was kinda muddy though but I think I will be ok.
Im just trying to get through the winter with it and then I may consider a rebuild or crate engine.
Just an update to my super old and highly inactive thread
.
Last edited by Spoonman; 11-07-2011 at 12:00 AM.
11-07-2011, 09:48 AM
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Year: 1988
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Engine: Straight 6
When you get ready to do a full rebuild consider a local rebuild shop especially if you don't have the tools or good location to do it. When I did my CJ about 12-years ago I pulled the engine and dropped it off along with the new cam I wanted installed and the custom valve cover. They had the thing finished in a week and the cost at the time was about $1,000 with a 3-year/30,000 mile warranty.
This would also work out well if you can't have the Jeep out of service for long since you could pick up a wrecking yard core, have it rebuilt and then install it over a weekend.
This would also work out well if you can't have the Jeep out of service for long since you could pick up a wrecking yard core, have it rebuilt and then install it over a weekend.
11-07-2011, 04:34 PM
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I just figure that I will have the machine work done since I obviously wouldn't have the right equipment to do that but I would probably do the assembly my self just for exp.
I dont think it will be very complicated.The only thing that still confuses me is how to figure for the proper main bearings but I will get it figured out.
I dont think it will be very complicated.The only thing that still confuses me is how to figure for the proper main bearings but I will get it figured out.
11-07-2011, 04:52 PM
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The simplest way to figure out main bearings is to use a product called Plastiguage. It's inexpensive and easy to get and use. Most automotive parts stores should carry it. Here's a link to their web site and instructions on how it's used: http://www.plastigaugeusa.com/how.html
You can also have the machine shop measure and order new bearings for you while they are taking care of the rebore.
Have your machine shop inspect the cam bearings as well. They may need to be replaced. This is something best left to a machine shop since it requires a special removal and installation tool which most shade tree mechanics don't have (I'm not sure if it's even available from the auto part stores which loan tools).
You can also have the machine shop measure and order new bearings for you while they are taking care of the rebore.
Have your machine shop inspect the cam bearings as well. They may need to be replaced. This is something best left to a machine shop since it requires a special removal and installation tool which most shade tree mechanics don't have (I'm not sure if it's even available from the auto part stores which loan tools).
11-07-2011, 05:27 PM
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Yea I understand how plastigauge is used and all.It isn't that part that confuses me its the selection of the right size bearing based on oil clearance that is a bit confusing.
I read something a while about it and it was pretty technical and seemed like a lot of work.Im the type of person though that over complicates things in my mind lol if you know what I mean,but when it comes down to doing it it usually works out fine.
If I do end up doing a rebuild I will probably try to do all that my self though like I said so I can get some exp. I have never gone that far into an engine so I really want to and I think the I6 is a pretty simple engine so it would be a perfect "first" for me.
I read something a while about it and it was pretty technical and seemed like a lot of work.Im the type of person though that over complicates things in my mind lol if you know what I mean,but when it comes down to doing it it usually works out fine.
If I do end up doing a rebuild I will probably try to do all that my self though like I said so I can get some exp. I have never gone that far into an engine so I really want to and I think the I6 is a pretty simple engine so it would be a perfect "first" for me
.
11-07-2011, 08:24 PM
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so what does it mean if no oil through the push rods?I assumed it wouldnt be turning the pump fast enough or something.I did use assembly lube on both ends of the push rods, rocker pivots and the valve ends so maybe the push rods are plugged up from that and will clear out once the engine is actually running?
OR ?!?!?!?!?!? Im screwed lol!
OR ?!?!?!?!?!? Im screwed lol!
11-07-2011, 09:57 PM
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I don't believe oil is meant to travel through the pushrods in a 4.0 (please correct me if I'm wrong). The friction points are bathed in oil.
Assembly lube will not plug up oil passages. It's formulated to be sticky and keep the wear surfaces lubed until oil begins flowing through the engine on initial start up. Once the regular oil is flowing it will simply wash the assembly lube off the part. All there is to worry about is changing the oil at a specified break in point (everyone seems to have a different idea of how many mile you should go before making the first oil change).
Assembly lube will not plug up oil passages. It's formulated to be sticky and keep the wear surfaces lubed until oil begins flowing through the engine on initial start up. Once the regular oil is flowing it will simply wash the assembly lube off the part. All there is to worry about is changing the oil at a specified break in point (everyone seems to have a different idea of how many mile you should go before making the first oil change).
11-08-2011, 09:32 AM
#28
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I just assumed that was the only way for oil to get to the top of the head.I guess when I finally fire it up,it wont take long for me to find out if oil is circulating or not .
.
11-08-2011, 09:39 AM
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Year: 1999
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I don't believe oil is meant to travel through the pushrods in a 4.0 (please correct me if I'm wrong). The friction points are bathed in oil.
Assembly lube will not plug up oil passages. It's formulated to be sticky and keep the wear surfaces lubed until oil begins flowing through the engine on initial start up. Once the regular oil is flowing it will simply wash the assembly lube off the part. All there is to worry about is changing the oil at a specified break in point (everyone seems to have a different idea of how many mile you should go before making the first oil change).
Assembly lube will not plug up oil passages. It's formulated to be sticky and keep the wear surfaces lubed until oil begins flowing through the engine on initial start up. Once the regular oil is flowing it will simply wash the assembly lube off the part. All there is to worry about is changing the oil at a specified break in point (everyone seems to have a different idea of how many mile you should go before making the first oil change).
I'm screwed!