2KMAXJ

Not sure why but my posts keep getting moderated

PatHenry

Strange - I wonder if Dumajones can shed some light on this - he's an admin.

I mean, it's not like you're talking about whether or not to use Rotella or anything crazy like that!
(This is sort of an inside reference - a regular poster was banned several months ago due to poor forum etiquette over a "what oil to use" discussion. If you're not using obscene language (which should be auto censored) or being rude (which you're obviously not) then it's strange that you're being moderated. This is not something I've heard of happening at all really (posts being moderated, I mean) in the year I've been frequenting this forum.)

Dumajones

Who is moderating your posts? and why would they need to moderate them?

Dumajones

Its not us...

2KMAXJ

Exactly, it just says your post will not be visible until it is approved by a moderator. It seems to happen when i write a long post

Jeepwalker

Look on the bright side. One nice thing about that law if you think about it, is suppliers continue to make affordable emission components for older cars/trucks that we can take advantage of to keep them running smooth. W/o that CA law cheap emission components for sure wouldn't be available 25 years after production .....or would be extremely expensive.

Oh, and it's brought pollution WAY down too (less asthma, cancer, cleaner water!!) Yeahhhh ...I like to drink cleaner water!! Go live in a REALLY polluted city for 6 months, where yer clothes get dirty in one afternoon from being outside, and you can't eat the fish out of the river (or even swim or wade in it b/c it's so contaminated with heavy metals) ....I bet it'll change your mind!! Everything's good until it isn't.

Dumajones

I will look around..Try to post without being on the VPN,, then try.

2KMAXJ

Ok so here is what i was gonna say

Drivers door is gonna need a weld at the hinge. i got some weather strip for the top as there is none and there is a gap i can see light through.
I got some ez outs for the screws and we will see how that goes. Gonna wait and order cables from XJWonders
Big first thing is tackling the rust, it's a good thing i have a daily driver so i can take my time and do it right.
I think i might start a build thread soon so i can keep track...lol
Plus all the obvious stuff: Ball joints, tie rod ends, track bar, u-joints maybe, hatch struts, oil/trans(maybe it shifts well)/tcase/diff fluid change, brakes front and rear and some normal stuff.

Jeepwalker

If I was you I'd start a new thread (just sayin')

Dumajones

Long post test..


Welcome to CF and the Jeep addiction..

I would check and or even change all fluids. It will give you a chance to get to know the Jeep.

Hows the radiator fluid looking? give that a good once over and flush if needed.
(look for nasty brown looking water) should be nice clean and green.

Flush the power steering fluid, I bet it never has been done.

let me give you a push into the addiction
Read this thread on how to upgrade the headlights for better lights. The XJ OEM headlight system is sub par. Just upgrading the wiring harness is a big improvement.
So for 26 or so bucks its a great upgrade.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/head...grades-151217/



__________________________________________________ _

I would look for a 97- 99

99 was the best year for the XJ I think.

The 2000 and 2001 had the bad 0331 head that cracked from a casting defect that can crack between cylinders 3-4., so try to stay away from those years. But dont let that get in the way.
If the 00 or 01 had good cooling maintenance over its years it should be ok. But it will crack in time or it wont. Its a real gamble with the 0331 head.
Mine cracked on the 2000, I took great care of it and it still went.
So I won the 0331 head crack lottery.
The 00-01 also had the coil rail not cap and rotor.
00-01 had the low pinion Dana 30, weaker then the high pinion Dana 30.
High pinion is on any 99 down XJ I think??
The 96 is a transition year which makes parts a pain in the butt to get. Some bits are from older XJs, some from newer, and some parts are actually unique just to 1996s.

Dumajones

I would get off the VPN ,, then try... I can write a book and post it.

2KMAXJ

Ok so it turns out that it's because i am new and posted a lot the system flagged it for spam...lol Outlaw is taking care of it tonight

Thanks for the headlight link, ill look into adding that. I wish i had done a bit more research on the model years before i snagged a 00. I could always swap in a 96-99 head no?

Dumajones

I have a 2000 and love it.. Like I said dont let the head get you frustrated..

You can get a new head and replace..

start to read from post 169. also Do research on the TUPY head for the 2000
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/00-...2/#post3520742


I went clear water Head,, it's been great for 6 years now.

dave1123

I vote twice on the Clearwater head. Mine's got almost 90K miles on it and it's perfect. When I bought it, it cost $455 complete with new valves and springs, including shipping BOTH ways (core return), and guaranteed against cracking for 60 months unless overheated. I got it in 4 days because they have a warehouse in NY. It weighs 7 lbs more than the stock 0331 head because it's got more metal in it. The valve geometry is the same so you don't need special pushrods or anything.

This is on my 2000 WJ with 245K miles on it now. I got lucky because when it cracked it cracked into an exhaust port and not into the valve area. Lots of steam and coolant dripping out of the tailpipe. I just bought a 2000 XJ and may have to go thru this again. It didn't stop me from buying it.

2KMAXJ

Thank you both for the "heads up" lol sorry had to. I appreciate the info, i had heard CW had bad BBB rep for customer service but their craftsmanship seems to trump that.

I am not at the point of needing a head yet but they will be my first choice when i do!