Just bought my first Cherokee XJ. 1992, 4.0L 6cyl, automatic trans, 4x4, 2 door. 4x4 works perfectly, in high and low ranges. Engine runs excellent (as expected). Worked perfect until I got it home (literally!)

Just bought it, drove it home (approx. 30 miles), and when I pulled into my subdivision and drove down a ways, all of a sudden, the car won't shift out of first gear, and the check engine light came on. If I go to start it up again, the idiot light comes back on within a few seconds.

Trans fluid is dripping from the engine and trans gasket area. I put $40 of gas in it, and it is dripping gas from the tank--right where the top and bottom halves of the tank are welded (there's about 5/8 full tank according to the gauge).

I had NONE of these problems when I test drove the truck, and I rode it hard for test driving. I did notice on the way home, that it would not shift into 3rd gear unless I was moving faster than 50mph.

I consider myself mechanically inclined, and I've been searching for these issues--could be the TPS? Connections? Needs new trans filter? Engine to trans seal? I don't know where trans wiring is, I hear behind the dash there are some useful wires/connections? My first Cherokee

 

Sorry to say, but it sounds like you got screwed over. You'll probably need a new gas tank, fuel lines, you need to adjust your TV cable for the trans to shift at the right point, and you probably need to rip the trans out to fix the leak. If I were you, I'd replace all the seals on it, and go from there.

IF you can, take legal action against the seller. Sounds like a good court case to me.

 

 

Kick down cable adjustment is free and easy but does not explain the jeep not starting, TPS would affect shift points And no start. Only use OEM Jeep TPS, others have caused problems.
Kick down cable adjustment here (some PB Blaster may be needed to loosen the adjuster button):
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/free-quick-fix-41821/

Sure sounds like you need a new gas tank and I hope the tranny only needs a pan gasket.

Good Luck!

 

The truck starts up fine, seems to idle down fine. If you give it a quick burp or throttle it dips in revs before it picks up...

 

Ahhhh sorry, I re read your first post (I mistakenly thought it would not start).

Did you check ATF level?

Still the TPS seems possible for your problem but the kick down cable would be 1st on my list, because it's free.

 

fluid level is good. I do think the rear main seal between engine and trans is bad, as it leaks

 

"Trans fluid is dripping from the engine and trans gasket area"

so it's not dripping trans fluid? the rear main seal would drip engine oil not tranny fluid.

Many times the oil filter adaptor O-rings leak on the 4.0 and it looks like the rear main seal leaking.

 

Red trans fluid is what I see but I do also see some dark engine oil... but it is coming from here

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Ok, you are checking your ATF after driving till warm, parked on level surface in park and engine running. And the ATF level is good? If good you are leaking very little if any ATF.

Most of the time oil leaks in the area you showed are from the oil filter adaptor and the rear main seal gets mistakenly blamed. I suggest you search oil filter adaptor here on the forum for info and check the trans pan bolts, they should be 10 foot lbs torque (don't over tighten them). You may need a new trans pan gasket but check the bolts first.

 

Bed time for me. kick down cable adjustment, OEM Jeep TPS, oil filter adaptor o-rings (Dealership may be best for those too) and check tranny pan bolts. good night and good luck!

 

I found a "how to" for testing your TPS:
TPS

Physical Symptoms:

The engine loses power and is stalling. The engine will idle, but may die as soon as you press the gas pedal. When driving, it seems as if all power is gone. Sometimes speed maxes out around 25 mph, and it feels as if the transmission is failed or isn't shifting properly, if at all. You can be going 25mph down the road at 5,000 RPM's. If you quickly jump on the gas you might be able to get the transmission to shift into second, but it won’t shift properly by itself. Shifting manually, the transmission goes through all the gears.

TEST

You should have 5 volts going into the TPS. At idle, TPS output voltage must be greater than 200 millivolts. At wide open throttle (WOT), TPS output voltage must be less than 4.8 volts.. The best is to use an analog meter (not digital) to see if the transition from idle to WOT is smooth with no dead spots. With your meter set for volts, put the black probe on a good ground like your negative battery terminal. With the key on, engine not running, test with the red probe of your meter (install a paper clip into the back of the plug of the TPS) to see which wire has the 5 volts. One of the other wires should show .26V (or so). The other wire will be the ground and should show no voltage. Move the throttle and look for smooth meter response up to the 4.49 at WOT.

Perform the test procedure again and wiggle and/or tap on the TPS while you watch the meter. If you notice any flat spots or abrupt changes in the meter readings, replace the TPS.

 

First, pressure wash EVERYTHING! get as much oil, dirt and crud off the under chassis. Then inspect. Start there!

 

replaced the TPS and it works like a charm!! Shifts right, (3rd gear about 30mph), idles down right, no hesitation.

Now to fix the leaks. Gas and oil, then exhaust, tires... I need to find some really cheap tires and tire/wheels locally. They can even be used, but this makes me not want to sell the truck any more haha

 

good job,

search your local junk yards and pick and pulls (google them) for tires and wheels (craigs list too!)

junk yard search:

http://www.car-part.com/